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Old 06-27-2006, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fernandina Beach, Florida
Posts: 626
124 Cam Follower/Tappets Replacement Procedure tips

I recently (after much avoiding due to fear of screwing it up), replaced cam followers on the wife's 1992 300D 2.5 (124). Actually, there was probably a little fear from the wife not being happy with it too,,,,,hmmmm, counseling time perhaps.

Anyway, it was relatively easy, and if you're putting it off, don't, it's not that hard. What you need is knowledge and a few tools - no special tools - just a torque wrench, a 12 point 13mm socket (for the cam sprocket bolt - a 1/2" worked for me), and the Mercedes workshop manual on how to remove the camshaft and timing chaIN tensioner. These are workshop procedures 05-220 and 05-310 respectively. I tried to upload them as attachments to this post but they're too big, so I thought screw it, I'll upload the whole workshop manual I got from steaky.skinnerbox.org to my site. I have been having trouble getting to his site anyway, so I put the whole lot up to my site.

full mercedes workshop manuals at www.pauldrayton.com/plainpages/merc

(I'm uplaoding it now - all 1 GB of it, so it might take a little while to get there)

I believe I made the 123 series pdf files text searchable - so I could find things in them easily. Also, some of the pdf files from steaky are corrupt, but they are fixable by opening them in a text editor and adding the missing bit that you stole from the beginning of a working pdf file. If that's confusing, let me know I'll go into more details.

Anyway, back to the cam followers. Here are my tips in addition to the workshop manuals above.

When removing the oil cover, I found it easier to remove the oil cover bolts first and then remove the turbo boost pipe - it's easier to twist off if the oil cover can move.

A 12 point 13 mm socket is needed for the Cam shaft sprocket. This is just a normal 13mm socket, but some of them (cheaper ones I think) have only 6 flat edges inside ie like the shape of a normal bolt, and some have 12 flat edges (points). Check you have a 13 mm or 1/2" 12 point. The 1/2" worked for me, but 13mm is probably better.

The chain tensioner removal was easy - just use a 19mm socket on it - the smaller bolt that is on the end, not the bigger one in the middle.

Remove the cam shaft holding bolts of the 1, 2 and 6 supports completely before removing the remaining bolts. I didn't do that, and when I released the 3,4,5 bolts, the others tightened up again. Follow the procedure in the manual carefully and you won't bend the camshaft.

I put the engine at TDC like it said - the marker on the flywheel at the mark between 1 | 0, but the position of the camshaft looked different to how the manual shows it. It worked fine though - at least the car is running fine....

That's about all. the manuals are good on this procedure. The whole thing took me less than 3 hours, but I did have practice taking the oil cover off becuae I took it off a few times to check the tappets. They can be checked by pushing on them with a piece of wood. They should all stay up .I think it's more than .4 mm is took much clearance.

If you haven't tried it yet, and have cam noise, put Mobil 1 in - it really does work. Mine were fine after I used that oil, but I replaced them anyway becuase I wasn't sure. Now that I have found out the noise was actually an injector I feel stupid for replacing them, but I guess they would have worn out eventually. But you can learn from my mistakes.

Oh yes, when I started the car up after I was done, I almost had a heartattack! The engine was rocking like crazy! But after it was revved a little, it settled back down to steady. SHHHHUUUUHHH@! I cr$%pped myself for a minute there!

That's it.

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