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  #16  
Old 05-26-2006, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL
I second to chech the fuel lever, mine was bad and was keeping me from starting the SDL.

Thanks
David


Happened here too!

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  #17  
Old 05-26-2006, 05:00 PM
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My 115/300d had the same problem. It also had a very slight fuel leak which turned out to be a leaking fuel delivery valve o-ring. Replaced the seals and no more problem.

If your fuel delivery seal/s are bad you can see them leak by pumping the priming pump and watching the top of the IP where the injection lines go in to the pump body. If you see the slightest glisten of fuel there then you have a leaking seal. It is a one hour job to replace them all. They cost about $3 each. I know, it is hightway robbery, but then they have them and you want them. Ain't capitalism great?
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2006, 04:58 AM
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Mines was a converted diesel. I found out the Vac line was reversed, so the Vacuum was holding the diaphragm( engine shut off ) , preventing her to start. I un-plug the vac line to end of IP, it fires up like nothing.

Or pump the brake a few times to bleed off the vac.
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  #19  
Old 05-27-2006, 09:10 AM
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Why would any of these issues not be a problem when the car is cold? And only exist when it is hot?

Would it not leak when cold?
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2006, 08:24 PM
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If the car is turning over the starter is fine. Since he didn't mention the car is not turning over we must assume it is.

At this point, maybe its time to find a good shop and take her in.
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  #21  
Old 06-21-2006, 02:53 PM
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Problem continues, and good shop...

is stumped too. So Aggravating! The car runs so well, and starts so easily when cold, it just makes you want to curse in German. BTW, battery is new, seals replaced, starter turns with plenty of gusto. I have noticed a couple other strange things that might give a clue:

When it is in the no start condition, the first turn of the key gives you the impression that it is about to run. Runs for about 1-2 seconds, then will not accept throttle. Dies.
When in no start condition, the small gasps at running produce some wisps of white smoke. First thought, water in fuel? Bad fuel? Dropped a full bottle of purge in it this AM, but only been a few miles (it pulled the same stunt about 3 hours ago).
If you shut her down after getting the operating temp way up, you can immediately try for a restart and it will start right up. Coincidence? Just unburned fuel thats helping it?
I have not replaced the glow plugs. Doubt that's it. Don't see how it would start so easily when cold, but....
Is my next step the pump? My good shop has a good used one we're willing to try.
Thank you for any help you can offer. This is a nice old SDL that is being unused because we can't trust it.
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  #22  
Old 06-21-2006, 03:44 PM
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I would not contemplate subbing the pump yet. Still sounds like losing it's prime when hot. Maybe try clamping the fuel line off when hot as soon as you turn engine off and letting it sit and see if it fires say five minutes later. Might give you some indication. The other thought is the return fuel valve on the pump when pretty warm might not be totally closing or sticking a little when hot. I think basically the same test. Clamp off return line just as car is stopped and remove clamp just a second before trying to restart. Cost nothing to do either test and quick. One of a few other components that might be expanding with heat and letting air in is the fuel filter holder. Now if it is really difficult get the car hot. Shut off and pour cold water over one thing at a time. Then try to restart after car has sat the usual time it takes to not start. If it does not fire up cool another component. . If you do it right it may reveal where the thermal problem is. You have stated when everything is cold it starts right up. All you are doing is duplicating the cold condition one item at a time. Freeze spray available at electronics stores is also another possible tool to try localise the item. Much less messey and better control of what you are cooling down. Plus it really pulls down a components temperature fast. In a way thermal things are pretty easy to locate sometimes when approached properly.
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  #23  
Old 06-21-2006, 05:41 PM
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Remove fuel inlet hose from IP. Stick on your own (5/16 clear I think should do it) and lead it to a bottle of fuel, suspend the bottle way up on the hood as high as possible. Do this when the engine is hot when you are expecting it not to start. Lets see if gravity helps.

It could be the lift pump, I'd be surprised if its the IP. You pulled vacuum on the shut off valve and made sure that was working right?

I don't know how to inspect the lift pump, I suspect it is similer to a fuel pump on a little Yanmar or a Ford/Chevy V8. Ie their is a rubber diaphram that gets old and cracks. They do go bad on Yanmar diesels and usualy they won't start or lack power.
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  #24  
Old 07-17-2007, 08:12 PM
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Hot start

I suffered with same problem for almost 2 years. I could start the car hot only by pouring cool water over the IP and fuel filter. Eventually I did notice a tiny air bubble moving through the fuel line every 10 seconds or so while engine was running normally. Replacing the flexible fuel lines in engine compartment solved the problem. Apparently even a tiny leak is enough to lose prime after 20 minutes. Why it would easily start cold with that condition is beyond me. But I no longer have to think about it, either!
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  #25  
Old 06-03-2009, 09:06 PM
seth urbanczyk
 
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my 350 sdl started in warm weather and i put it in reverse and it died. i kept starting it until my battery ran down. got on here and found that there was a vacuum and i opened my diesel fuel cap and let out the air jumped it and it stayed running just fine. good stuff. thanks guys
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  #26  
Old 06-04-2009, 06:05 PM
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how hot is it running at op temp? if the engine runs hot (as mine did) it would be a real pain to restart as the d2 was vaporizing in the line. i run a wvo kit though, and have d2 sitting at the billet valve for as long as i drive (heating up). ive found if my temp needle passes 105 the d2 vaporizes. this is 1 reason why it draws much more fuel than needed and returns back to tank. perhaps the fuel thermostat is not working right, and is sending d2 to the heater all the time instead of only when really cold out. unless you live in the artic, that fuel heater is not needed and could be easily bypassed to see if that helped (or at least feel the lines going to it to make sure its not pumping d2 up the heater when it shouldnt be)

just a thought...
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  #27  
Old 06-04-2009, 07:37 PM
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Having a similar problem with my 1983 300SD. At this point, all I know is it has something to do with the transmission. Starts fine from cold, usually won't start when warm unless it sits a few hours. Every so often it *will* start hot, if I crank for ~2 minutes, then stop and wait a minute, then crank again. Having this problem while trying to simultaneous unravel my shifting problem, isn't much fun at all.

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