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Old 07-11-2006, 01:20 PM
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Location: st paul, mn
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300sdl engine out - what do I replace?

My '86 SDL broke last winter while my wife was driving it. Apparently got starved for oil. The starter would barely turn it over and there was a REALLY loud screeching sound as it did turn (very slowly). Long story short, I have a replacement sitting in the garage. The head has been updated to a used #17, I will be separating the tranny from it and reattaching the one from the existing car.

ON the engine, I am planning on timing chain rails, rear main seal, tranny pump seal (the tranny leaks). I am really leaning toward a new oil pump, but I they are relatively expensive. Do they wear out, or does something else happen to stop them pumping? Is there a way to judge the condition of engine and tranny mounts or do I just go ahead and do them as a matter of course?

As long as the engine is out of the way I will do some front end component replacement. The boots on the tie rods as well as upper and lower ball joints are all bad - they will all be replaced (the joints, not the boots). What about the guide rods? I see some rubber bits on them too.
As per usual, thanks for all your insight, Andy

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'78 300d
'95 volvo 850, wagon
'86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June

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Old 07-11-2006, 01:30 PM
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If the tranny leaks at the front seal, it's probably because the bushing in the front pump is worn. It supports the backside of the torque converter. I would replace that bushing - it's about $10, and you'll need to replace the front pump gasket too. If you don't, your new seal will probably start leaking pretty fast.
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Old 07-11-2006, 01:43 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
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replacing all timing chain rails requires R&R the front timing cover. As long as you have the timing chain out you may as well replace w/ a new one and be done with that for another 200K+ miles
A new water pump maybe if the old one looks crummy (it has to come off to get the timing cover off) and a new belt tensioner would be recommended.
If the vac pump on the engine doesn't have 4 torque head bolts on the cover by all means get the new version which will not come apart like the old ones and destroy the engine.
I would keep the existing oil pump, they are very long lived. Some say to replace the chain that drives it however, I didn't on my 603 rebuild.
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Old 07-11-2006, 03:47 PM
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Vac pump is the newer type, I am set there. From advice thus far, it would be better to spend the $ on a new timing chain and leave the oil pump alone, right?
new water pump is a good idea, I had not even thought about that.
Thanks for the tip on the bushing at the transmission. -Andy

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'78 300d
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'86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June

whole bunch o' bicycles
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