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  #31  
Old 04-09-2010, 04:52 PM
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Repeatedly cleaned a W123 hazard rocker after it gave me trouble- gave me 2 weeks of additional use, about a year, a couple more weeks, and finally, no joy. Found a new one cheaply. Aside from the sheer wonder of taking it apart and putting it back together, it would have been easier to replace it when I had a job.
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  #32  
Old 04-12-2010, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
Repeatedly cleaned a W123 hazard rocker after it gave me trouble- gave me 2 weeks of additional use, about a year, a couple more weeks, and finally, no joy. Found a new one cheaply. Aside from the sheer wonder of taking it apart and putting it back together, it would have been easier to replace it when I had a job.
did you polish the contacts? im still using the originals. without a single problem
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  #33  
Old 04-03-2012, 04:22 AM
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This might be a bit late for some people who have done this but cleaning the contacts with edge of a screwdriver is actually a bad thing. That creates scratches and while it looks clean it will oxidize faster and the microscratches will wear the surface faster until they or wha they touch are worn down. What you want to do is burnish the contacts. An eraser is what a lot of people reccomend but that only removes some of the oxidization a proper burnishing tool will removes he layer and polish without causing the scratches that do more damage. A few years ago you could walk into radio shack and grab one. You can still order one from a electronics supply house but unless you have a lot of switches you plan to do the cheap way is to use plastic kitchen scrubbers held over that pencil eraser. The eraser provides a soft cushion and support. To use just twirl it until you see bright or clean metal. You can try spray ooxide contact cleaner but agan a can of that is a lifetime supply.

UUntil the pivots wear or the contact strips break from fatigue you can generally get any switch to work again. If the switch is no longer available you can still rebuild them with simple hand tools and a bit of time. The most complicated part of that would be somethin like heatreating a new brass strip.
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  #34  
Old 04-06-2012, 01:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dufflespank View Post
Yeah, does anyone know how to get the switches out of the center console in the w124? Do you just pull on them?
should pop out from underneath, look for two little retaining spring clips built into the "ends" of the switches
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  #35  
Old 04-06-2012, 10:57 AM
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FYI

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Originally Posted by Wragie View Post
This might be a bit late for some people who have done this but cleaning the contacts with edge of a screwdriver is actually a bad thing. That creates scratches and while it looks clean it will oxidize faster and the micro scratches will wear the surface faster until they or wha they touch are worn down. What you want to do is burnish the contacts. An eraser is what a lot of people recommend but that only removes some of the oxidization a proper burnishing tool will removes he layer and polish without causing the scratches that do more damage. A few years ago you could walk into radio shack and grab one. You can still order one from a electronics supply house but unless you have a lot of switches you plan to do the cheap way is to use plastic kitchen scrubbers held over that pencil eraser. The eraser provides a soft cushion and support. To use just twirl it until you see bright or clean metal. You can try spray oxide contact cleaner but again a can of that is a lifetime supply.

Until the pivots wear or the contact strips break from fatigue you can generally get any switch to work again. If the switch is no longer available you can still rebuild them with simple hand tools and a bit of time. The most complicated part of that would be something like heat treating a new brass strip.
Frequently the contact points are seriously burnt = grinding/sanding a 0.5 MM tit and pit = this is a field expedient repair of variable durability.
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  #36  
Old 04-06-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Frequently the contact points are seriously burnt = grinding/sanding a 0.5 MM tit and pit = this is a field expedient repair of variable durability.
Roy, I always follow your advice, but "Tit and Pit"? I am thinking human anatomy and not seeing how this helps with our aging switches.
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  #37  
Old 04-06-2012, 02:27 PM
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Nice write up! Thanks.
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  #38  
Old 04-10-2012, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Renntag View Post
Roy, I always follow your advice, but "Tit and Pit"? I am thinking human anatomy and not seeing how this helps with our aging switches.
You know I think they used to explain these things using puppets
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  #39  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:07 PM
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Burnt switch contact points are a fact of physics

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Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Frequently the contact points are seriously burnt = grinding/sanding a 0.5 MM tit and pit = this is a field expedient repair of variable durability.
Sooner or later all electrical switch contact points become pitted and burnt.

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