Has anyone ever rebuilt the head for a 300 SDL?? If you have could you tell me how you did it, and what parts you need??

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All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic

I always pay to have my heads rebuilt.... I like them preasure tested and
decked.... which i am not capable of doing.

I always replace my valve guides and it requires a professional to press those in. Your actually suppose to freeze them in nitrogen and then press them in. You can probably not do this...

You can replace your valve guide seals with the head still on the engine this is a modified rebuild.... and you could probably replace your valves and valve guide seals on your own... but you would wind up spending more money... because the valves cost 50 bucks each so there would be big bucks right there.

The last head I had rebuilt I had napa do it... they decked and preasure tested and cleaned and ground the valves. Also cleaned the whole head as well. The repleaced the valve guides and seals all for 250 bucks... They measured the valves and cam and found them to be reuseable....

So if I were doing a diy i would want to replace valves and seals.... and that would cost as much as what napa did.... so i think your better off farming this job out..

I've done a couple, but not on the 603. Yet.

Here's what to do.

Remove the head.

Buy valve guides
Buy intake valves
Buy exhaust valves
Buy valve guide seals

Take the head to a machine shop, with the parts.

Pick up completed head a week later.

See. DIY is not at all that hard.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

what is the easiest way to remove the head?? What tools will I need?? also, has anyone ever shaved a head on this engine to get more power??

__________________
All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic

you remove the head bolts with a ratch and a 9 point sutd i believe... or 12 point i cant remember....

has anyone ever shaved a head on this engine to get more power??

That increases the compression ratio, is it at the optimum already?
Or increase the waste gate pr.

Remember reading the non turbo and Turbo on 300D has a 0.5 difference of CR. Turbo is lower.

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Almost ALL diesel engine cylinder heads are already perfectly flat decked with no combustion chamber volume in the head in the gasser sense (except for the prechamber of course). There is no increase in compression ratio to be obtained by further milling the head.

In any case, the 20-something-to-one compression ratio of indirect injected Diesels is already well above what is thermodynamically optimal. Among other factors, the recent trend have been towards REDUCING compression ratios in Diesels. Some of the latest TDI engines have CRs ranging from 16.5-18:1. The lowest I have seen for a passenger car Diesel is Toyota's excellent and acclaimed 2.2L D4-D with 180 HP. It has a compression ratio of "only" 15.8:1. Honda and Nissan's new 2.2L Diesels are similar (in the neighbourhood of 16.5:1 I think)

If you want to optimize efficiency in the M-B Diesel, make sure the engine is first of all mechanically sound with good results on a compression test. It doesn't matter how high the compression ratio is if it's losing compression through the rings or something. Make sure the injectors are all popping at in-spec, consistent pressures with a good spray pattern. There's some gain by advancing the injection timing to near the upper spec limit, and also adjusting the cam timing, which will shift the torque curve depending on how you tend to drive (retarding cam timing helps high RPM at the expense of the lower-end, and vice-versa). And make sure the valve lash clearances are properly set. When all this is done, you might consider turning up the fuelling screw on the injection pump to get a bit more pep.

It's a special 603 bolt tool.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

12 pt. 10mm tool. You should be able to find it at any local auto parts store for between $6-$10. You'll also need to get the slide rail pins out with a long bolt and stack of washers or nuts that fit over the pin, but not the bolt you'll use to pull the pin out. Should be able to get long bolt at autoparts store too. Thread size was same as bolt holding plastic fan to clutched pully.

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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)

Nope.

You can buy them almost anywhere. I believe they call it a "triple square"

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

the guys here love to pick on me... i am always the brunt of all the jokes..
but i have taken off a few heads with my 12 point stud i bought at auto zone in a box of studs for 5 bucks...

also I am even more evil becasue I reuse my head bolts......

Don't forget letting NAPA work on your heads.

Just out of curiosity, how does one replace the valve guide seals without taking the head off the engine?? I thought that the head would have to come off the engine and I was going to get the valves and guides done at the same time.

__________________
All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic

unfortunately, they don't have a valve kit for a 603 engine.

__________________
All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic

dieselgiant dot com
i believe has a diy on replaceing the valve guide seals....

believe it or not it is possible in a mercedes to replace them without taking the head off.....

So before you crack into this thing lets do some thinking.

1. do a compression test. Go to harborfreight dot com and get a cheap compression tester.....

2. do you have water in your oil or oil in your water.....yes or no

3. what symptoms are you experiencing.....


If your just loosing some oil and have some smoke on startup but your compression is good and you have no oil in the water or vise versa. Then you should just replace the valve guide seals and leave the head alone for now.

You will also want to do a valve job.... dieselgiant also has the diy for that.. its part of the valve guide replacements.

You may also want to check your timing chain... believe it or not the most important thing about a timing chain is the guides. You can check the strech in the timing chain and put in a woodruff key, and perhaps replace the timing chain guide. Or if you really want to go ahead and replace the timing chain but remember the guide is more important.....

You do all that and you probably want need to touch your head...