1982 300D Turbo questions and comments
 

I am the pround new owner of a 1982 300D-Turbo.
PERFECT BLUE DASH!!!
Interior is in the Very Good category.

I notice my headlights are different from the norm?

My trans shifts hard, but I think it is because the P.O. removed the vac line to it :(

Am I mistaked, or do my door locks work off of Vaccum, I have vac lines running under my front mat going rearward.

The car doesn't have EGR - at all :silly:

Check out the attachments.

Look at my clean intake!!
"who wants to touch me.... I SAID WHO WANTS TO F***ING TOUCH ME!" - Cartman


I just need to plumb in the crankcase venting. I was suprised at how much the engine likes negative crankcase pressure:cool:

Ok to answer your questions.

The headlamps are different because they are euro spec and they offer better light output so id keep them if i were you!

If its the same as the SD the vacuum pump for the doorlocks is located in the spare wheel well in the trunk.

And your intake looks nice!! but some say it is bad, i dont know i was planning to do something similar to the SD with a fram paper filer but never got around to it.

That would make the transmission shift very hard.

Yes the door locks are powered by vacuum, the yellow lines are associated with the door lock system.

Where does that crankcase vent go now? Where are you planning on routing it? You may want to start looking for a stock air cleaner with an oil seperator.

It's not the same, there is a vacuum tank in the trunk (under the rear deck), but no pump.

I still have the original air cleaner. I am going to remove the oil can and mount it on the wheel hub and use high temp tube to run from the vent to the oil can to a nipple I have yet to plumb into the intake tube.

Why bad? its an air filter.

you know why the MB diesel cars lasted 20+ or more years? its because of the stock air filter that the "over-engineering" Germans installed. they installed an air filter that will do its job and filter the air that the engine will suck in. the reason why aftermarket performance filter is not good for our diesel engine is:
1. if you notice, the high air flow through these filters, just like what you have, higher air flow means dirty air. which is almost unrestricted air flow, means, unfiltered air flow. its is not really the filter element that is filtering but the oil in the filter. therefore it is more effective when the filter is already full of dust and dirt to properly filter the air.

2. those type of filters are designed for gas engines and not for diesel engines like we have.

if you're lucky, you haven't damaged your engine cylinder walls yet.
i didn't mean to scare you but its just a warning.
so, if i were you and you want to keep your car to earn more miles, i'd put the stock air filtration system back.

not for the sake of argument, but I would think a filter with more surface area can flow more and filter the same.

I might try to cal K&N and ask about airflow and filtration about the 2 models.
They should be able to answer the important questions.

can you explain the difference of air requirements between a gas engine and a diesel?

well, i'm not an expert so i'm not the right person to ask. but from what i remember, diesel engine requires more air than a gas engine because of the higher fuel/air mixture requirements for diesel burners. plus the fact that our cars are equipped with a turbo charger which aspirates the air intake suction. but it doesn't mean that our engine is requiring the use of such "high flow performance air filters." i am not saying that don't use it! it is your car, so it is your call and decision. i'm only saying that if i were you, and if it is my car, i'm going to use only the stock air filter.

if you don't mind me asking, what is the difference of the stock filter and the high flow filter, perfomance wise, and fuel/mileage wise? do you notice any difference? is you car faster? more miles per gallon? if you have high flow filters on since 1982, do you think you car is still running until today? and now that you have it on, do you think your car will still run for another 5 to 10 years.

well theres only one way to find out!

Well, from a purely gearhead point of view, anything that helps the engine breath easier (not more) makes it more efficient. As long as the filter can block particulates of a specified size and allow air to move through it at the same time, the engine will be happy.

1982 was a long time ago - technologicaly speaking. They engineered the best filter they could with available technology. Today, the cone or box filter is prevalent. Look at the filters Gale Banks uses on their 1500HP Diesels.

The stock airfilters for these cars flow incredibly well because they have a large amount of surface area. By sticking a cone filter on your car you have reduced the surface area of the filter to about half of what it was or probably less. True square inch for square inch your new filter will probably flow more, however reducing the surface area of the filter offsets a large chunk of any gains seen in air flow and it will not filter anywhere as good.

perhaps you better read this report on filters http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

If you still insist on using a K&N filter, they make one for the stock air cleaner on these cars. The stock aircleaner slows the air and increases the air pressure (Bernoulli's Principle) allowing for more air to be passed through the filter. The stock aircleaner also allows you to run a cold air intake instead of sucking in air thats just been through the radiaitor.

The only real advantage your intake has is it has a near straight path to the turbo inlet reducing turbulence.

go back to the stock air cleaner. Do some 0 to 60 runs with an air filter then do some 0 to 60 runs without. You won't see much of a difference if any.

diesels suck in all the air they need and more.. put your hand near the air intake while its ideling.. ive never felt a gazzer suck in air like a diesel

My car wants to smoke at red lights. more so when its warmed up.
Its oil smoke. seeing as how cumbustion pressures are lower sitting at a red light than running, Am I correct in assuming that is more likely leaking through the valves?

This is not related to the intake, same behavior before and after.

A little math.


K&N
round filter
outside diameter - 11.25in
Height - 4.25in

cone filter
outside diameter - 6in
Length - 8in


circumference is D*Pi
outside area is circumference * height

area of stock filter is 11.25*3.14*4.25 = 150.1 in sq
area of cone filter is 6*3.14*8 = 150.7 in sq

Interesting article on different OEM filters and foam vs. paper.

Thanks,

Your neglecting the thickness and number of pleats.