I have a 1984 300SD turbo diesel that ran hot last night; it got into the hot area before I could pull over. I but some coolant and water into the radiator, and was able to make it home. When I checked this morning all of the coolant was gone. I put some more in, and this time noticed a steady leak coming from somewhere underneath. I am thinking that it is the water pump. I am a newbie and a girl Is replacing the pump difficult? My husband will actually do the work, but he is not mechanically inclined and unfortunately, we can't really afford to take this to a shop.

I have removed the radiator, but I can't get the fan off.

Please help

Well, don't condemn the water pump without locating the source of the leak. You could be doing a lot of work for nothing.

When the pump seal goes, the pump will leak quite a bit of coolant via the weep hole on the underside of the pump. The coolant will appear beneath the vehicle, just behind the radiator.

But, check to be sure you don't have a lower hose leaking..............

Changing the pump is not difficult, but, you will struggle with the four mounting screws for the fan unless you make a box wrench with a ground off tip to fit the screw heads. An open end wrench can sometimes be used, but, it's a crapshoot........sometimes you round the fasteners.

Jelly,
Your husband should be able to replace a water pump - it is easily accessible and not prone to tolerance issues like valves or cylinder heads.

I haven't done an SD water pump, but plenty of others - I'm sure you are on the right track.
Radiator removal for space and to prevent damage.
Loosen all belts from fan pulleys.
Remove fan clutch and fan from pump.
Carefully clean the pump mating surfaces with a wire toothbrush/scraper - be careful with scraper not to gouge.
Install new pump with RTV hi-temp silicon gasket sealer.
Replace fan/clutch, radiator and hoses. Refill with 50/50.

Good luck,
John

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John Hughes, was in Landstuhl, Germany but currently in San Antonio, TX


1978 280CE Astral Silver now 59,xxx miles and counting "Silber-Kugel"
1986 300E Black Pearl Metallic 143,xxx miles 5-spd daily driver w/ blk leather "Schwarz-Schönheit"
1989 190E 2.6 (euro) 5-spd Desert Taupe 112,xxx kms Had to leave behind in Germany!!! "Helga"
1983 300D Pastel Beige now 312,xxx + miles SOLD

OBK#24

Post where you are located, there might be a member close that could help you out.

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2000 C230 Kompressor "Frosty"

2007 PT Cruiser
2001 VW TDI Beetle
1999 Landrover Discovery II
1971 Corvette

Gone: 97 Cabrio, 83 240D, 93 VW Eurovan, 95 Volvo 850, 93 Chevy Astro Van, 77 VW Bus, 99 VW Jetta, 74 VW Bus

I am located in Mascotte, Florida, which is north of Clermont.

I have started to strip the screws, I bought and extra 10 mm combination wrench. I am in the processing of filing it down so that it is thin enough to fit.
(I know I am probably going about this the wrong way, but I am using a metal filer to do the job)

Not using your nail file, I hope.

LOL No I am using a metal "tool type" file

You are on the right track. A small bench grinder would do the job in about 60 seconds, but, lacking that, the file may work for you. If it's a real cheap wrench, the steel may not be all that hard.......otherwise.......you'll be there all day.

Once you have one ground down that works you want to keep it in your "special tool place". If you can get the shroud out without pulling the fan out then I know ya'll can change the water pump if necessary. Inspect the hose between the water pump housing and block to insure that it is still good.

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Jim

I took your advice and filed down the box head end of a wrenc. BUT the first fasters got rounded off. Luckly the wrench was very cheap and it did'nt take me all day to modify. I was able to use the wrench to remove the other 3. Does anyone have any idea how to removed the "rounded" fastener?

Try using small, long nosed vise grips or cut it off.

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Jim

I seem to recall some success with the large 10" vice grips. They have a massive grip force and, although you can't move the fastener much due to the size of the jaw, all you need to do is crack it loose and the open end wrench will finish the job.

im in davenport

send me a pm... im kinda close i think..

Thanks everyone,

We end having to use the saw-all to cut the fasteners, but we were finally able to install the new water pump. It lost like the metal Mercedes label came lose and some how cause the water pump to fail. Anyway, we got it put back together it only has 3 screws instead of 4 holding the fan, but it seems to be working fine.

I watched the temp on my way in to work; no leaks and it did not run hot.

I do have 1 quick question, what is that black oil type stuff that comes out of the metal radiator connections? Is it oil? Or transmission fluid? A lot leaked out and I probably should put some more in.

Again Thanks

Did you happen to remove the oil cooler when you removed the radiator?

The oil cooler is bolted to the radiator and has two very large (25mm) nuts that hold the oil lines to the cooler. These nuts are usually very difficult to remove without damage. It's normally preferable to unbolt the oil cooler from the radiator.

The radiator itself has two small connections at the very bottom for the transmission fluid. The fluid is a dull red color.........not black.