Thanks a lot can-do,
I must admit, I am not the most talented hobby-mech. out there and my know-how is limited. But I would like to learn.
I do need to have a valve adjustment and need to change and adjust my timing belts as well. The only question I have is with regard to difficulty. I have some literature on these sort of tune-up jobs but I am just wondering if a guy with a set of screw drivers and wrenchs do the job. Please advise.
I burn probably about 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles... think this is excessive... what do you guys think? I see a quart of oil as being a little bit less than half showing on the dipstick. I think their maybe a leak in the engine so I am going to clean it off really good with "GUNK" and see if I can't spot it. But I think my 240D just burns a lot of it too at the same time.

Thanks again for the advice it is well appreciated.

-SB

Greetings Silverbullet,


In regards to your oil consumption, I am assuming that we are talking about the 240D as mentioned in your post? I think a lot of us diesel owners watching the dipstick so much that we actually convince ourselves that our engines are eating oil when in fact a lot of it is leakage from various areas. Let's look at a few areas that leak frequently on a diesel, my 300TD at least did and probably is an example that others will too. Look over the following and see if there is evidence after a good degrease job if you see oil in the following areas after a few days of driving. 1. valve cover gasket, generally on the passenger side or the rear. 2.Vacuum pump return line to either the manifold or filter housing lid, this ones deceiving and you'll have to remove the line and let it either hang down, and put a sock over the end to catch the oil as you drive to notice the vacuum diaphragm has gone dead on you. 3.Injection pump vacuum shut off valve. You'll notice oil coming from the small hole on the key switch under the dash if this is sucking oil, engine will still shut down if the leak isn't excessive. 4.Valve seals gone bad will allow oil to burn on start up and during excessive loads to the engine. They simply get brittle with age and engine heat. 5.Valve adjustment will cause oil to be sucked past the guide and seal if it's off quite a bit. 6.Injection pump timing or start of delivery if off even causes not only unburned fuel to be spit out the tailpipe but takes oil with it. 7. Oil filter housing gasket to engine leaking 8.Rear or front main seal going south. This one is easy to detect. The front one is pretty much in view from under the hood, but the back one can generally be checked by backing down a steep hill or drive rear first down a steep drive and see what forms under the car in a matter of minutes right under the tranny bell housing. If a puddle develops, it's most likely the rear seal.
Hope this helps you access your engine leaks as well as burning situation. Honestly I'd look over these areas and see what needs maintenance, and fix it but with the oil consumption you speak of, I'd bet that half is leakage and the other might be burnt off, which in my book is considered very low burning compared to what you add between oil changes. Sounds like you have a strong and durable engine. If you feel really concerned, pull a few injectors and see what the tips and prechamber holes look like. If they're sooty looking, I doubt if you're burning much oil at all, but if they appear oily or oil burnt, you are probably torching a little midnight oil.
Yes, anyone who has the will, the metric tools and patience can do most work required on your Benz. You can pay the dealer if you like, but isn't your time worth anywhere from $65 to $85 an hour? Mine is

Charles

[Edited by can-do on 04-19-2001 at 12:57 AM]