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  #1  
Old 07-01-2006, 08:21 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Question Lock Pump Stopped working, 0.24 volts at its plug??? Help??

My dad said his central locking system quit the other day, so I checked it out today, and sure enough, it doesn't do anything. I messed with the plug in the trunk, and the pump suddenly turned on, and sucked extreme vacuum on the lines (can't pull them up when its running! ) then I unplugged it, and plugged it back in and it won't do anything now, not a sound. Lifting and lowering the lock plunger in the drivers door does nothing. The locks obviously have excellent vaccum (no leaks) and they were all replaced by the prev owner. He said the pump suddenly worked yesterday when he went into a store and locked the car, but then it was dead again when he came back out.

I got out my trusty voltimeter and tested the round three prong connector to the pump in the trunk, it has blue/yellow/brown wires going into it....brown is ground, and when the lock think in the driver door is up, I am getting 0.24 volts at the yellow wire, and with it down, 0.24 on the blue. There is no 12v power on the cable, which would explain pump no worky. How is there only .24 volts getting to the connector??? I am thinking problem with the switch in the door? The pump was running great when it came on randomly for that minute before I couldn't get it to come on again, and it didn't turn off either when it came on, it ran for about 40 seconds till I pulled the plug....odd. It had always worked perfectly prior to just a couple days ago.

Any ideas??

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  #2  
Old 07-01-2006, 09:21 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Anyone???
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #3  
Old 07-01-2006, 09:26 PM
JamesDean's Avatar
Electrical Engineer
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 5,038
i believe it to be the switch in the driver's side door.

check that.
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  #4  
Old 07-01-2006, 09:47 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean
i believe it to be the switch in the driver's side door.

check that.

Thats what I was thinking, but why would it "reliably" provide .24 volts when switched between the up and down position? Is there a circuit board in the switch or something that can go bad? I'd imagine its supposed to be 12 volts to run the pump....

I'll look into the switch soon but I still wonder why it'd just give "less" voltage vs. none?
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #5  
Old 07-01-2006, 11:20 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 1,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD
I'll look into the switch soon but I still wonder why it'd just give "less" voltage vs. none?
A corroded connector could cause that. Pull off the driver's door panel and verify the switch is getting 12 volts.

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