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  #1  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:12 PM
arcticathlon's Avatar
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Location: Richmond, Tx
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just got my 710k 240D!! need some help

ok i went to dallas to pick up my new 240D , and on the trip back i noticed some stuff. the seller stated that it lost some oil, and when i had driven it 300 miles, the oil pressure gauge suddenly went down to 1.5. i pulled over and poured more oil in the car, and noticed that the oil dipstick tube is loose. the rubber stopper worn out, and i can almost pull the oil dipstick metal tube out 2 inches. totally loose. that is where i must have been loosing most of the oil.

so... what part number would that rubber stopper be. i tried looking on fastlane and cant seem to locate it. the engine and trans run good, but the trans cant be shifted from 1st to 2nd too fast or it grinds. i read that some people put heavy motor oil in the trans instead of trans fluid. i am ready to do that, but want to know what exactly people used. 15w 40 synthetic?, rotella dino...

also the rear window is leaking when it rains and i need to get that fixed, will i just need to order some rubber gasket, or is it better to have it taken out and fixed by a shop.

the last thing i want some advice for is the steering. it drives really straight, and i dont think it needs an alignment for that reason. but the steering wheel is turned to about 1.5 o'clock (if it were a watch) if i want to drive straight. the steering is really loose, and i could turn it to 12 without it really moving much. now, my 300D was about the same way when i got it, and i had a friend adjust the steering box for me. that (and after an alignment) fixed the steering problem totally. now i have not checked the tierods and steering underneath, so i know some of those components will add to the loose steering.

one really odd thing is that the 240D has manual windows but has the 4 electric window buttons in the center console. tomorrow i will take that off and see if someone just put a newer wood colsole on there that had the buttons on it.

can someone also check the VIN for me and give me the rundown? thanks a ton you guys, and i hope to fix this thing up just as much as i have my 300D.

VIN:12312310170803

there is a WDB infront of it, but it is only shown on the title as 123...
when i register the car, is that something that i should have changed or just ignore.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:19 PM
Craig
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Wow, does it have 710K miles on the original engine?

It's fairly easy to tighten up the steering box by loosening the lock nut and turning the allen screw CCW, until it's about 1/4 turn from stopping. However, I would inspect all the steering components first. Have fun.
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:27 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 526
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticathlon
ok i went to dallas to pick up my new 240D , and on the trip back i noticed some stuff. the seller stated that it lost some oil, and when i had driven it 300 miles, the oil pressure gauge suddenly went down to 1.5. i pulled over and poured more oil in the car, and noticed that the oil dipstick tube is loose. the rubber stopper worn out, and i can almost pull the oil dipstick metal tube out 2 inches. totally loose. that is where i must have been loosing most of the oil.

so... what part number would that rubber stopper be. i tried looking on fastlane and cant seem to locate it. the engine and trans run good, but the trans cant be shifted from 1st to 2nd too fast or it grinds. i read that some people put heavy motor oil in the trans instead of trans fluid. i am ready to do that, but want to know what exactly people used. 15w 40 synthetic?, rotella dino...

also the rear window is leaking when it rains and i need to get that fixed, will i just need to order some rubber gasket, or is it better to have it taken out and fixed by a shop.

the last thing i want some advice for is the steering. it drives really straight, and i dont think it needs an alignment for that reason. but the steering wheel is turned to about 1.5 o'clock (if it were a watch) if i want to drive straight. the steering is really loose, and i could turn it to 12 without it really moving much. now, my 300D was about the same way when i got it, and i had a friend adjust the steering box for me. that (and after an alignment) fixed the steering problem totally. now i have not checked the tierods and steering underneath, so i know some of those components will add to the loose steering.

one really odd thing is that the 240D has manual windows but has the 4 electric window buttons in the center console. tomorrow i will take that off and see if someone just put a newer wood colsole on there that had the buttons on it.

can someone also check the VIN for me and give me the rundown? thanks a ton you guys, and i hope to fix this thing up just as much as i have my 300D.

VIN:12312310170803

there is a WDB infront of it, but it is only shown on the title as 123...
when i register the car, is that something that i should have changed or just ignore.
on the steering wheel, i wont be surprised if it has 710 K miles on it. try to turn the allen bolt on top of the steering gearbox clockwise and see if it improves but i doubt it, it will be just harder to drive straight and make minor turn adjustments to keep it straight @ 50 - 70 MPH. been there already, end up swapping gearbox from the slavage yard.
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  #4  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:38 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 992
driving

well, the reason our steering wheels always seem cocked is that today all the roads are capped.... so when your driving down the interstate on any 2 lane road... the road is like a hill....Its not like the old days when you could let go of the steering wheel and watch a car drive straight.... and tell if it is in alignment... today a 2 lane road is slanted up to a peak so if your in the right lane your always holding your wheel to the left and if your in the left lane your always turning your wheel to the right.... i always think its something wrong with my car as well when i look down and dont see the center of the steering wheel level...
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  #5  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:40 PM
Ara T.'s Avatar
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Location: Santa Rosa, CA
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I dont know about that. I never have to keep my steering wheel cocked to the 1 o clock position to go straight, maybe on an occasional really ****ty road.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:52 PM
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arc,

Are U going for a million miles?

P E H
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:52 PM
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just watch

just watch the next time your driving down the interstate and he was...

unless where you live they still have the old concrete interstates...
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  #8  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:58 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueranger
just watch the next time your driving down the interstate and he was...

unless where you live they still have the old concrete interstates...
Mine did that too, until I got an alignment and adjusted the steering box. How much free play do you have in the steering wheel?
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  #9  
Old 05-18-2006, 12:32 AM
arcticathlon's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Richmond, Tx
Posts: 1,129
Quote:
Mine did that too, until I got an alignment and adjusted the steering box. How much free play do you have in the steering wheel?
i have about 2 hours worth of play.

yes a million miles would be cool, but i now have 2 mercedes diesels that will have to share my driving. i suspect that my 300D will see most of the driving though. so it might take me ages to get to 1 million miles.

blueranger your posts are totally useless, stop waisting bandwidth.
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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Last edited by arcticathlon; 05-18-2006 at 12:39 AM.
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  #10  
Old 05-18-2006, 12:49 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 992
well

well, i love you too....

I decide if I need an alignment by tire wear rather than if my steering wheel is a bit cocked.... but your the expert and i difer to your expertese.
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  #11  
Old 05-18-2006, 01:20 AM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueranger
well, i love you too....

I decide if I need an alignment by tire wear rather than if my steering wheel is a bit cocked.... but your the expert and i difer to your expertese.
You might want to defer to spellcheck.....
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #12  
Old 05-18-2006, 01:24 AM
dunl's Avatar
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Location: Sylvan Lake, Alberta,CANADA (1.5 hr from Calgary)
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Here, check the vin yourself ...just put "wdb" in front of it. Doesn't give you everything, but some good info.

http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2006, 01:40 AM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticathlon
blueranger your posts are totally useless, stop waisting bandwidth.
It pains me very much to say it, but... He is part right.

It's called "Road crown". All it's for is to help keep the road clear of water during rain storms. Link 1 Link 2
The degree of road crown depends greatly on age of the road and climate. Dry places usually have little/none. Wet and warm places usually have large crown. Cold places (Where snow is common) have little, but still some.
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  #14  
Old 05-18-2006, 03:03 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CA... No. of S.F.
Posts: 890
I have an 1980 240D & a 300D and.........

I had to replace the rear window rubber weather seal on both cars... a common problem given the 25+ years it has had to dry out and crack.
My advice is to have glass shop do the work. I just had the front windshield and seal replaced new, and the rear window replaced after I had removed, cleaned and put the new seal on it... total cost ~$250.00... and this is a California price! So if they had done everything it would have been only $300-$350.00. Make sure to have them check for any signs of rust and to apply rust preventive primer where necessary... something a good shop should do automatically!
Sam
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  #15  
Old 05-18-2006, 03:10 AM
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Location: Sunny San Diego
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Jeez, can't we all just... get along?
apparently not.......

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