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  #31  
Old 06-06-2006, 12:44 AM
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everyone

everyone has an opinion,
Up in the technical section of this forum the guys are more adventrous and will jump in and talk head gasket with you... my last head gasket was done with 3 or so guys who were also doing them....

Most of the guys down here in the diesel section are a different breed, and there more inclined to send you to the shop rather than DIY....

Many of these guys in this forum are using the Mercedes coolant, and they would tell you to replace everything.... I have even had them say replace pistons.... (Pistons cost about 800 bucks and an oil pump is about 500 bucks) but folks will tell you to replace these as well....

Its ok to just replace a head gasket... wait till you have oil in your water or water in your oil....

the manual says its ok to reuse the head bolts as long as they measure up...
and they only give one measurement and that is length...

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  #32  
Old 06-06-2006, 12:47 AM
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cylinder

the headgasket set for my w126 is 58 bucks here at fastlane...
and it does not include head bolts... you can buy head bolts for about 4 bucks each...so if you need 1 or a set you can get what you need...

I would not spend the extra 40 bucks...its unecassary
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  #33  
Old 06-06-2006, 12:52 AM
John Holmes III
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That may be the case for a OM617. It's just that some more modern cars cars use torque to yield head bolts, they are designed to be used once, like a headgasket.
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  #34  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueranger
the headgasket set for my w126 is 58 bucks here at fastlane...
and it does not include head bolts... you can buy head bolts for about 4 bucks each...so if you need 1 or a set you can get what you need...

I would not spend the extra 40 bucks...its unecassary
This started as a headgasket thread, see this:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/123918-why-do-head-gaskets-fail-post890558.html#post890558

And let me add my opinion on headgaskets.
If you go to the trouble of removing the head don't jump up and buy some aftermarket gasket set. Use only a Victor Reinz on this engine. They don't come w/ the bolts, and yes its possible to reuse a bolt but I don't. In Upper Slobovia I'm sure they reuse them but hey you're going to be really let down if one snaps off on you!
And if you don't have the shop manual or a copy of the steps on removing the bolts in the first place - DONT START THIS JOB or you will lose the camshaft. This isn't a 617
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  #35  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:35 AM
John Holmes III
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Right on the mark, it's NOT a 617.
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  #36  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:44 AM
John Holmes III
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[QUOTE=blueranger]everyone has an opinion,

Most of the guys down here in the diesel section are a different breed, and there more inclined to send you to the shop rather than DIY....

QUOTE]

I know my limitations. I have no problem replacing the head gasket on a 1945 Farmall tractor, or a 1977 Alfa Romeo(think of the movie"The Graduate"), and even then I am very picky about part quality/brand and the proper procedure. I have seen too many basket case cars because someone just started tearing things apart without a shop manual.
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  #37  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:49 AM
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Okay, quick newb question here.

I need a good, accurate, and informative repair manual for my 1987 300D w124 603. Can somebody point me in the right direction? I would appreciate it. Thanks!
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  #38  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:54 AM
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http://mb.braingears.com

You don't need special tools to pull a 603 head. The only thing you might not have is the 8mm or 10mm hex tip socket which as mentioned you can get at any auto parts store for $10. Other tools are useful, but not absolutely necessary.

Head bolt sequence is critical, particularly the head bolts that hold the cam towers. Some versions of the factory service manual are misleading in what they describe as shaded. You'll know when you see the section of the manual.

For the purpose of replacing a head gasket the Haynes W124 manual is sufficient. It's a UK publication available in the US but it doesn't cover US models specifically.

Sixto

Last edited by sixto; 06-06-2006 at 02:04 AM.
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  #39  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:56 AM
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The manual describes a length check for head bolts. If you find that a head bolt has malformed or corroded threads, don't take the chance even if it's within the length spec. Reusing head bolts that are within spec and look good is up to you.

Sixto
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  #40  
Old 06-06-2006, 02:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dufflespank
Wait, I'm a newbie. I never said that I had worked on diesels for 30 years. Or am I misreading...?
My point was that I don't know enough about you to know whether this job is something you can handle on your own. I'm not suggesting you post your biography but we kinda get to know each other virtually and we develop a feel for each other's capabilities. That sounds deranged but what do you expect from a bunch of gearheads who believe their SS numbers begin with WDBAB33...?

And the point about seasoned techs seeking advise is that techs know their limitations in these matters better than newbies do. Consider the degree of caution (or hubris) that's acceptable to your situation. How long can you afford to be without this car? How much money do you have to bail yourself out if something goes wrong?

Sixto
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  #41  
Old 06-06-2006, 04:20 AM
Tabor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85chedeng300D
if you're planning of pulling the head off to replace a leaking head gasket, if i were you, i might as well rebuild the whole engine while i'm at it. fix all the leaks. new gaskets, seals, rings, bearings, timing chain and chain guides and tensioners etc. etc. ... you're going to take the engine apart anyway so don't halfa$$ it! FIX it right and don't repair it! its going to cost time, labor and $$$$$$$$. by doing it right, it will pay-off on the next 10 or even another 20 trouble free engine years. do it if you're planning to keep the car for the rest of your life.


It is entirely resonable for a head to need a rebuild after as little as 125K miles. It is entirely unresonable for a block to need a rebuild after that amount of time. The people I hang out with figure one head rebuild between each full rebuild.

PS- If I have a head off, for any reason, I take it to the machine shop. And I tell them "fix what needs fixing."
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  #42  
Old 06-06-2006, 04:24 AM
Tabor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueranger
forget about the leaky head gasket.....

if its just leaking on the outside then dont worry about it until you begin
to see water in the oil... or oil in the coolant..... it may go another 3 or 4 years that way....just keep an eye on it... and be vigilant....
+1

Unless it leaks just a little oil into the coolant or vice-versa. I assume it isn't leaking exhaust gasses into either or the shop should have told you.
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  #43  
Old 06-06-2006, 01:08 PM
John Holmes III
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Coolant mixed into the oil, even in small amounts, forms a mild acid that attacks the rod and main bearings. Giving them a darkened color. Most of the time, when a engine fails soon after a cylinder head job, it's because coolant got into the oil when the head was removed.
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  #44  
Old 06-06-2006, 08:53 PM
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Ok lets start again. What are the symptoms of this "headgasket leak"? Is coolant mixing with oil?

A lot of them weep a little bit around the timing chain. (the front). Mine has just enough to make the joint dirty, I spend a fortune on my car every year and its is still at the bottom of my list.

So if its just a bit of an oil leak, forget about it for now. Get your money together and learn a bit and in a few months tackle it if you want to. I'd budget between $500-$1k for this job if you do it yourself. The gasket set alone is like $200. Figure a new set of head bolts, and you would be silly not to roll on a new TC and tensioner, also a few guides but those are cheap.

This isn't a 617 guys, its a different animal please remember that. Don't talk about rebuilding a 603 unless you have $5k in your hand. Pistons alone are $1,500. A complete rebuild is a $6k-$8k project. Just a major head job alone is $3k.

For starters go to MBUSA website and purchase a 603 service CD. It has all the procedures you will need to remove the head.
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  #45  
Old 06-07-2006, 12:03 AM
Tabor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Holmes III
Most of the time, when a engine fails soon after a cylinder head job, it's because coolant got into the oil when the head was removed.
I always change the oil immediately after changing the head gasket and then again in ~100 miles. YMMV

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