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  #16  
Old 07-13-2006, 02:48 PM
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true, but just eyeballing the 2 filters I have, the pleats look to be the same deepness and frequency.

one disadvantage I know of is that there is less volume of air between the filter and the turbo inlet which could exagerate turbo lag a very small amount.
However if I route the air tube differently and make it longer, I can regain some of that volume. But I'm not too worried about it.

the main thing is plumbing in the crank case vent to help ring seal.
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL
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  #17  
Old 07-13-2006, 03:15 PM
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Edit: Retract and delete statement after I realised I mis read your post.

Lengthening the tube will help reduce turbulence to the turbo's compressor wheel if you can keep it straight. This will up the efficiency of the compressor. To test turbos I think they use a straight pipe 8 diameters length before the inlet. This is not realistic for most cars. Some of the car companies are actually putting guide vanes in their tubes just be fore the turbo to reduce turbulence.
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Last edited by ConnClark; 07-13-2006 at 03:26 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-13-2006, 06:55 PM
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Where is my rpm sensor on my engine, the signal comes and goes at random?
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL
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  #19  
Old 07-13-2006, 10:14 PM
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as for the tach run a search on "cigarette". i have the same exact year and model as you do. i'm only going to say that trust everyone here, some of us have had our cars since they came from the factory we're all here about our cars and hoping to keep them running for as long as possibile. i have one question about the cone air filter: how much does it weigh? the stock filter weighs 1lb and 1 or 2 ounces i believe, i'll have to check i have one in the garage. but that also shows the about of paper and thickness it has to keep these engines sucking in air. personally i'm staying with my stock air filter its the reason my car has been around so long.
just my .02
-Steven
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  #20  
Old 07-13-2006, 11:25 PM
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I just got the same color 82 300sd and here is my first impresion

I love the 300sd. I started reading these post and decided I wanted one but wish I would have found an interior like yours! My carpet looks pretty good but the seats look bad and the drivers seat needs to be replaced.

It has about 250K, the old paint seems to respond pretty good to wax, the car starts and turns off every time you turn the key. The body is in decent shape with only a couple of small dings, a fairly deep quarter size dent but no real body problems or rust anywhere I could see (mid south)

On the bad side, It needs the rear window glass replaced (expensive), the drivers door makes a loud snap every time you shut it and it appears something is broken by the hinge, the a/c does not work, the transmission slips and does not handle hills very well.

The driver window and sunroof work fine but the other three windows do not move, the dash has a couple of long cracks. The instament panel works but does not light up, a few the trim pieces are broken and the wood is broken/missing in a couple of areas.

The brakes sometimes work good and sometimes are very soft and squeek and the car always runs loud when idleing.

It only cost a 1,000.00 but by the time I get the car looking and running good I may have been better off finding one in top condition because I am no mechanic past changing oil etc.

It's fun to drive on the hwy and preforms well, looks pretty good for an old car and I figure if it cost too much to fix up I can sell it for what I paid for it and start over.
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  #21  
Old 07-14-2006, 11:03 AM
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yeah, I'm really pleased with my purchase, I paid $1500 and then $268 to have it transported.

my drivers seat cushion sags toward the door - was wondering if this is an easy fix?

I need to get some adhesive to keep my console trim from falling off, and I noticed yesterday that my dash indeed has a cap on it. I'm not sure of the original dash's condition underneath. all depend on when and why the dash cap was installed.

I plumbed the crank case vent back into the intake last night.
really helped with the oil blowby. appearantly, low or neg. crank case pressure is very important on these 200k+ engines!

I'll take another pic soon.

oh, the weight of the filter is easily more than the stock filter.

for any interested I got all the parts at autozone for around $80.
I am not contending it is BETTER, only nicer looking, and less greasy.
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL
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  #22  
Old 07-14-2006, 11:22 AM
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Pool noodle fix.

Do a search.
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  #23  
Old 07-14-2006, 11:55 AM
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found it.

also read deiselgiants article.

found another wierd thing.

the transmission switch on top on the valve cover does not have ANY lines going to it. This must be where my trans vacuum line is supposed to go.

also, on the throttle sensor valuum thingy on the IP, the side port is just blocked off.

Attached are pics of the two vacuum things

and how my intake turned out.
Attached Thumbnails
1982 300D Turbo questions and comments-vac1.jpg   1982 300D Turbo questions and comments-vac2.jpg   1982 300D Turbo questions and comments-intake2.jpg  
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL
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  #24  
Old 07-14-2006, 09:56 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resago
I plumbed the crank case vent back into the intake last night.
really helped with the oil blowby. appearantly, low or neg. crank case pressure is very important on these 200k+ engines!
Check out this thread for vacuum diagrams:

Vacuum Diagrams

BTW, it looks like you have the vent connected directly to the air inlet without an oil separator, not a good plan because you will not recover any of your blow-by oil. Let us know how much oil your using. Also, you have very little vacuum in the intake of a diesel, your crankcase is running at about atmospheric pressure (as it should). You really need to lose that silly air filter and put the stock unit (with the oil separator) back on.
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  #25  
Old 07-15-2006, 12:27 AM
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those diagrams will definately help, thanks.

um, if the crank case pressure was at 1 Atm, nothing would be coming out, yeah?

mine happens to chug like a locomotive, and smokes if not connected like I have it now. My setup provides better evacuation than the stock. based on smoke output at the tailpipe.

I am recovering what splashes up, when enough oil accumulates, it drains back into the vent.

I'm not putting the old oily POS back on, its for sale if anyone is interested.
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL

Last edited by resago; 07-15-2006 at 02:27 AM.
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  #26  
Old 07-15-2006, 08:34 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resago
um, if the crank case pressure was at 1 Atm, nothing would be coming out, yeah?
The inlet tube is about atmospheric pressure, the crankcase would have a positive pressure if it wasn't adequately vented. Right now the crankcase pressure is slightly positive due to blow-by, which is pushing the oil vapor through the tube. Neither the crankcase nor the inlet ever have a significant vacuum, that's not how diesel engines work.

BTW, the stock oil separator is there for a reason. Do a search, we've been through this about 100 times already. The oil separator collects the majority of the oil from the vent and drain it back to the crankcase, your setup is putting all that oil through the turbo and intake manifold, which is a very bad idea. Apparently your stock setup wasn't working correctly, or your blow-by is excessive. In either case, keep the stock equipment, you will never be able to sell the car as-is. Good luck.
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  #27  
Old 07-15-2006, 10:18 AM
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I have significant blowby. My crankcase pressure is WAY positive. - at least without good evacuation.

The shiney thing on top of my engine collects the oil and lets it drain back into the vent at idle or after shutdown.

If there was not vacuum at the intake, the engine would not run. IE if the engine could not pull air into it, the fuel would never ignite.

are there any old hot rodders on this board? this is Int. Cumbusiton basics.

A deisel is only different at the power-stroke in that the injection of the fuel is also the ignition.

the only way I'm selling this car would be if it had some kind of catastophic problem and I couldn't afford to fix it, I would then sell it for parts anyway.

So, anyone want an air cleaner assembly?
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL

Last edited by resago; 07-15-2006 at 01:42 PM.
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  #28  
Old 07-15-2006, 03:03 PM
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can someone tell me where the trany modulator is so I can reconnect it

I've tried the search to no avail.

a picture would help.
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'82 Euro MB 300 D Turbo Silver/Blue - Fixed
Adding W115 Intake and Intercooler

1986 Chevy Camaro Cp 400HP For Sale
Engineer
Tuscaloosa, AL
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2006, 09:00 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by resago
If there was not vacuum at the intake, the engine would not run. IE if the engine could not pull air into it, the fuel would never ignite.

are there any old hot rodders on this board? this is Int. Cumbusiton basics.

A deisel is only different at the power-stroke in that the injection of the fuel is also the ignition.
I give up, can someone else try to explain the fact that diesels do not have throttle plates and do not have significant intake vacuum? Apparently I'm not doing a very good job of explaining this.
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2006, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig
I give up, can someone else try to explain the fact that diesels do not have throttle plates and do not have significant intake vacuum? Apparently I'm not doing a very good job of explaining this.

Could be a matter of semantics.

He's correct in the fact that the absolute pressure in the cylinder must be less than atmospheric pressure........so.......effectively there is a small vacuum on the intake stroke.

But, clearly the vacuum is nowhere near the typical gasser which must struggle to draw air past a throttle plate that is usually 60% closed.
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