Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-07-2006, 11:48 AM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Good vac news/Bad vac news

The good news: I believe I have figured out the cause of the rough shifting I've been getting on cool mornings.

The bad news: It's a climate control leak! This is bad because I was hoping I wouldn't have to take the dash apart to fix this problem.

This morning I got up a little early and tested the vac to my transmission. It registered at just under 6" hg at idle, down from 20.5" hg at idle when it's warm out (ambient temp.). Now before you freak out about the 20.5 number, realize I have an '85 CA car and the vacuum is a little different on it. In other words, the numbers on Diesel Giant's site and in other places may not be right for my car. I don't know what they should be, though...so if you have any thoughts, please chime in.

Now it was a bit dewy this morning so I used the defrost, which I haven't touched in a while...and the shifting was great! I did some more experimenting and sure enough, smooth shifting with defrost on and hard shifting with it off. Previously I'd tried the climate control in various positions - different temps and settings - and it hadn't seemed to make a difference. Guess maybe I'd neglected defrost. I'd also given some vacuum to the blue/green line that I think goes to the climate control and it held the vacuum, but that was when it was warm out and the problem only surfaces when it's cool.

My purpose for posting this is I did some searching and it seems the vac setup for the climate control in the '85's is, once again, a bit different than the other cars. I noticed on one site I saw that they sold vac diaphragms for climate control, but they were only good through the '84 cars. So in other words, I'm not sure whether the info. I find will apply to my particular car.

If anyone has any ideas about why my shifting would be good with the defrost on but not off...please fill me in! And if you have some theory on how I could maybe fix it without removing the dash, well I'd love to prove you right.

Thanks in advance. Thanks also for reading this long post if you've gotten this far.

__________________
Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-07-2006, 01:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 510
Keep in mind mine MB is an 83...so take this for what it's worth. But I THINK the defrost flap is controlled by a dual action pod...could be with the defrost in the off position the pod leaks causing bad shifts.

Good news! As I recall that pod is easy to access by removing the drivers side kick panel and it's right there. Just check/replace the vaccum hose connections first...you may get lucky and fix it for a nickle's worth of tubing.

All this vaccum stuff sucks!
__________________
Mark
1983 300TD Wagon
Even a broken watch is right twice a day
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-07-2006, 01:45 PM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mismost
Keep in mind mine MB is an 83...so take this for what it's worth. But I THINK the defrost flap is controlled by a dual action pod...could be with the defrost in the off position the pod leaks causing bad shifts.

Good news! As I recall that pod is easy to access by removing the drivers side kick panel and it's right there. Just check/replace the vaccum hose connections first...you may get lucky and fix it for a nickle's worth of tubing.

All this vaccum stuff sucks!
I wouldn't have guessed the pod was under that panel...but it can't hurt to take a look! It's a good place to start, at least. I guess I'll remove the panel and see if I notice anything moving when I turn defrost on/off.

If you're right that would be wonderful. Thanks a lot!
__________________
Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-07-2006, 03:50 PM
dmorrison's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Colleyville, Texas
Posts: 2,695
The manual shows the same AC system in the 85 300D and I can't see Mercedes changing the evap box in the W123 model in 1985. So with that said, your defroster vacuum element is just above your gas pedal. Remove the driver lower panel and look for a black and pink element. this is the defroster unit.
A mityvac will help you determine if it is the element or not. I fthe lelment checks out OK then it could be the vacuum switch behind the AC control panel.
Let us know

Look here

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123Evaporator

And go to the picture

"080 300TD Unclip the connector base on the drivers side case"

That is your defroster element.

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-07-2006, 08:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 510
DMORRISON YOU THE MAN! What a piece of work and a great DYI write up! I defere to your greater knowledge.

(but I would slit my wrists before I tackled that evaporator replacement...think I'd rather do brain surgery)
__________________
Mark
1983 300TD Wagon
Even a broken watch is right twice a day
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-07-2006, 10:19 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maroon 300D
The good news: I believe I have figured out the cause of the rough shifting I've been getting on cool mornings.

The bad news: It's a climate control leak! This is bad because I was hoping I wouldn't have to take the dash apart to fix this problem.

This morning I got up a little early and tested the vac to my transmission. It registered at just under 6" hg at idle, down from 20.5" hg at idle when it's warm out (ambient temp.). Now before you freak out about the 20.5 number, realize I have an '85 CA car and the vacuum is a little different on it. In other words, the numbers on Diesel Giant's site and in other places may not be right for my car. I don't know what they should be, though...so if you have any thoughts, please chime in.

Now it was a bit dewy this morning so I used the defrost, which I haven't touched in a while...and the shifting was great! I did some more experimenting and sure enough, smooth shifting with defrost on and hard shifting with it off. Previously I'd tried the climate control in various positions - different temps and settings - and it hadn't seemed to make a difference. Guess maybe I'd neglected defrost. I'd also given some vacuum to the blue/green line that I think goes to the climate control and it held the vacuum, but that was when it was warm out and the problem only surfaces when it's cool.
Note the following:

The selection of "defrost" shuts down the vacuum to all actuators. So, if thre are any leaks in the pods, the system won't see the leak because no vacuum is sent to any actuator in this condition.

The climate control system should have a restrictor to prevent the exact scenario that you experience. The SD, like all of the 20 year old vehicles, had two leaking pods for years, resulting in defrost all the time, but the transmission was not affected because the size of the vacuum leak through the restrictor was not sufficient to drop the vacuum to the transmission.

So, if you can't get your pods fixed quickly, get the restrictor back in the system and all will be well.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-07-2006, 11:38 PM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Note the following:

The selection of "defrost" shuts down the vacuum to all actuators. So, if thre are any leaks in the pods, the system won't see the leak because no vacuum is sent to any actuator in this condition.

The climate control system should have a restrictor to prevent the exact scenario that you experience. The SD, like all of the 20 year old vehicles, had two leaking pods for years, resulting in defrost all the time, but the transmission was not affected because the size of the vacuum leak through the restrictor was not sufficient to drop the vacuum to the transmission.

So, if you can't get your pods fixed quickly, get the restrictor back in the system and all will be well.
Ok, here's what I've done so far: I found the pink and white (it was white in my case) vacuum element for what I assume is the defrost. It's located exactly where dmorrison said it would be in his outstanding (wow!) pictorial.

I discovered that this particular element holds vacuum, but pumping it up is a slow proicess for some reason. It takes several pumps on my Craftsman vac pump to get up to a level most where one pump would normally take it. Once there it holds it, though.

There seems to be a leak down the line, though, because when I keep that connected to the defrost element it doesn't hold vac. This is a red and blue line that seems to run from the back of the defrost element (as opposed to the vac line that runs straight down) to one of the center vents.
I took everything out that can be taken out other than the dash and there's no way to get to it.

So here's a question: what happpens if I put a BB in the line running from the back of the defroster element to the center vent?

And oh yeah, about the restrictor: what is the restrictor, exactly? I noted a black orifice behind the CCU but this doesn't appear to be directly connected to the defrost element.
__________________
Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-10-2006, 01:26 AM
Cabernet red, actually
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Willamette Valley, OR
Posts: 503
Well I realized putting a BB in the line would be stupid, especially as that's the line that goes to the vents beneath the windshield and seems fine.

My problem must be in that unit/s behind the CCU somewhere, but I realized I wasn't sure how to test it, exactly, so I will research that a bit and try again another time.

__________________
Ralph

1985 300D Turbo, CA model
248,650 miles and counting...
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page