Excellent.

Help is what we do here.

My 1981 MB 240 D body style 123.123 was having a hard time shifting.
I tried to link it to motor temperature because it shifted better after the motor got up to running temperature. I tried many different things to try to correct the problem to no avail. Still looking for answers, I contacted Sam Ross.

Sam Ross suggested that I find my vacuum schematic at
http://www.peterschmid.com/vacuum/1977_1985/616_617_91/616_617_91.jpg

240D 1977-83 123.123 616.912


This diagram was similar to what I had on my Mercedes (except that I have no EGR valve)
I first purchased a vacuum gauge.
After checking the vacuum at the mechanical switchover valve located on the valve cover the problem was apparent. It was a blocked orifice in the Y in route to the transmission.

After applying CRC and using a “tip cleaner” the orifice was cleared and the transmission shifts well and the diesel runs significantly smoother.

I fear that I replaced a transmission in this car with 214, 000 miles thinking the transmission was bad when the problem was with the vacuum system. What a conundrum this orifice in the rubber Y can cause when blocked !

I have read many threads on this subject and picked up much information about these wonderful cars. Thanks to all who share info on these forums.
I can now run my grease and bio-diesel car in relative peace and wait for the next glitch to arise.

... Another dirty restricted orifice ?!!
 

Arster... [ Jack ],
Thanks Jack... I am happy your problem was so easy that I somewhat accidently helped you find it as quickly as you did !!

By your following my request to write your POST above give as much detail as you could, I finally realized that your dirty orifice was the "in-line" orifice and/or " Y " connector supplying vacuum to the transmission vacuum modulating valve on the tranny... so the dirt was starving the "Tranny-Shifter Vacuum Control System" of vacuum thus allowing the Vacuum Control Valve [VCV] that sits on top of the IP and bleeds off vacuum according to throttle position... and this allowed the VCV to drop the vacuum level too quickly which in turn was causing early up-shifts you experienced!

A final recommendation... install cheap [ less than $2 ea ] in-line paper-medium [low friction loss ] filters to keep the dirt out of your system... on your model, install one of these on each vent line [ labeled "a" on the diagram ] and usually terminating under the dash.
One of these comes from the VCV [#65 in diag.] and for those of you with an EGR on your engine [post-1981 models!?], the other comes from the electric switchover valve [#81 in diag.] that controls the EGR incorporated as part of your Tranny-shifter Vacuum Control System on these later models. My 1980 and Jack's 1981 240D do NOT have EGR(s) system despite what these diagrams indicate!
Regards,

Nature Abhors a Vacuum (300D)
 

Folks,

I have an 81 300D and lately I have been working the vacuum system. My system appears most like http://www.peterschmid.com/vacuum/1977_1985/616_617_91/616_617_91.jpg, except that I do not have item 81 (and my car is 300D not 240D). Anyway, I have reworked the lock system and it is working fine. I have disconnected the HVAC vacuum system and plugged it off (will replace leaky under-dash actuators later). I have completely reworked the 3/2 valves on top of the valve cover, replacing them and the levers and tightening up all connections, replacing connector block as well. I have verified that all under hood connection are per the schematic above. I have replaced the green dash pot (72) and yellow orifice (63). I have also added a green orifice at 62 (since I did not know what was in the built-in tee). Flaring is the current issue as I am flaring in 2/3 adn 3/4 while also shifting at too low an RPM. I have checked the vacuum at the top of the VCV and it reads about 10 in HG and bleeds off to zero when I advance the throttle (performed with engine off). The vacuum line going to the transmission can hold a vacuum of 20 in Hg, while very slowly decreasing. Using a vaccuum tee in the transmission vacuum line and driving around, I see the reading fall from about 10 in Hg at idle to much lower levels quite quickly, not gradually over the range of throttle. So, I end up with 2-5 in Hg as the gears begin to shift. So far, I can not get the adjustment screw on the VCV to move (afraid I will break it) so I have not attempted any adjustments. Finally, I actually blocked off the vent branch of the Tee at the VCV and drove around - the situation was slightly improved. Any ideas?

Others will chime in but from what I remember in the previous posts, your vacuum readings sound reasonable.

I'm thinking next would be upgrading the springs found in the Superior shift spring kit.

Rocketman... lets see IF talking more about your good work can help !
 

Rocketman – I want to see IF I can help some here and I think it’s best IF I expand it by starting each sentence on its only line, underline the parts I’m responding to and then inject my comment(s) [in purple color] and question(s) [in red color] afterwards. Lets see how this works !? I just noted that you just recently joined the MercedesShop.Com FORUM in Dec, 2008… welcome !
First let me compliment you for doing your “due diligence” / homework before posting.

Note that I have 3 questions above in red that I’d like your responses to…
especially Q1 & Q2 after line [1].

So now where do I begin so I might do some good!...

Q4 – Did you clean out inside of any lines… and particularly the orifices [ #62 & 63]… did you try to loosen up and clean out the VCV?
I like to spray carburetor cleaner into such parts that have plastic/rubber parts and then blow them out gently. Remember that the air flowing in these systems is introducing dirt and this carries towards the vacuum pump… so general cleaning is VERY important. I bring this up because of your mentions of the orifices as noted above! Later maybe we can talk about installing in-line paper media fuel filters to help keep the system clean.

Q5 – In [7] above, why did you choose to add a green orifice [ 0.7mm – the smallest] at the start of the system at the Vac,Pmp-to-Brake Booster line? If I’m correct, these orifices are used to balance Engine/Tranny-Shifter Vacuum Control system so that then the bleeding effect of the VCV will adjust the vacuum being sent to the tranny modulator is close to that of a gas engine’s manifold vacuum when you work the throttle.

At this point my specific recommendations are as follow :

(1) As best you can, please answer my questions above.

(2) Unless you have already done so, I would remove the VCV from the car by unbolting it and disconnecting the plastic sliding latch on the linkage rod that is connected to the throttle linkage that is between the IP and engine block. Completely remove it from the car.

(3) Before doing any cleaning, first gently blow through the VCV using a clean hose connected to the vent connection… and NOTE the VCV’s resistance/flow characteristics as you rotate the linkage lever on the back side… note these characteristics for reference and comparison later after you clean. Also note whether you can feel spring tension/resistance as you rotate the linkage lever. Any adjustment that might be needed at some point in the future would be adjusting the tension of the spiral spring that is also inside the chamber. More on this as/IF necessary.

(4) Clean the VCV by spraying carburetor cleaner into the vent connection and gently blowing the cleaner on through the valve while working the mechanical linkage lever back and forth.

(5) Once you figure you have it dried out inside, then use something that will server to soften and condition the rubber/plastic seat that is inside the chamber… maybe silicone or even Armoral… and once again gentle blow through it while again working the linkage lever !

(6) Again blow gently through the VCV and make a mental comparison with before you cleaned it as to it's flow and resistance charateristics while blowing .

(7) It might be helpful IF you can give us a macro/closeup photo of the VCV while it's out of the car... front and back!
There are different types!


I think I have given you too much as it is… so try to complete the above and report back to us ! Regardless of my having written all of the above, DO NOT LET THIS cause anyone to hold back any ideas you want to interject... please!


Regards,

Nature Abhors a Vacuum (300D) a
 

Thanks for responding SMR.

I will start by clearing up the confusion that I left with my previous posts and answering any of your questions that I can with the information I currently have at hand.

Q1) and Q2) By information and belief, mileage for both car and trans is 145681. When I purchased the car in 2006, it had a working odometer that showed about 135K miles. However, when the odometer was set to rollover to 140K, it rolled to 240K instead. The odometer now is inoperable possibly due to speedo cable failure. The condition of the rest of the car (pedal wear, seat wear, etc.) is consistent with 145K.

Q3) I replaced the green dashpot as part of an overhaul of the vacuum system. Generally speaking I have replaced everything that I could, as long as the item was fairly inexpensive (check valves, connectors, dashpot, yellow splitter valve in lock circuit, lock master switch, thermal vacuum switch, 3/2 valves and levers (mine has 3)). I had already thought of putting the old dashpot back, but the trashman has it.

Q3a) The yellow orifice at 63 was not blocked, but I did try the new yellow orifice and the new blue orifice with no qualitative improvement to the shifting problem. The original yellow orifice is back in place.

Q4) I have been through the entire vacuum system with my handheld pump and all lines are open, to the best of my knowledge. The items that are supposed to hold vacuum (EGR, transmission modulator, VCV) seem to hold it or only leak down very slowly. Note that all these tests were performed with the engine off using the vac pump as the source.

Q4a) I have not removed or disassembled the VCV. I have only shot high pressure air from my compressor into the various ports (I did not overpressurize as the air source was only blown into the ports and was not actually hooked up to the ports).

Q5) After reading the Brotherton article, I noted on page 3 of 6, second paragraph, that he identified a common cause of flaring as high vacuum due to too large or no orifice restriction at 62. I also noted several posts in this thread that seemed to indicate the orifice as a mighty warrior in the battle to fix the shifting problem. I tried both the blue and green, with the green seeming to make a small, qualitative improvement. Since the effect was small, I conclude that the orifice in the Tee is approximately the same size as the green orifice I installed (green orifice remains in place).

General comments in response to your comments.

C1) My VCV is the model that includes the adjustment screw concealed behind the domed plastic cap. Based on the condition of the screw, it has clearly been abused in the past and will not turn, even with considerable torque applied via pliers (slot has been ruined and will not accept screwdriver blade).

C2) The VCV valve was tested without the engine running by using the handheld vacuum pump to apply vacuum (15 in Hg or so) to the top port (where the line to the green dashpot attaches) and then actuating the throttle cam by hand. Vacuum broke and fell proportionally with throttle position. I could also see small step changes that I attributed to the 3/2 valves as I watched the throttle cam actuate them. So, despite the abuse, the VCV does seem to work, in simulation if not in practice.

C3) The tranmission modulator valve was tested using the handheld vacuum pump as the source, attached at the 'b' leg of the Y connector at/near item 71 on the schematic. When pumped up to ~20 in Hg, the vacuum decayed very slowly - taking approximately 5 minutes or so to bleed off. So, no serious leaks here.

C4) The vacuum system, as it was when I purchased the car, had both the HVAC and LOCK systems blocked off and the 3/2 valves were leaky and/or not funcitoning due to worn levers and leaky connections. The previous owner may have tried to compensate for this by 'adjusting' the VCV - thus the abused adjustment screw. Shifting, especially when cold, was delayed and rough in 1/2 and fairly early, but smooth with no falring in 2/3 and 3/4. When I began to rework the system and 'fixed' all of the things mentioned above, the shifting became smooth in 1/2 and badly flaring in 2/3 and 3/4 while all transitions occurred at RPM that was too low. I would be in 4th gear at 15-20 mph with no means to accelerate. At all times relevant to this investigation, the transmission has been very reluctant to downshift and the kickdown switch has been ineffective or inoperable.

C5) When I performed the driving test, the handheld vacuum pump was Teed off from the 'b' leg of the Y connector near schematic item 71. The behavior of the vacuum did not indicate a linear reduction of vacuum with throttle position, as the vacuum seemed to fall to a relatively low value (~2 in Hg or less) as I drove up the hill to get out of the driveway. All shifting seemed to be occurring with vacuum readings that were fairly low, despite throttle positon. This led to my experiment with blocking off the VCV vent port and the associated qualitative improvement. This also seems to indicate that air is leaking into the VCV some other way.

C6) I will attempt to clean out the VCV and report back.

Thank you for your help in this matter.

Unfortunately, certain folks are wasting time and resources steering you to a vacuum problem when their understanding of the system is not comprehensive.

Understand this clearly:

Once vacuum to the transmission has fallen to such low levels (2-5" Hg), the vacuum system cannot fix the flaring. Flaring occurs when you've got too much vacuum. So, chasing vacuum issues at this point is a complete waste of time.

You've got two possibilities:

1) Get under the vehicle and increase the modulator pressure with the adjustment handle. Three turns clockwise on the handle and then take it for a drive.

2) Purchase the superior shift kit and replace some springs inside the valve body. This is not for the faint of heart and requires pristine cleanliness.

where can I get the shiftkit?

I think Brian's idea is correct...
 

Rocketman,
I think Brian's idea about adjusting the vacuum modulator is where you need to go NEXT for you have NOT mentioned adjusting the modulator in what is obviously your very thorough effort thus far to refurbish the vacuum control side of the "total system". AND your mention of the kickdown not working also sticks in my mind!

We could hold a "chicken-or-egg" argument as to where you should work first but this THREAD was started on the premise that these Engine/Tranny-Shifting Vacuum Control Systems [E/T-SVCS]... these systems were a far greater mystery to me at first and thus as I began to understand their importance on my much simpler 1980 model systems, I then started this THREAD to point out what turned out to be my problem with my car and its newly rebuilt transmission. I’m proud now I did this for this THREAD has proven extremely popular...
[now 53,000+ hits]!!

Thus Rocketman, I still think you were wise to make your considerable effort refurbishing the much misunderstood vacuum control side of the total automatic shifting system(S)… but Brian is correct in that IF you have not started adjusting the vacuum-to-hydraulic modulating valve that is on the tranny, then you have NOT addressed an IMPORTANT part of your total project.

For me I started out by first adjusting the modulator to both extremes [ in and out] all the way and in the process of doing this I counted the number of full turns this takes. Call this "adjustment lattitude". I think it turned our to be 20 to 25 turns. Then I adjusted it back to a mid-way position. From there because my tranny was flaring badly I adjusted the modulator 3 full turns at a time "IN" until I saw improvement. Then I began to make smaller and smaller adjustments. But I was working with a $2,500 rebuilt transmission that the young installing mechanic had completely botched the vacuum plumbing because he tried to use a 1982 diagram and also just did not have the patience or inclination to learn a logical method of first getting the vacuum control side resonably correct first before adjusting the modulator.

YOUR OLDER tranny might work out differently when you get into this IMPORTANT part of your fix. With the still relatively low mileage on your tranny, I am hopeful you will see real progress soon once you doe as Brian is suggesting… and then later you might find it necessary to go back to further checking out the VCV. Believe us, on trannies that are [shall we say] "broken in", you will find yourself back under the car many times before you get things just the way they need to be. I must have done this ~10 times!

Again, congratulations for your work thus far...

But as I closie this, let me do so close by relating an incident I just experienced with my Son's 1980 300D. It suddenly started shifting very poorly with much the same symptoms as you have described with your 1981 model. This was immediately after I had done a oil/filter service and so I was naturally suspect that I might have knocked something off or loose. Sure enough, the mechanical link rod between the VCV and throttle/idle linkage connection point had some how come completely off so the VCV was static... NOT working at all and the static bleed position it was in was what the vacuum side of the control system had to use ! I relate this incident to temper and yes, counter, Brian's idea about the vacuum side of these very common E/T-SVCS problems... the vacuum side is never responsible for the sifting symptoms you have described... the flaring shifts.

Regards,

............thereby resulting in very high vacuum to the modulator at all times with the expected flaring occurring on the 2-3 shift.

Said condition is completely opposite to the current condition stated by Rocketman...........but, thanks for your contribution.

I have been reading the DIY trans links for some time. I still do not have a cohesive understanding of how these transmissions should shift (feel) when properly functioning.

What exactly are the limits of a verifiable flare?

My concern stems from well-timed, but often unnoticeable shifts characterized by an imperceptible change in RPM.

I routed the vacuum system at least twice, I believe I have the proper orifices in the correct spots and my VCV reaches within its stop limits @ WOT.

My next step is to take some vacuum measurements... where should I begin?

Find the line to the transmission. On the '85, it's probably coming from the blue flying saucer on the driver's fenderwell. Or, it could be coming from the VCV directly if it's an older build.

Get a vacuum gauge and T into this line. Route the vacuum gauge into the cabin and take it for a test drive. Observe the vaccum levels at various pedal positions........idle........1/4 pedal........1/2 pedal.........3/4 pedal........and full pedal.

Report back with results.

I can do that with the gauge on the Mityvac, correct?

And does the trans have to be @ OT?

Correct.

with the trans @ OT?

explain.......??

Will I need the trans @ operating temperature before I can take legitimate readings? Shifting changes after warm-up.

It would be preferable.......you'll need more pedal when the engine is very cold.

once warm:

throttle / vac (in.Hg)

0 / 15

1/8 / 10-12

1/4 / 7-9

1/2 / 6-7

3/4 / 5

full / 3

shifting is not very predictable in the upper ranges.

there may be a small exhaust leak pre-turbo.

jt20 - Let's make certain you have the correct vacuum diagram...
 

Jt20,
Let's make sure you are using the right 1985 W123 diagram... for Federal car:
http://www.peterschmidtransmission.com/vacuum/1977_1985/617_95/1984_1985.jpg
or for California car:
http://www.peterschmidtransmission.com/vacuum/1977_1985/617_95/1985_cal.jpg
for there is a considerable difference... and I hope you do NOT have a California car!!

As to having the precise color/size of orifice shown for your car, I'm inclined to not worry too much and IF you purchase any of these plastic orifices, concentrate on obtaining the small sizes: Here are the orifice color/sizes/pn(s) I have posted in POST #1 of this now very long THREAD: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/158216-its-critical-how-you-set-your-transmissions-vacuum-system-your-diesel-mbz.html

Color: I.D. P/N:
Yellow……2.0 mm..……..1162760929
Red……….1.1 mm….…….1162761029
Blue………1.0 mm…………1162761129
Brown……0.9 mm…..……1162761429
White……0.8 mm…………1162761229
Green……0.7 mm…………1162761329
Black.....0.6 mm......... ___?_____ **
?????.....0.5 mm......... ___?_____ **

** IF anyone knows these P/N(s) and the color of the 0.5mm orifice, pass it along to me and I will go back and revise my POST#1!!
Regards,

oh boy. Here we go.

I DO have a Cali. spec engine. Information about the .5 mm orifice is unobtainable with my set of abilities. I certainly have two orifices of the same color (cleari-ish, NOT black! = .6mm) which have an ID slightly greater than the other (orange = .5mm) orifice. I can only assume they are correct since no parts dealer or local dealership was of any help.

If these are the right sizes, then my vac system is doing well.

Those figures are fine. If the vehicle exhibits any sign of flaring, a small adjustment to the VCV can be made to reduce them a bit.

Does the vehicle have the blue flying saucer.......or does the line to the transmission go directly from the VCV?

blue UFO - saucer / vac amplifier

That's rather interesting. The amplifier is normally used to modulate the effects of the VCV..........tending to keep a level of 10" or so for most of the operation.......this is my observation on the 603's.

Your setup shows vacuum numbers that are quite typical of a straight VCV setup.

The bottom line is whether it flares or not. If not, you're good to go.

thats the original issue. I don't completely understand what flaring is. My rpms don't shoot up b/w shifts... but they certainly do not go down much. (except 1st-2nd)

from the Brotherton article:

The most important modification came with the 1985 model and is continued on all subsequent ones. It involved the addition of a vacuum amplifier to the system (see Fig. 7). The amplifier takes a large vacuum supply, the proportioning vacuum signal and a boost signal and creates the final signal to the transmission. This device did two things. First, it incorporated the input of boost to further tailor the load control of the modulator vacuum signal. The vacuum at the modulator now starts high - 12-17 in. - and is reduced to about five inches through straight throttle movement. As boost builds, the vacuum is further reduced to zero only at full boost.

You'll know flaring when you have it. The engine runs away in a "false neutral" during the shift and you'll immediately lift your right foot.

Sometimes, the engine will have a "soft" shift that takes 1/2 second or so......you can make an adjustment to firm it up and cause less wear on the clutches if you wish.

My main concern is wear. And the term is definitely 'soft'. Some shifts are 1/2 second to a full second. Is this a worn out trans. or poor regulation?

The question on the '85 is whether you can adjust it to bias the curve downward. Take a look on the underside of the amplifier. There should be a black port with a cover on it. Below the cover is a small plastic hex.........4mm, IIRC. Turn this hex fully clockwise and make the test again...........noting the vacuum levels at the various pedal positions.

I've got the adjustments on mine down to "as good as it gets" until I get the new springs in. I still have a 3-4 flare but I can avoid it totally if I make that shift manually. Around town, I just leave it in S.

... jt20 - I too have a Calif. 300SD [W126] under my care...
 

Jt20,
I too have a 1985 Calif. 300SD [W126] car that I watch over... and so once again I did a quick comparison between the 1985 Fed & Calif. models... and the Calif. model has 10 additional numbered components on it's diagram. The largest differences are that on the Calif. models there is a "CAT" in the car's exhaust system and a "controller"/computer!

It's no wonder there is another THREAD on our FORUM that was been dedicated to the matter of converting the Calif. models to the same as a Federal car! I must say my In-Law's '85 Calif 300SD certainly shifts a great deal better than my '80 240D... but then diagnosing a problem in the vacuum system will no doubt be far more complicated!! AS I see it there were so few of these cars with this far more complicated Tranny-Shifter system on them... thus you are not likely to ever see much definitive being written about these cars/systems

Regards,

BC - I have an adjustment on the VCV (driver's side) and the VacAmp. Is the cap you are referring to perhaps red-ish and has an MB logo in the center? Should I adjust one at a time - which one first?

Sam - I pray for you and that Cali. in so many ways.

Thanks again for your help fellas.

jt20... you are wise to stay with Brian on these newer cars...
 

jt20,

I have played around with these VCVs enough to know there are at least two different styles... and I think the newer one that you most likely have the adjustment is more readily recognizable... whereas the design on the older ones is not at all obvious. Tell us more about what you have... a digital photo would be nice... with the dome/cover removed! Did you removed it from the car... and is that how you found the adjuster feature?

No need to pray for me... for need is one hell of a motivator... and when I become fully responsible for our 85' W126 Cali car, I will be learing a lot about these extra components and maybe POST my ideas. Q - Doesn't your car have all the California car's components as shown on the "Cali"-diagram??

However in the mean time on your other matter, by all means you should stay with what advice Brian is giving you on these additional components that are only on the newer models... for I have NOT yet had much experience with them.... I just mainly know what I see when comparing the diagrams... and when I see the numerous differences that the 1985 California models have, I'm convinced that I will think long and hard and probably do everything I can to convert our 1985 CA W126 model to essentiall be like a 1985 Federal model... and IF/WHEN I do this, then I will no doubt learn a lot about the various components are and be in a better position to assess whether the California models' tranny-shifter vacuum control systems are worth saving.

My gut tells me the 1985 Federal models shift just as well as Calif models... so IF I can avoid public flogging and/or capital punishment here in "GREEN" "Calee"fornia, I'll probably go "FEDERAL" [not "POSTAL"] and sell off the extra California parts on Craigs LIST or Ebay to supplement my retirement income!!!

Regards,

Adjusted the VacAmp to fully CW.

Downshifting became a bit too harsh and vacuum was reaching 0 inHg close to 3/4 throttle. Afterward, I backed it off about 10*-15* CCW on the VacAmp.

I think its safe to say all fine tuning can be made on the '85 as you suggested, Brian. I am very satisfied with the results.

In glorious addition to the shifting benefits, my brake pedal finally stiffened up -- now that the VacAmp is consuming less. The whole time I thought I was prepping for a new Brake Booster.

Sam - when its warm out I will post pics of the components involved.

thanks again.

jt20 - I think you are in the home stretch.......!
 

jt20,
IF your vacuum "reaches 0 inHg close to 3/4 throttle" this could be caused by either:
(a) the orifice size you have in the vacuum line coming off the main vacuum pump -to- brake booster vacuum supply line,... this orifice is too small... or
(b) the VCV needs to be adjusted

My belief is that you should first change the orifice size and in your case make it larger by one or two sizes. This allows the pump to draw a stronger vacuum from the tranny-shifter system and this means the VCV will NOT bleed off as much the vacuum being seen by the tranny's vacuum modulator valve. Remember this vacuum control system is very "dynamic" with air flowing through it primarily because the VCV purposely allows air into it in order to do it's job of modulating the vacuum seen by the tranny's vacuum-to-hydraulic modulating valve!

The other alternative to adjust the VCV is a bit more abstract and thus tricky!

Regards,

You have a unique combination of a vac amp coupled with the VCV on a 617. That's the only year where it exists.

The effect that you got was much greater than what we usually get with the 603's using similar adjustments.

Glad it worked for you.

BTW, you might want to disregard the irrelevant posts on this thread..........

Irrelevant !... what's irrelevant ?...
 

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

When I was trouble shooting my problems, I spent a long time reading all the posts in this thread. I found very few that were irrelevant. It's one of the best threads on the forum. It was confusing however and it would help others if there was someway to sort this into multilple threads by model number: 617, 603, etc.

Thanks Charles...
 

Thanks Charles for trying to get this THREAD back on track and away from the "Politics of Personal Powa" by some! When I started this THREAD I did not contemplate such a need as you now propose... but later I did. This is why you will see the following title emblazoned at the top of POST #1 for as the author of that POST, I am able to go back and edit it to reflect such "after-the-fact" intent. Here is the title I inserted:
However in retrospect, maybe I should revise this title and thus my intent to include W123 only for the W126 Tranny-Shifter systems are largely the more complicated ones. Maybe I should change it to read W123 "Diesels" from 1977 to 1981... or 1982.
Thanks professor Charles! I vote to award you the President John Adams award!
Now IF we can get a clear explanation of how the spell-checker works for us here on this FORUM. Anyone who knows how to do this, please let us know!!
Regards

Where I would like this large and still growing THREAD to go…
 

[1] I would like this THREAD to be a “acrimony-free” zone… where personal attacks are either not allowed or are openly discouraged…and where opinions given in the spirit of “ IMHO ” give us free license to agree to disagree… where participants who snipe at one another are discouraged by others.

[2] Because of this THREAD’s unexpected popularity and now large size I intend to use my current authority as the originator of this THREAD’s #1 POST to create/insert and maintain a “quasi-table of contents” (TOC) within this THREAD. I see this TOC using http link addresses that will readily take the reader to the start of groups of POSTs within this THREAD or to other THREADs that are the subject of each line entry in the TOC.

In the spirit of the above expressed intent, of course I am open to OFF-THREAD/FORUM ideas from any of you wanting to share YOUR ideas as to how best design/craft such intent or your completely different ideas as well ! I would really like to hear your ideas as to how best to make the POSTs within this THREAD easier to follow... for e.g. as to how best have POSTers indicat what earlier POST they are directly responding to. All too often we fail to think of this simple, but important, step!

Regards,

Nature Abhors a Vacuum (300D) Epilogue
 

Folks,

Well, after some weather delays, I have adjusted the transmission modulator with the result that my login 'Rocketman' now makes sense as my old 300D is now a rocket. I now accelerate with authority and even downshift when going up a hill.

Between overhauling the vacuum system, setting the vacuum range properly and adjusting the modulator, the advice I received on this site has been just what the doctor ordered.

Lead on!

So, did you take the recommended advice and adjust the modulator by three turns clockwise?

Did that eliminate the flare on the 2-3?

Thanks Rocketman...
 

Congradulations Rocketman and thanks for reporting back the success of your project. You succeeded because of your attention to detail and you had enough tenacity to browse this now VERY LARGE THREAD for the information you needed. My hope now is to make this THREAD more user friendly with my "TOC" and/or index I posted above… and possibly to even spin off a “Wiki” that people can access and use!
Regards

Nature Abhors a Vacuum (300D) Epilogue Continued
 

BC,

The modulator on my machine turned out to be a little more sensitive that you expected. I ended up with about 1 turn CW to dial it in where it needed to be. I say about 1 because I dropped the d&5# key during the process and had to make my best guess as to its position before it fell.

Thanks for your input.

Thanks for the info. I need the feedback to help others in the same situation.

Did the modulator adjustment eliminate all flaring?

Ideas for easier to follow posts
 

[COLOR=darkorange]

Sam,
You are right it is very hard to respond directly to an older post without confusing readers and more often than not it keeps me from responding all together. I have found it to be confusioning when I am deeply engrossed in a meaty techincal post, only to be sidetracked by "posts" replying to older posts that were written 1, 2, maybe 4 pages back. (although I always come round to appreciate the effort and information contained in 99% of those posts)

Perhaps one way to make it easier to follow posts within this thread would be to color code your initial posts, using the same color any copy and pasted quotes you use within that same and following posts and anyone responding would also use the same color. One other thought is to always attach a title to each new post and following posts that includes pertinant information (year, model, engine model etc.). This could be accomplished if we completed a signature line. Perhaps the forum could make this a registration requirement.

I wholeheartedly agree with your insistance on knowing the model number of the transmission and engine model when starting off with problem solving. It is time saving. Maybe that should be the header of each post, the year model # engine# trans# and an attachment picture of the engine compartment.

Sam, thank you for all of your hard work and the countless hours you and everyone that adds to this amazing forum. I have learned so much from you all. As a result, I repair and maintain my little 240D all by myself. I am a 43 year old woman with three teenagers! I have always loved old cars and motorcycles...(own quite a few) and I love helping my Benz live alittle longer and go alittle bit faster.

Loose the orange text! :glasses2:

I think color coding will add to the confusion. Just a simple header with vehicle identification is probably the best.

I appreciate those that do their homework and reply to an old post rather than starting a new thread. The questions are mostly answered if you use the Google search thread. If not, do a reply to the old post with the best information available.

Response to: TraceyWiser's POST !
 

Tracey... I'm just funning you with the " hot pink/purple/Fuchsia " text above! Congradulations YOUNG lady for caring enough about your 240D to do your own DIYer wrenching! Also thanks for the compliments I think were sent my way. I'm fortunate to be able to type at ~100wpm but even at that I'm often torn between wanting to write more on this FORUM and wanting to get my hands into another project. I'm also fortunate to have an INDY shop MB mechanic who is now a good friend and we have partnered on what he considers "high-tech" stuff... like:
(a) a timing light system for our loveable diesels... and now
(b) a CP9150/9145 OBDII scanner.
I now almost always have my digital camera with me when I work on a car... and use it to document things just in case I find later that there is something worth writing about. I still plan on further improvements to this THREAD... things to make it easier for those who end up here and stay a while!
Regards,