Hi, heres what I want a MB diesel for:
> I want a diesel to run WVO in. I really would like a truck, but a decent one of them is too expensive, 8K or more.
> I figure if I get a car that was engineered well in the beginning, and do all the basic work myself, I can come out ahead a few years down the road (than if I bought a VW diesel or something).
> They're cool cars, I just love that front grille with the MB star.

So the local MB mechanic (who is highly recommended in the Good mechanics section) told me about this guy who had a 1987 300D and an '82 300SD (both turbos) that need work. I went and looked at them today.

I think I've eliminated the '82. The clearcoat has pretty much completely peeled off, although no rust. The brakes feel pretty spongy. The AC doesn't work and neither do any of the windows or sunroof, no way to cool off. The interior is pretty rough. I also didn't care for the length and maneuverability. I have no problem driving and parking a crew cab long bed F-350, but didn't care too much for this long and low of a car.

However, the '87 looks nice if I can get over the "not quite as good" motor and one major problem. Heres my rundown:
Good:
> Nice smoke grey paint, one small rust bubble.
> Seems like they've taken care of it, at least what they told me (new exhaust, timing adjustment by a good mechanic, new radiator which he broke while doing an oil change, left engine mount, etc).
> 182K miles
> Fair interior, one crack in dash and good looking blue leather seats.
> Nice looking car, seems small enough that I could enjoy zipping around in it.
Bad:
> Has sat for 3 years.
> Somehow someone shorted something under the dash and fried a lot of electrical parts. I would get an estimate from a good mechanic before buying, but the turn signals, blower motor, windows, sunroof, radio (which is aftermarket, the guy may have connected a hot wire to ground when putting it in) and who knows what else doesn't work.
> Didn't get to drive it, because he locked the keys in the car when I got there. (Any tips on how to unlock them cheap?) He says it drives very nice.

He wants $2500 for it. I think thats quite high unless the wiring is fixed. So here are my main questions:
> What about the 6 cyl motor? It has an aluminum head, right? I was hearing great things about those earlier cast iron head motors, but won't this one be pretty darn good anyway? I'm also 18 and wouldn't mind having extra pickup if its significantly better over the 5 cyl. Remember I am running vegetable oil.
> What do you think about price, and if I should even consider this car with the problems it has.

I will get a mechanics inspection. I will probably go ahead and get him to tell me what it will cost to get the wiring stuff done. I'm not afraid to get dirty and do some work (when /ifI get it home the first thing I'll do is all fluids and other stuff you recommend). I'm not looking for a money pit though, or to buy someone elses problems.

If your still reading, thanks a lot!

One of those "slim Jim" tools that tow truck drivers carry should slide down the drivers side door and hook the lock and pop it up

That will get you in for your test drive, right?

For some reason, the blue Mercedes dashes are more prone to cracking than other colors. No one isw sure why. A good dash mat will cover up that problem.

Obviously you need a PPI, because problems such as the electrics can help you bargain the price real hard.

Have the car checked for rust everywhere before you commit to buying, lift up the carpets, look under the trunk mat, at the jacking points
(Absolutely critical!) and look for any evidence of prior collision damage....

See if the car has books and records for prior service and ask to look them over carefully

Sitting for 3 years does no car any good, as rust or contractions could have done harm to the engine over time, and that is to say nothing of rubber bits and lines drying out and cracking. Check everything carefully.

Due to the interest in WVO, RUG/WVO blends and high RUG prices, interest in older Mercedes has spiked, with resultant upwards prices, so I would guess a 1987 300D W124 diesel without issues could easily sell for over $5000- double the price of the one you are contemplating, so if the car otherwise runs well, $2500 MIGHT be worth paying for that one.

I have heard the W124 series cars like this one has wiring harness issue to beware of....

As a general rule, it is felt the W124 car is an excellent model (1986-1995) and most of them are loaded with great safety features like ABS and SRS
(antilock brakes and airbags) while well built yet built with old school Mercedes craftsmanship, to an engineering standard and not to a price point.

I am sure others will chime in with more informed opinions than mine, but this is a start for you anyway

Jim B.

__________________
1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)

I am a w126 300sd man.... I would always go for the least rust,
and a working engine and working tranny...windows are an easy fix,
and the ac and stuff usually dont work becasue the climate control is bad
and that is a 70 dollar junk yard item....


search www craigslist dot com I see these cars for 1200 bucks all the time..
there is one in louisville ky.... so you have to drive a long ways to get it... so what.. this one is a 300d

I would wait for a W126 (1981-1985) or W116 pre 1980 300SD. You can't kill the engine unless you run it dry. I'm burning WVO/RUf in my '83, burned it in my '85 too.

Parts are actually pretty cheap (for a mercedes) AND if you keep your eye out you can probably pick one up for around a grand in half decent shape.

Also the W123's have the same cast iron head engine so they would be a good choice too.

Marty