From the posts I've found here, sounds like many people go with the expensive Behr radiator, but has anyone tried an OEM radiator? My 82 300TDT needs a new one (overheating badly in hot weather, up hills and with AC on. already did thermostat, no luck.) Scared of the hefty pricetag, but also wary to not do it right.
thanks

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1982 300TD, 265k
1984 300D, 282k

We installed a Nissens radiator on ours. Still does fine.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

thanks for the reply
i think the Nissens are also about $500?

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1982 300TD, 265k
1984 300D, 282k

Behr is the OE radiator and is also the OEM radiator. I don't believe you'll find any other OEM for radiators.

Nissens is aftermarket.

If I was going to purchase a new radiator, I'd seriously consider one from these guys:

http://www.wizardcooling.com/


BTW, did you remove the radiator and thoroughly clean it with a proper condenser cleaner and compressed air?

Many folks condemn a perfectly good radiator because it's clogged with debris that they cannot see with the radiator in the vehicle.

Fastlane has the Behr radiator for $336.28 and the Nissens for $276.15.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Brian, what is "a proper condenser cleaner?" Is there some special gook that's good for cleaning the outside of radiators? I had thought that a pressure washer might work well.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

The radiator has very fine passages between the tubes. I don't believe any device.......pressure washer.......air compressor.........can maintain sufficient velocity through the tubes to push all the debris out the opposite side.

I have not attempted a pressure washer........and would be appreciative to find out how it does........but I have my doubts because you'll need to keep the pressure way down so that you don't bend the fins. The result will probably be unsatisfactory.

There are commercially available products that are designed for cleaning of condensers. This is what is required for that task. I have not used one yet, but the SD is now creeping up toward 100°C. on a regular basis, so, a cleaning is definitely in my future.

If you attempt it, hold the radiator up to the sun. Look in between the fins. You'll immediately see the task at hand. Good luck. It's not an easy endeavor and complete success is not ensured.

thanks for ideas on cleaning the radiator.
since i don't have the tools or confidence to try the cleaning myself (or time right now as a busy mom with a 1 1/2 year old) I asked a reputable MB mechanic today if he thought I oughta have him try cleaning it out. he said he thought not, that they're hard to clean and not worth the trouble.
cleaning sounds sensible to me, but i realize not a guaranteed fix. wondering if its worth pressing with him. he is going to take the time to drop another radiator in and let me drive around with that to see if the radiator is in fact the problem before i spend the money on a new one. this seems really fair.
(i have new thermostat but overheat up to 120 on big hills, long grades. on hot days, temp stays between 90-102 in town. trying to take good care of this old car!)

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1982 300TD, 265k
1984 300D, 282k

Nope, not worth pressing him, and, he won't spend the time to do the proper job. If you are going to a mechanic, then just purchase a new radiator and let him drop it in.

If he is giving you another radiator, of questionable condition, any data that you obtain will be compromised.

If you can look at the radiator, prior to the install, take it and hold it up to the sun and peer between the fins. If you see any foreign material that blocks the passages in any way.........you can simply forget about installing that radiator.

Again, the passages between the fins are very small and they accumulate debris over time and reduce airflow significantly.

I've always wanted to try a pipe cleaner on the radiator and see how it worked.

I agree that if you put your blow gun from your air compressor at the radiator and do your best, You'll work up a sweat and get very little done. Believe me I've tried. HOWEVER, I know that you can get better results with a LOT more airflow. Years ago, I was the plant engineer in a corrugated box shop. We had about 4 Clark forklifts. They would be run until they overheated and stopped. The lead mechanic would blow the cardboard dust out of the radiators with a GARDEN HOSE connected directly to the shop air supply, which was pretty substantial. It cleaned out those radiators, boy. When I asked him why he wasn't using a safety nozzle, he laughed - "that won't work, I don't have time for that s-"

Next time I try to clean my radiator, I'll use something in between - maybe a 3/8" hose to my 40 gallon, 2 stage compressor.

Sometimes, you really DO need a BFH.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

Being that the availability of such a rig is very limited, I'd be more inclined to see what results can be obtained using water pressure. The nature of water........ejected at very high speed........can do wonders. But, managing it so that the leading edge of the fins are not damaged will be a challenge.

I still need to find some chemical condenser cleaner and try it out on the SD............soon...........

A straight cut-off hose on a mid size compressor is of limited availability? Water has more momentum, but it also introduces surface tension limitations.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

The typical compressor.........one of which I possess.........is a 2 hp unit with a 20 gallon tank...........you'd be there all day.

I'm not sure if your unit will have the capability for what you're trying to accomplish. You need a lot of CFM at high pressure.

My point is that high flow, even for short bursts, will do the job. Those forklifts were blown out about once a week. Corrugated dust is as bad or worse than road scum. Add oil and water vapor mist, it could plug just about anything. A standard safety nozzle limits flow velocity, that's why it's a safety nozzle. I'm sure Brian already knows, but for anyone else reading this, if you use a straight hose - WEAR EYE PROTECTION!

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

thanks for all the input. Brian thanks for the feedback about mechanic's loaner radiator. makes sense.
you guys are really making me want to try cleaning it. maybe i'll look for a rental air compresser and try it. i know there are a lot of bugs in it just since i've owned it and been on a couple road trips through farm country (bug country).

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1982 300TD, 265k
1984 300D, 282k