It just isn't right-- My father and I removed it to have the alternator checked(good) a while ago and now the alternator is loose on the bracket.

The adjusting mechanism does not fully 'cradle' the more narrow alternator retaining 'tab' and that is where the loosness is coming from. I, for the life of me, can not figure out what I am doing wrong here! Is there a bolt on the inside of the adjusting mechanism that is supposed to hold the alternator still?

I would consult the skinnerbox site, but it seems like it isn't working anymore?

Thanks in advance!

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I'm not sure I understand the problem, however, the alternator will pivot freely on the pivot bolt until you apply tension with the tensioning bolt. The tensioning bolt is a 90 degree affair that uses one of the alternator mounting bolts with a threaded piece for tightening that bolt.

A photo would put this to rest.

I sort of assumed there would be poor communication wherever this is concerned, it is very difficult to describe this stuff!

I was concerned about overtightening the adjuster because I have read plenty of people relaying stories of overtightening and causing big problems with harmonic balancers and front engine seals etc etc..

I will go back outside, reinstall it and try to just tighten the adjuster and see if that solves it!

To clear up what I was describing-- The alternator has two mounting 'tabs' that the bolts go through to secure it to the upper bracket(adjuster) and the lower bracket(I believe it is connected to the engine) With both bolts secured tightly, the alternator moves freely about 1/2 to 3/4 inch and this causes it to charge sometimes, sometimes not- It also causes a very disturbing noise.

I can not imagine that I did not attempt to tighten the adjuster, but who knows-- I've done many things more forgetful than this!

Thanks!

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.......photo please.......

Be sure you have the lower bolt in place. It should be something like 5-6 inches long. It can easily be seen from under the car. Without this bolt, you will need to use all of the adjustment travel, and the belt will still be loose. The alternator will also be easy to move by hand if it's missing.

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1976 BMW 2002- 100k
1995 BMW 325i 175k
1984 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo Diesel- 270,000 mi

1981 Mercedes Benz 240D- Estimated 300,000+ mi Returned to the earth

I got it-- Brian was correct-- The tentioner needed to be turned to tighten the belt... It's repaired and charging correctly-- I am only angered slightly that it took me two R & R procedures to figure it out heh heh

The car is charging correctly now! yippie!

I will take a picture later and post it up with some arrows to mark wherever the travel is/was so folks may have an easier time at a later date!

The camera is wanting fresh batteries and i need to go to wal mart to get some

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Make sure you don't overtighten the belt. You'll bend the tensioning bolt and put too much force on the alternator and water pump. If the tensioning bolt begins to bend, you've gone too far.

If you can't easily get 5/8" deflection on the belts, they are too tight.

Everybody tends to overtighten them, but, I'll tell you that the belts will do a decent job even when they have 1" deflection in the center..............

There are three 17mm nuts that must be loosened (not removed) before just cranking away on the 13mm adjustment nut. Also there's a spacer dowel that slides over the "L" shaped bolt threads (inside the bracket) that alligns the alternator. It's easiest to install the alternator into the bracket and then install the entire package into the car when swapping alternators.

It's a rube-goldberg system that everybody hates. To permanently solve the problem, snap off the adjusting threads to the 13mm nut at the 17mm bolt head, then cut back the bracket to discard the tab arrangement and treat it as manually adjustable for tightening the belt - again relying on loosening and tightening of three 17mm nuts after adjusting position of the alternator in the bracket.

I found I needed to lossen this before i tensioned -- the one in line with the tensioner bolt that holds the tensioning bracket to the car -- so that this bracket can pivot freely. This allows the tensioner bolt to travel freely in the bracket without binding and bending the tesioner. This may be common knowledge. My theory is neglecting this causes the demise of many tensioners. Dont ask me how i know.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

The tentioner seems a little uh... how to put it delicately so's I don't offend...

Sillily designed.


I need a new one after this.. 'learning exercise' so, when that comes around-- I'll get out the paddles and jump-start this thread again so I don't gobber up a new one. The belt is WAY tighter than *I* think it should be, but we finished up with it right as the day was ending, so I'll play with it tomorrow and see if I can get some slack.

Thanks again!

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Most definitely........the tensioner is a POS. In fact, the aftermarket piece is so weak you can probably bend it with your own two hands.

........all the more reason to put MINIMAL TENSION on the belts. Trust me.......they won't slip unless they are brand new and stretch a bit.

Dont worry Neon, they carry racks and racks of the ridiculous "L" shaped bolt and silly 13mm adjust nut combos. Probly the single bolt on Mercedes Benz that has been replaced the most often, about $35 I think. Wonderful how an isolated feat of ridiculous engineering spawns its own cottage industry. Otherwise it can be snapped off, the bracket cut back below the tabs and the entire arrangement thrown into the bushes with no harm done to operation and adjustment of the alternator.