Im not 100% sure this applies to the MB starter as I have never taken one apart. However, often times the current is applied to the starter motor itself as a result of the solenoid coming forward. There are heavy contacts in the back of the solenoid that close then the solenoid goes out. It sounds to be line the solenoid is working ok, and the motor is working ok, but those contacts in the back of the solenoid are broken. You'll know for sure when you reinstall it I guess, but i bet thats whats busted. I have seen it happen many times on 6.2 diesels.

I will put the starter back in place and make sure the connections are clean and healthy...
But if it is the nutral switch where would it be? Does anyone have a picture maybe so i can locate it.
Regards
Dan

Ok guy's I think for now this will be the last update.
I have finished putting the starter back in place...and guess what.The engine fired up again like nothing had ever happend .So I suspect the the solenoid and or the starter motor itself are a bit tired .Lets not forget the fact that this car is 23 years old and it has given a few starts in its life time.
So when this thursday comes around I will R/R it again and have it redone by a specialist.
Again I want to thank the room for all the wise advice and I will keep you all posted.
Best Regards to all
Dan

Ok guy's
The latest update....
Well yesterday I had the old starter refurbish,they replaced all the brushe's and they also replaced the solenoid that was very weak.Did several tests on there bench and everything was looking good until....This morning after work i started to re install the starter and when I was finaly done I had the engine turn over...It was great, it started I would say four maybe five times...Then the same Damn problem again....NOTHING!
So thats where it ended for today.I have no idea what went wrong.I tryed to jump start it via the wires on the R/H fender but again NOTHING!
Whats next guy's?
Im getting tired of this.
Looking forward for your wise adivice...
Regards
Dan

Hmmm. You said you started and stopped it 4 or 5 times? How long did you wait in between? These starters get real hot when turning. If you stopped and started it 4 or 5 times in rapid succession you may have hurt something. Also, I didnt see you list a rewound armature in that list of things they rebuilt. If you have a short in there it very often only shows when hot, especialy at first. If they didnt rewind the original or replace it you may very well still have a bad starter.

No I started the car four or five times in a period of about 2 hours or so.
Im not sure what they did exactly to the starter.All i know is they replaced the brushes had to do a special weld to them because it was a diesel starter and they also replaced the solenoid and they did a bench test while i was there.

Try pushing forward on the gear selection lever when it is in park. I believe that can give the safety switch an extra nudge.

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Today I removed the junction box and cleaned all the wire connections,and the junction box too...Made sure all the wires are not cut or damaged and all is ok.So i think the next step is to remove the starter motor again and bring it back to the shop that rebuilt it to have checkd again.
One day at a time guy's ..lol

Sadly I think you have a bad winding in the starter. In my 300D i went through this and had the starter in and out 3 times. It stinks, but once you get a good one in there you should be good for a long time wth it. I dont think I would waste too much time on the neutral swith since you said you couldnt get it spinning by jumping it directly either. Yank it back out and explain to the starter rebuilder that the issue only shows up when the starter is hot.

BEFORE you remove the starter again, try HOLDING the key in the START position and S-L-O-W-L-Y move the shifter in the PARK position and then try the NEUTRAL position. If it still won't start at the key, try the under-the-hood method to work the starter. If the starter works every time, then you need to install a Hard Start Relay.

__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

Here is a quote from his earlier post:

"I tryed to jump start it via the wires on the R/H fender but again NOTHING!"

Why does everyone keep telling him to check the neutral switch?

Endust, You ARE right.... Trying to engage the starter at the 3 screw terminal block bypasses the neutral safety switch. I didn't read ALL of the earlier posts and wanted to give him all ideas to check. In having his starter rebuilt at a shop, hopefully they did a growler test on the armature. I had a "dead spot" armature on my wifes old '84 300TD. I replaced the armature. I want him to recheck the starting AFTER the rebuild to see if it is still dead at the terminal block. I wonder if he could have a bad ground between the engine and chassis.

__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

I had exactly the same problem a few months back. Search, and you'll find the thread. Try replacing the "S" wire from the bus bar to the solenoid.

Jay.

__________________
On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

Good evening friends.
Well I have done the starting thing at the junction box on the R/H fender.Have tried so many times in nutral...in park and then some.I even installed temporary wires overiding the ones in the junction box to see if anything would happen,but no out of luck there too.
Now I have a few questions for you all.
1= When a relay is defective does it still make a clicking noise or not?
( I'm talking about the relay noise I hear in the dash board behind the radio when I turn the ignition key just before starting the engine)
2= What is a HOT BOX? And where is it? Is it the box on the L/H fender where all the wires going to the glow plugs are?

Again I thank you all for your support and guidance.
Regards
Dan
Vancouver BC

I know this maybe a dumb question but did you check your battery cables and battery post to clamp connections? Are they clean? Check the connection where the NEGATIVE cable grounds to the body.

Humor me and take a battery jumper cable and connect it to the negative post of the battery and then connect the other end to a GOOD grounding spot on the engine. Try the starter. This tells us if the engine is grounded with the chassis.

With the car jacked up WITH stands set, try the starter from under the car by jumping from the big battery connection on the solenoid to the small stud on the solenoid where the key switch wire connects. If it doesn't work then, the only thing that it could be is the starter.

Are you ever hearing the starter solenoid click even when the starter motor doesn't turn?

Call the shop that rebuilt the starter and ask if they thoroughy tested the armature AND commutator on the armature. there COULD be a dead segment on the commutator.

This has been a stumper!!! Let us know what you find!!

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.