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#31
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Repeatedly cleaned a W123 hazard rocker after it gave me trouble- gave me 2 weeks of additional use, about a year, a couple more weeks, and finally, no joy. Found a new one cheaply. Aside from the sheer wonder of taking it apart and putting it back together, it would have been easier to replace it when I had a job.
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
#32
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Quote:
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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it |
#33
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This might be a bit late for some people who have done this but cleaning the contacts with edge of a screwdriver is actually a bad thing. That creates scratches and while it looks clean it will oxidize faster and the microscratches will wear the surface faster until they or wha they touch are worn down. What you want to do is burnish the contacts. An eraser is what a lot of people reccomend but that only removes some of the oxidization a proper burnishing tool will removes he layer and polish without causing the scratches that do more damage. A few years ago you could walk into radio shack and grab one. You can still order one from a electronics supply house but unless you have a lot of switches you plan to do the cheap way is to use plastic kitchen scrubbers held over that pencil eraser. The eraser provides a soft cushion and support. To use just twirl it until you see bright or clean metal. You can try spray ooxide contact cleaner but agan a can of that is a lifetime supply.
UUntil the pivots wear or the contact strips break from fatigue you can generally get any switch to work again. If the switch is no longer available you can still rebuild them with simple hand tools and a bit of time. The most complicated part of that would be somethin like heatreating a new brass strip. |
#34
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should pop out from underneath, look for two little retaining spring clips built into the "ends" of the switches
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-SpecialDelivery 1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that) 1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold) 1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold) |
#35
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FYI
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#36
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Roy, I always follow your advice, but "Tit and Pit"? I am thinking human anatomy and not seeing how this helps with our aging switches.
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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive) 84 300SD Daily driver 85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily. 98 E300D *sold 86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home. |
#37
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Nice write up! Thanks.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#38
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You know I think they used to explain these things using puppets
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#39
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Burnt switch contact points are a fact of physics
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. Setting Ignition Points Pagoda SL Group Technical Manual :: Electrical / IgnitionSystem Air ride repair SetSail » Blog Archive » Battery Switch Problems on the Boat Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - 86 F350 Starting Problems Bingo Pinballs - Magic Ring Overhaul - Moto-tool Cleaning 1982-1993 Mustang GT Registry Message Board - View Single Post - Burning out NEW starter solenoids - why? . |
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