73 300d - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

imagesinthewind · #1 06-01-2006, 02:19 PM

I have the chance to get a 115 for about $400.
It's got some issues, namely it idles fine but doesn't want to
go more than 20mph. It's said to have a knocking sound at around
3000rpms.
Seller says
"My hunch is that it's something in the fuel
delivery, I had her running a year ago and it sounded fine at idle - no
unusual knocks etc. It sounded really bad when you tried to go higher
than say 3000 rpm's, almost like valve float on a gas engine or maybe
rod's knocking, but I would think that if was rod bearings you would
here it at idle. It didn't smoke more than usual once it warmed up so I
think the compression is good."

Anyone care to give their opines as too what I may be getting myself into?

Thanks!

coldwar · #2 06-01-2006, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imagesinthewind

I have the chance to get a 115 for about $400.
It's got some issues, namely it idles fine but doesn't want to
go more than 20mph. It's said to have a knocking sound at around
3000rpms.
Seller says
"My hunch is that it's something in the fuel
delivery, I had her running a year ago and it sounded fine at idle - no
unusual knocks etc. It sounded really bad when you tried to go higher
than say 3000 rpm's, almost like valve float on a gas engine or maybe
rod's knocking, but I would think that if was rod bearings you would
here it at idle. It didn't smoke more than usual once it warmed up so I
think the compression is good."

Anyone care to give their opines as too what I may be getting myself into?

Thanks!

First off- I think the W115 years for the 300D were only '74 to '76, so that seems a little strange.

If it won't go more than 20 mph that could simply be the fuel filter severely plugged up- you could check it real quick by simply removing the cartridge and driving it around the block (don't go too far without filter). Also could be due to old fuel. It does have a shelf life. Have you heard the knock for yourself? More info needed I expect for forum people to give you a better opinion.

Dave
1976 300D Daily Driver
1970 Euro 200 Parts
1969 Euro 280S Parts
1990 VW Jetta Dead
1998 Cavalier Wifemobile

sailor15015 · #3 06-01-2006, 02:40 PM

What style motor does that car have? Is it a n/a OM617, or did those come later? If the rest of the car is in pretty good shape, you might get away with a heck of a deal. I'm doing the same thing right now. A coworker's family memeber is moving and selling me their 300D for $200. I haven't even seen the thing yet but it runs and I wouldn't mind sinking a grand or two in it over a couple of years to get another good running car. Spreading out the cost like that makes it seem like less.

I'd say if the rest is in good shape, go for it. This forum can help you with the engine problems.

imagesinthewind · #4 06-01-2006, 07:42 PM

Sorry, I just assumed by looking the pics of the car that it's a 115.
Oh and I was wrong about the car altogether.
It's a 1973 220D with an engine from a 240D in it.
I was having a blonde moment there.

I don't know how to post pics, sorry, or I would.
It's white with red interior that the seller says is in good but no imacculate
condition. We're just looking for something to work on over time but would
like it to run in the first place.

BobK · #5 06-01-2006, 08:21 PM

Well, go take a good look at it. It sounds like a fun project if not in too bad of shape. You already have diesel experience and since it would not be your only car, you can take a bit more time to do things right. if it runs but won't go very fast, it sure sounds like fuel (or maybe a birds nest in the air intake).
both are fixable without too much cost or effort. On the fuel side, worst would be bio-crude in the tank. Fixable, but you will go through a bunch of little filters. 115s had trouble with rust so make sure it isn't too far gone. Look over everything. Even if you can only go 20mph, you should be able to get a good idea of the condition of most of the systems..exhaust, tires, driveline, brakes, electrical and such. I don't know anything about 220 to 240 motor swaps. Someone else will have to chime in about that. For $400, you probably can't lose too much even in worst case.

JimmyL · #6 06-01-2006, 10:25 PM

Heck Ginny, for $400 bucks why not? Just plow straight ahead if it isn't a rust bucket.
You have wanted something in that body style since the one you almost got from ebay, so go get it!

t walgamuth · #7 06-01-2006, 10:38 PM

a 220 has a 390 rear i think, so if the 240 motor is running well, it will be pretty quick., well, you know for a 220 or 240.

tom w

ottothegreat · #8 06-01-2006, 10:50 PM

buy it ,and if it ends up sucking you can get rid of the parts and make a few bucks.

imagesinthewind · #9 06-02-2006, 05:10 PM

DH and I will go look it over tonight.
Seller says that it started right up after a battery charge.
Not bad for sitting for two years. He topped up the brake fluid with needs bled through, the stearing squeaks on hard turns, could be low fluid, still making the knocking sound, will get to hear it today.
Anyone got a guess as to what the knocking could be?
Seller says maybe rod bearings? Is that $ or $$$?
Can it be fixed in the driveway?
We'll have to get it towed home if we buy it, the breaks are VERY soft.

Will have to do an oil change, prolly change out ALL fluids, check brakes and bleed. Also all fuel filters, and at least pull and clean the tank filter (does the 220D have a tank filter?).

Should be a fun project, when I was 21 I learned a lot about cars by rebuilding a Fiat Spider Convertable. I LOVED that car! Redid the entire break system (spent many a day in Dallas junk yards looking for parts), the fuel system and electrical system. I have engine experience, but only on the gassers, VW Bugs and the FIAT. Don't have much diesel experience. Hope you'll all chip in and give ideas, etc. DH has only changed oil in his life. . .

BobK · #10 06-02-2006, 10:53 PM

If the brakes feel bad, you may well be looking at a lot of brake work. Not too expensive I would think, just a lot of work. I would start by doing a pressure bleed on the brake system and then go from there depending on how well/straight it seems to stop (and if ya get any leaks).
Wonder if the knocking could be the vacuum pump? if it is a rod knocking, it would be big time time/$$$. But I would really expect it to be loud at idle too.
I believe the tank does have a strainer. <$25 I think including O-ring.
Fiat Spyder? OMG. In Cincy, those things just disappear on their own, right before your eyes. We use a bit of salt here.

imagesinthewind · #11 06-02-2006, 11:17 PM

Yep, I'm from Cleveland, living in Denver.
LOADS of salt in the old O HI O!

Am passing on the car, too much work, even for a cheap car!