Repeatedly cleaned a W123 hazard rocker after it gave me trouble- gave me 2 weeks of additional use, about a year, a couple more weeks, and finally, no joy. Found a new one cheaply. Aside from the sheer wonder of taking it apart and putting it back together, it would have been easier to replace it when I had a job.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

did you polish the contacts? im still using the originals. without a single problem

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have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

This might be a bit late for some people who have done this but cleaning the contacts with edge of a screwdriver is actually a bad thing. That creates scratches and while it looks clean it will oxidize faster and the microscratches will wear the surface faster until they or wha they touch are worn down. What you want to do is burnish the contacts. An eraser is what a lot of people reccomend but that only removes some of the oxidization a proper burnishing tool will removes he layer and polish without causing the scratches that do more damage. A few years ago you could walk into radio shack and grab one. You can still order one from a electronics supply house but unless you have a lot of switches you plan to do the cheap way is to use plastic kitchen scrubbers held over that pencil eraser. The eraser provides a soft cushion and support. To use just twirl it until you see bright or clean metal. You can try spray ooxide contact cleaner but agan a can of that is a lifetime supply.

UUntil the pivots wear or the contact strips break from fatigue you can generally get any switch to work again. If the switch is no longer available you can still rebuild them with simple hand tools and a bit of time. The most complicated part of that would be somethin like heatreating a new brass strip.

should pop out from underneath, look for two little retaining spring clips built into the "ends" of the switches

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)

Frequently the contact points are seriously burnt = grinding/sanding a 0.5 MM tit and pit = this is a field expedient repair of variable durability.

Roy, I always follow your advice, but "Tit and Pit"? I am thinking human anatomy and not seeing how this helps with our aging switches.

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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

Nice write up! Thanks.

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

You know I think they used to explain these things using puppets

Sooner or later all electrical switch contact points become pitted and burnt.

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