Are Body Parts from a W123 79 300D compatible with those for a 85 300D? Will they fit?

I am getting ready to paint my car, and the thought occurred to me that I could buy the fenders, doors, trunk and hood from a 79 at a nearby junkyard and practice on those over and over until I get them right.

And if I ever do, I can just stick them on my car. And if i dont, I can call MAACO and have them do the job without ruining my car...

that's what I am doing for my 67 camaro, with a old firebird.
they look very close to the same, so I bet they are identical. but there could be some minor body lines that don't line up. the practice part sure makes sense though.
John

Camaro and Firebird body panels are not identical. Minor shape difference and different bolt patterns. A friend of mine had the same idea when he picked up a 68 firebird ragtop. Front clip was damaged, but frame and suspension were fine. Found a 68 camaro front clip-did not bolt up. If you want to retain value for the old Camaro, find same year body panels. Hemmins is a good choice and look for first year offerings also. There are ads for catalogs for classic Camaro parts.

On the '79 to '85 300D body panels...they should fit since the it is the same body style, but MB could have changes attach points, etc. It would be best if you could have a panel removed from each year car for comparison. You could also ask the MB dealer who does thier body work and then ask those folks.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Rich-

Yes 79 front fenders will fit BUT you will have a devil of a time getting them off the donor car because they sprayed that wonderful indestructable undercoating on them and it GLUES the top edge where it meets the inner fender (along the hoodline). You will need a torch or heatgun to loosen that stuff. I have never been able to cut this with a knife.

I tried and tried to get a perfect set of W116 fenders (same deal). No can do in a upullit without help. I don't know how user-frindly the upullit guys in NJ but here they don't bother to help.

Better look for a later donor car with plastic inner liner. 82 and later for sure, perhaps earlier. No "glue" on those where it matters.

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Also, if one's a Euro, the antenna is on the front fender, far side. The rest should bolt on fine, it's just removing the old one.

I remember seeing a fellow member's fuel door on his 84 Euro, it was made differently than my 83 US. Mine had the metal folded in, his didn't.

Don't forget to grab the plastic wheel well covers.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Look at the EPC and the service book. If you are only practicing it shouldn't matter what body panel you are using. Rather than practicing over and over and wasting that expensive paint, see if you have a friend in the paint and body business. Having an expert to call on will make the paintjob go much easier. It is amazing what you can learn from a knowledgable individual instead of reading all the DIY paint and body books out there. I am sure you have already discovered that the painting is the easy part. The hard part is all the preparation and body work. Good Luck.

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Doug

1987 300TD x 3
2005 E320CDI

I'll second this warning. It is a major major PITA to remove those fenders, and I'll never ever do it again...ever. I pulled them from my '78 parts car, with the intention of installing the RF unit on my '84. Ended up tweaking that one in the process. Don't go there!

To practice painting, spray on cardboard sheets. Lets you get your pattern down. When painting, keep a roll of paper towels handy as an instant eraser if you start to get a run. Wipe the run off and try again.
3/4 of painting is the prep. Make sure the panel is oil free by wiping down with laquer thinner or something, then blow completely dry with air before painting. Use the right reducer for the air temperature, there is cold, medium, and hot. If you are outside in the sun consider hot, the setting mentioned is for inside a body shop spray booth (no sun). Be sure your air is dry to prevent orange peel. I leave the compressor in the garage, with a dryer in there, then a 50' hose out to the yard, with another dryer OUT There, then a 25' clean (never used with air tool lubricator) hose. The air cools in the 50' hose and the last bit of water falls out.
Use a respirator, and if using epoxy, forced air respirator. Your brain is a useful thing. The paint store sells respirators. Activated carbon filters are adequate for acrylic, but not for epoxy. I've started mixing hardener in the acrylic, it makes for a nicer shine. Don't use cheap reds or purples, my candy apple red metallic faded to box car brown in one year. Cheap White and black are okay, titanium is cheap and so is carbon.