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  #1  
Old 06-11-2006, 05:26 PM
cewyattjr's Avatar
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Rusted floors

Okay, so I should have noticed this earlier, but my recently-purchased 240d has rusted floorboards right in front of the rear passenger seat. In fact on one side you can see the ground.

Best solution? 1) Sell car for really cheap; 2) Go to body shop and get plates welded on; Thoughts?

thanks!

Chuck
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  #2  
Old 06-11-2006, 05:38 PM
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Depends on the shape of the engine and the rest of the car. If you can get another couple of years worth of miles out of it, weld it.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2006, 05:46 PM
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Seems to me that the engine is pretty good. Lots of interior cosmetic stuff, but really everything is pretty functional. Any idea what I could expect to pay at a welding shop to have some plates put on? $1000? less?
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  #4  
Old 06-11-2006, 07:03 PM
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i have repaired a couple of 240s with heavy guage aluminum installed with sheet metal screws and or pop rivits. i make a pattern from thin cardboard and take it to the sheet metal shop and have them bend the thickest aluminum they can bend. it is a little less than 1/8" thick. then i butter all around the joints so it is all water proof. between the steel and al too. first though i cut all the rusty metal out and rust bind whatever is rusty and left. it will last as long as you want it to. the two tricky places are under the seat mount and at the place the seat belt anchors. these need particular care to not weaken. multiple layers if needed.

welding into these cars with the thick rubberized undercoating would be pretty tricky. and since they arent ever going to be collectable not worth the expense, unless you can do it yourself and just want to., you know for the love of it.

tom w
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  #5  
Old 06-11-2006, 07:05 PM
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What causes the rust in that area? Just a poor design, or is it from a leak somewhere?
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  #6  
Old 06-11-2006, 07:55 PM
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leaky windshield seals also sometimes leaks in the heating air intake. the windshield is to be considered the first suspect though.

i usually caulk with silicone . black. you need to clean the joint betweent the glass and rubber with something like a plastic dinner spoon picnic style. i usually grind it a little to make a hook. then clean with alcohol and caulk. the joint between the glass and rubber. if that doesnt solve it you can slip the nose under the rubber betweent the rubber and body and do it too.

the rear will also leak. this will cause rust over the fender lip and in the bottom of the trunk wells.

good luck.

100% silicone only.

tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 06-11-2006, 08:18 PM
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My 240D had a similar problem, but the rust was well hidden under all that insulation and it probably wasn't as extensive as yours. Here's my older thread on this:
The consequences of interior water leaks

As to the sources of interior water leaks in the W123 chassis, these are probably the most common:
* Windshield and rear window seals (silicone works well here)
* Rubber boots in door jambs
* Rust holes behind battery and in the hood spring pockets
* Truck lid seal causing water to puddle up in the trunk pockets

When checking these items it's a good idea to clear all the drains that you come across, especially the ones in the hood spring and trunk pockets.
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2006, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselAddict

As to the sources of interior water leaks in the W123 chassis, these are probably the most common:
* Windshield and rear window seals (silicone works well here)
* Rubber boots in door jambs
* Rust holes behind battery and in the hood spring pockets
* Truck lid seal causing water to puddle up in the trunk pockets

Don't forget sunroof drains, providing your car has one.....
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2006, 08:18 PM
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Massachusetts must be the road salt capital of the world, so I'm sure that has a lot to do with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
i have repaired a couple of 240s with heavy guage aluminum installed with sheet metal screws and or pop rivits. i make a pattern from thin cardboard and take it to the sheet metal shop and have them bend the thickest aluminum they can bend. it is a little less than 1/8" thick. then i butter all around the joints so it is all water proof. between the steel and al too. first though i cut all the rusty metal out and rust bind whatever is rusty and left. it will last as long as you want it to. the two tricky places are under the seat mount and at the place the seat belt anchors. these need particular care to not weaken. multiple layers if needed.

welding into these cars with the thick rubberized undercoating would be pretty tricky. and since they arent ever going to be collectable not worth the expense, unless you can do it yourself and just want to., you know for the love of it.

tom w

I can literally see the road from the back seat, so no more "kids" in the back until this gets settled, eh?

I guess what I'm curious is what you hanging this stuff onto on the bottom?

Also heavy aluminum isn't cheap, so I'm guessing it was a few hundred bucks just for that, eh?
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2006, 03:06 PM
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OK, so here are pics

Lost cause? I'm thinking of just taking it to a body shop and asking if they'll put some plates/sheet metal on.
Attached Thumbnails
Rusted floors-rustfloor02.jpg   Rusted floors-rustfloor01.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 06-20-2006, 03:18 PM
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cut all of the undercoating off from around the rusted through areas, and see what your working with...

You could invest in a thick rubber floormat, u know?

The cars perfectly safe to drive with rusted out floors, just dont loose any kids through them, or crash.


spend $400 on a good mig welder (i like the hobert handeler series), and do it yourself...
good luck to you
~Nate
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  #12  
Old 06-20-2006, 04:41 PM
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Duct tape. Lots of duct tape.

I would screw/rivot aluminum sheeting in as posted earlier. I put an aluminum sheet into the driver's floor where your heel rests (between pedals and seat) on my first car, a 64 Buick Riviera (I was 16 years old). I used roofing tar between the overlap of floor and aluminum sheeting, sheet metal screws and covered with felt roofing paper before replacing the carpet. It worked great.

I would definately repair it and NOT drive it exposed because of exhaust exposure potential.

Also if it has cancer, you might be able to arrest any further rusting by painting the underside with Rust Bullet.
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  #13  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:09 PM
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Unibody rust, ouch!

Okay, see view from under the floormats. Not pretty at all. See ugly cancer shots below. I like the screw/rivot aluminum sheeting idea. I'll probably go with that after all if it would help. I was kind of hoping to be able to restore it as the engine seems great, but if it is this bad in the unibody, may not be worth it?

Post of the front passenger seat is sitting on rotten grunge.

I'm bummed. Check out the road through the floor. Salvagable, via the aluminum sheet approach, tho' eh?

Do any retailers tend to carry rust bullet? I've used a rust converter product before I thought it worked great.

-Chuck
Attached Thumbnails
Rusted floors-dsc04407.jpg   Rusted floors-dsc04406.jpg  
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2006, 05:41 PM
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I gots me a nice georgia 100% rust sheet metal donor.

Let em know if you want to buy some patches from me.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2006, 06:24 PM
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When patching...

Am I patching with sheet metal, putting it under the car or fitting it in from the inside?
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