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  #16  
Old 06-07-2006, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
well....belts yes. bolts no.

you're kidding, right?

tom w
About the belts putting stress on the pulley (bolts) if they are tightened too much?

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  #17  
Old 06-07-2006, 09:03 PM
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When I do the belts I just tighten them till they're not floppy, then a bit more, and I test it, if they slip/there's a problem then I do it a bit more at a time till no slipping, then I leave it alone, leaving as little stress on the pulley as possible.
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'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2009, 04:31 PM
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Answer

Stick with #5..
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2009, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor View Post
I have had the large main bolt break on me 3 times. Those six little bolts had nothing to do with it. The three times that it was repaired, it was done so by a professional MB mechanic, and yes, he used a torque wrench and torqued everything to its specification. After the third repair was done, I decided to get a rebuilt engine, since the slots in the crank got damaged to the point to where the last repair wasn't going to last long at all.

So, I suppose if you can't be stopped, you can make sure that the six bolts are not ready to fall out, since if they do, you loose your belts.
And maybe some day (after having had sufficient amounts of beer) I might do the same...However, I sure as all hell won't touch that big bolt - No way Jose - I'll sell the car first.

Did the MB Mechanic have any Ideas as to what cused the failure/s.
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  #20  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:17 PM
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I just did this all on my dad's '83 SD....we had to pull the pulleys and vibration disc to get at the pin for the chain tensioner. I put the big main bolt back in and torqued it to about 220ft/lbs or so.....and the smaller M8x30 bolts were replaced with a new set from the dealer, the new ones are 10.9 hardness....old were 8.8. I used blue locktite in the reinstall, and torqued them to 25nm like it says in the FSM.

Its not *that* scary....taking off the camshaft sprocket and chain/tensioner and such, is scary! And I did all of that too, successfully. The engine was fired up today and runs great.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #21  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:30 PM
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I was going through my previous owner's records when I purchased my car and I noticed this very thing happened to my car on the previous owner; all the crank pulley bolts sheared off. Needless to say, I'd stick with #5....and that's why I have AAA.
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  #22  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph_Conrad View Post
I was going through my previous owner's records when I purchased my car and I noticed this very thing happened to my car on the previous owner; all the crank pulley bolts sheared off. Needless to say, I'd stick with #5....and that's why I have AAA.
Post #5 relates to a leaking front seal; that is an issue totally unrelated to loose/sheared pulley bolts. Given the magnitude of the problem, I think every 616/617 engine owner would be well advised to check the pulley bolts for tightness periodically.

Sudden loss of power steering might call for more than AAA. Life insurance comes to mind.
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  #23  
Old 12-02-2009, 09:13 PM
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Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerty View Post
Post #5 relates to a leaking front seal; that is an issue totally unrelated to loose/sheared pulley bolts. Given the magnitude of the problem, I think every 616/617 engine owner would be well advised to check the pulley bolts for tightness periodically.

Sudden loss of power steering might call for more than AAA. Life insurance comes to mind.
Post #1
choice #5) nothing

The original bolts are generally OK until disturbed..
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  #24  
Old 12-03-2009, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post

The original bolts are generally OK until disturbed..
Let's stipulate to that theory. Now, how does the typical owner of a 25-30 year-old (more or less) vehicle determine whether said bolts have ever been disturbed?
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2009, 12:58 AM
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Here's a picture of one of ours, I took this 2 days ago while working on a timing chain tensioner/slide rail/guides replacement.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #26  
Old 12-03-2009, 03:01 PM
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I now check once a year on all vehicles.Something else too is check intake and exhaust manifold bolts.When I got my SD each manifold bolt needed one complete turn.

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