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  #1  
Old 07-15-2006, 07:21 PM
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1984 300D - Some Questions

Greetings all.

I just purchased a 1984 Mercedes 300D and I have a few questions about it.

I bought the car from my boss, who knows a little about diesel engines, but he says he's not as knowledgable about the older ones.

I know next to nothing about car engines, but I have a friend who can help me if anyone here can give some insight.

1. When I begin to accelerate, it takes about 4 seconds for the engine to actually respond to the pedal. The car will roll forward, as most cars do when they are in drive, but the engine will not accelerate until about 4 seconds after I press the pedal. My boss thinks the turbo is going out, but I'm not sure. Driving in the "S" (sport?) gear helps a little, but not much. Any ideas?

2. The A/C blows air but does not get cold. What could be the cause of this, and how much would you guys estimate it would cost to repair? I live in Fort Worth, TX and it's freaking 105 degrees here LOL.

3. How the heck do you change the radio station? It's got the original factory radio in it, but I can't get the station to tune at all. I've tried every button (I think). Am I missing something?

Thanks for any help anyone could provide.

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  #2  
Old 07-15-2006, 08:33 PM
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Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
The A/C blows air but does not get cold. What could be the cause of this, and how much would you guys estimate it would cost to repair?
There are too many possible causes to list......

I just completely rebuilt my A/C. New compressor, parallel flow condenser, exp valve,
dryer, pressure/temp switches, several custom built hoses and R-12. Total investment
about $450 and about 4 hours labor. 40-45 degree vent temps at 100F ambient.

If you want to keep your stock condenser, you can do this for about $300, assuming
your CCA and push-button unit is good. The condenser upgrade is well worth it.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2006, 09:20 PM
dkveuro's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
...............................................
1. When I begin to accelerate, it takes about 4 seconds for the engine to actually respond to the pedal. The car will roll forward, as most cars do when they are in drive, but the engine will not accelerate until about 4 seconds after I press the pedal.

Thanks for any help anyone could provide.

You will need to adjust the ALDA on top of the injection pump.
This gives the needed increase in acceleration fueling to build torque and then boost pressure.


A very, very rare problem is the torque convertor with a siezed stator.....this causes no torque multiplication at low rpm's. (A feeling like pulling away in 3rd gear at very low rpm's.)



.
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2006, 09:31 PM
crashone's Avatar
1983 300SD, 4 speeed
 
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Check/ clean the banjo bolt.
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2006, 09:59 PM
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Thanks for all your replies.

As for the A/C, an inspection of the components by my car-savvy friend showed that all the componets appeared to be in proper working order. There was a receipt in the glove box for an a/c recharged, dated in 1998. So I'm going to try a recharge first.

Quote:
You will need to adjust the ALDA on top of the injection pump.
This gives the needed increase in acceleration fueling to build torque and then boost pressure.
What is an ALDA and how do I adjust it? LOL

Quote:
Check/ clean the banjo bolt.
What is a banjo bolt? LOL

Sorry guys, I don't know much about engines at all (and even less about foreign engines). Is there an online resource to find this information?

Thanks again for your replies, and any other insight is welcome.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2006, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
So I'm going to try a recharge first.
OK, please report back and let us know how it works out. I'll bet a can of R-12 that whoever you get to 'recharge' puts heavy pressure on you to convert your system away from R-12.

Think twice before before 'converting' or moving to any of the junk refrigerants....
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2006, 11:02 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Tim,
I know an absolutely great MB-only mechanic in Colleyville. Honest and reasonable. Not cheap, reasonable. You simply can trust what he tells you.
Let me know...

BTW, on your radio, does the antenna come up?
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2006, 12:08 AM
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
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Quote:
OK, please report back and let us know how it works out. I'll bet a can of R-12 that whoever you get to 'recharge' puts heavy pressure on you to convert your system away from R-12.

Think twice before before 'converting' or moving to any of the junk refrigerants....
I have a mechanic who is a friend of mine who does A/C work and won't bug me too much... besides, I make a whopping $200 per week and can't afford to do anything major to the car.

Quote:
Tim,
I know an absolutely great MB-only mechanic in Colleyville. Honest and reasonable. Not cheap, reasonable. You simply can trust what he tells you.
Let me know...

BTW, on your radio, does the antenna come up?
I'll get back to you on that. I have a guy here in Lake Worth who I have used since I was old enough to drive (I'm 23 now) and I'm sure he'll help me out.

However, if he won't work on my car, I might go with your Colleyville guy.

As for the antenna, from what I have observed so far (I got the car at about 2pm today, so haven't had it for long) it has it's own mind... it's the luck of the draw when I push the antenna button. I got it to go all the way up, then down, then back up, and now it won't move LOL.

Not too big of a deal, though.
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2006, 06:22 AM
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Can anyone tell me how to adjust the ALDA or a source where I can find that information?

Thanks
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  #10  
Old 07-16-2006, 06:40 AM
Jim B.'s Avatar
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Congrats on the new car!!!

Before replacing the antenna, if it actually came all the way up, maybe it needs to be lubricated. If you can get them, and want to splurge a bit, get Hirschmann antenna wipes and wipe once a week. Don't use WD40 because it will attract dirt to the antenna and muck it up eventually.

Is it the factory Becker radio? They are not one of the strong point for these cars. Maybe there was the factory MB radio pamphlet that came with the car to help you understand the operation of the unit? If not, maybe one could turn up at ebay or a MB junkyard; better yet, there are any number of Alpine and other aftermarket units that will fit in pretty nicely.

Keep with the original R12 refrigerant in the car, the R134 or other substitutes do NOT perform as well in your car, and the cost to convert is not worth it.

For what it's worth, the Becker radio and the Air conditioning are the 2 most common weak points of these older Mercedes, so you didn't get a lemon car, just one with typical issues.

Your particular car is one of the very best Mercedes models out there, so without knowing more, I think-and many here would probably agree with me- that you have just acquired one really nice car, and if you can keep up with the routine service and repairs, the car will last you to intergalactic mileages!

Theswe are really, really good cars!
__________________
1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2006, 07:25 AM
ImBroke's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
Can anyone tell me how to adjust the ALDA or a source where I can find that information?
Thanks

I could tell you, or you could just search, and find so much information that your head will have a tendency to explode. This forum is the best source of information you'll ever receive for free. Spend some time reading, and you'll be speaking Mercedes in no time. Not trying to be a smart butt, just trying to help ya out. Welcome aboard, and enjoy your Mercedes.
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2006, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Before replacing the antenna, if it actually came all the way up, maybe it needs to be lubricated. If you can get them, and want to splurge a bit, get Hirschmann antenna wipes and wipe once a week. Don't use WD40 because it will attract dirt to the antenna and muck it up eventually.
I just may do that, but I will probably leave the antenna up permanently. Most modern cars don't use electric powered antennas anyways

Quote:
Is it the factory Becker radio? They are not one of the strong point for these cars. Maybe there was the factory MB radio pamphlet that came with the car to help you understand the operation of the unit? If not, maybe one could turn up at ebay or a MB junkyard; better yet, there are any number of Alpine and other aftermarket units that will fit in pretty nicely.
I figured out how to operate it, it was in the owner's manual. I am the typical guy... I hate reading directions LOL. I'm planning on replacing the entire sound system anyways with a cd player and some new speakers. Circuit City is selling what I want for a total of about $250 - $300 for everything. And they seem to offer a VERY wide range of players that will fit the car. Go figure - I had more trouble finding a CD player for my 1999 Ford Explorer than I did for this car.

Quote:
Keep with the original R12 refrigerant in the car, the R134 or other substitutes do NOT perform as well in your car, and the cost to convert is not worth it.
I've gathered that reading the posts on this forum. I am already prepared for the almost inevitable line of bull***** from a mechanic about how I should covert the system. I have no plans in doing so.

Quote:
For what it's worth, the Becker radio and the Air conditioning are the 2 most common weak points of these older Mercedes, so you didn't get a lemon car, just one with typical issues.

Your particular car is one of the very best Mercedes models out there, so without knowing more, I think-and many here would probably agree with me- that you have just acquired one really nice car, and if you can keep up with the routine service and repairs, the car will last you to intergalactic mileages!

Theswe are really, really good cars!
After driving it for awhile, I'm conviced I got a good deal. This is going to be my project car. I am paying my boss (a personal friend of mine) $1000 for the car as is.

Quote:
I could tell you, or you could just search, and find so much information that your head will have a tendency to explode. This forum is the best source of information you'll ever receive for free. Spend some time reading, and you'll be speaking Mercedes in no time. Not trying to be a smart butt, just trying to help ya out. Welcome aboard, and enjoy your Mercedes.
Before I learn to speak Mercedes, I should learn how to speak German, so I can read all the freaking lables under the hood .

As for the ALDA, I'll keep up my searching, but I am also going to purchase a service book on the car. I would assume the process would be in there, complete with pictures.

Here is my planned list of fixes and improvements:

1. New CD player and 4 new speakers.

2. Reupholstery of the 2 front seats. Amazingly, the back seat is in very good condition for it's age, as is the headliner and sunroof (there is not a bit of rust on the entire car).

3. Finding a way to make the dashboard / instrument cluster lights brighter. How the heck did anyone deal with this in 1984? It's just as dark now as it was then LOL.

4. Fixing the A/C (preferably as soon as possible, since it is averaging 105 degrees during the day right now, but if I need a whole new A/C system, I'll have to save and have it done before next summer). I'm going to try the recharge first.

5. Fix the acceleration problem, hopefuly as simple as adjusting the ALDA, if I can figure out how . I also plan to take a look at all the filters on the car. I have no idea when they were last replaced.

6. Possibly buy a new instrument cluster altogether, as the fuel guage occasionally bounces around, and is hopefully inaccurate, because when I drove it home today from Irving (about 30 miles), the guage showed that I used about 1/4 tank of diesel, which I know is wrong. I haven't driven it long enough to figure out the gas mileage yet, and even if I had, the odometer and trip meter don't work, LOL.

7. Fix a few small things, such as the front dome light, which seems to operate with a mind of its own. It does not come on when the door is opened unless I fiddle with the knob on it. Unless it decides cto randomly come on while driving. There are a few pieces of plastic trim inside and outside the car that need replacing, a few junkayrd trips should do the trick. The lights that illuminate the shifter (P, N, D, etc) are going out, they go on and off at random. The seat belt light likes to flash at me whenever I go over a bump, maybe a little short in the system. A few of the rubber trim pieces in different sections of the car have come loose, easily fixed as well. And finally, the car shakes badly when it idles... I don't know how to fix this, or for all I know, it might be normal. I am going to purchase a service book on the car so I can fix most minor things myself.

And here are some interesting facts about the car (if anyone cares, LOL):

1. The glove compartment contained the original bill of sale. The first owner purchased the car in Lewisville, TX on Septemeber 10, 1984 for about $4,500. A Carfax report that I ran showed that I am the 8th owner of this car, and it has a clean title history. It has never been owned by anyone who lived outside of the DFW Metroplex (6 owners in Dallas, 2 in Fort Worth).

2. The original first aid kit that came from the factory is still in the back, in its white bag, and nothing in it has ever been touched.

3. There was a brand new tire in the trunk, along with the spare, and an entire unopened package of roofing shingles, which amazingly match the color of my roof exactly.

4. There is absolutely no rust on the car, which astounds me for it's age. That paint job is brand new, and the only body damage is on the roof, where it appears a rock or hailstone caused a single small dent before the new paint job was put on.

5. The entire engine is very clean for its age. It obviously was washed, but all of the parts are in excellent condition with no visible wear.

So anyways, that's the low down on my new car. So, if anyone made it this far, do you think I got a good deal?
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2006, 08:09 AM
Jim B.'s Avatar
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You got it for a real cheap price

Considering that non running parts cars that are '84 300Ds can run $500-$700 if all you paid was $1000, and the only problems the car has are those you described, you got a HELL of a good deal. Your boss must really like you.

Rust was a big enemy of these particular cars, but if yours lived its life around the DFW area that is a non issue...

If it'a an '84 US model it would probably be the turbo model, so that's a plus too. The prices are going up quick for these, because of the interest in WVO/biodiesel conversions that so many are being put to....

You did not mention the mileage on your car, and might not know it anyhow if the odometer is kaput, but one really cheap preventative fix you might undertake is to clean or replace all the fuses. A lot of times, people get talked into unnecessary repairs when all that was needed was a fuse!!!

That's pretty amazing the original bill of sale and the first aid kit lasted unused, and the spare tire too, through 8 tiers of owners though probably the tool kit (if it had one) would be gone.

If you can find one (and the mounting clip for it) a good accessory would be a warndreiech ("warning triangle") which all the European spec/grey market W123 cars had. All of the cars, including yours, came with the holes for the clip and the triangle feet to slip right in to the trunk lid. This neat safety item was unfortunately required by the DOT to be deleted for U.S. bound cars

Get a picture up for everyone to look at when you get a chance...
__________________
1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2006, 08:14 AM
ImBroke's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
I figured out how to operate it, it was in the owner's manual. I am the typical guy... I hate reading directions LOL. I'm planning on replacing the entire sound system anyways with a cd player and some new speakers.
You are indeed the typical guy.. lol You will enjoy your new sound system, but pay attention to how the install goes. I would run new speaker wires. I just bypassed my factory fader, and the sound isn't what it could be, since there is only a front/rear two speaker setup from the factory, not a fl/fr/rl/rr setup like there should be.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
Before I learn to speak Mercedes, I should learn how to speak German, so I can read all the freaking lables under the hood .
There are quite a few of them, aren't there???

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimGraham
As for the ALDA, I'll keep up my searching, but I am also going to purchase a service book on the car. I would assume the process would be in there, complete with pictures.
I wouldn't bet on the procedure being in a service book. I think it's something just learned from doing. Anyway, you can check here too. http://ken.kdharris.net/kdhbenz/alda-adjust/

For the fuel gauge, remove the sender in the tank and clean it out. Should help, I got a ton of black crud from inside. For the dash lights, clean the bulbs, and people are reporting good results from painting the reflectors white or even covering them with aluminum foil.
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  #15  
Old 07-16-2006, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
You are indeed the typical guy.. lol You will enjoy your new sound system, but pay attention to how the install goes. I would run new speaker wires. I just bypassed my factory fader, and the sound isn't what it could be, since there is only a front/rear two speaker setup from the factory, not a fl/fr/rl/rr setup like there should be.
Well, there goes a nice increase in the install price, LOL. They'll probably charge me an arm and a leg for running new wire. But maybe not - I might just be paranoid.

Very useful information, though, thank you. And thank you for your other information as well.

Quote:
Considering that non running parts cars that are '84 300Ds can run $500-$700 if all you paid was $1000, and the only problems the car has are those you described, you got a HELL of a good deal. Your boss must really like you.
I'd like to think he does. He and his wife are the prime examples of good people. Me and him are good friends, and he's a great person to work for.

Quote:
If it'a an '84 US model it would probably be the turbo model, so that's a plus too. The prices are going up quick for these, because of the interest in WVO/biodiesel conversions that so many are being put to....
Yup, it's a turbo. And aside from the takeoff acceleration problem, it really hauls on the highway

Quote:
You did not mention the mileage on your car, and might not know it anyhow if the odometer is kaput, but one really cheap preventative fix you might undertake is to clean or replace all the fuses. A lot of times, people get talked into unnecessary repairs when all that was needed was a fuse!!!
The odometer reads 179,934. I couldn;t tell you how long it has been out, though, LOL. And thank you for the fuse advice, I believe I will check all those as well.

Quote:
That's pretty amazing the original bill of sale and the first aid kit lasted unused, and the spare tire too, through 8 tiers of owners though probably the tool kit (if it had one) would be gone.

If you can find one (and the mounting clip for it) a good accessory would be a warndreiech ("warning triangle") which all the European spec/grey market W123 cars had. All of the cars, including yours, came with the holes for the clip and the triangle feet to slip right in to the trunk lid. This neat safety item was unfortunately required by the DOT to be deleted for U.S. bound cars

Get a picture up for everyone to look at when you get a chance...
I'll take a good set of pictures here in a bit. It's still cool outside, I might go do that right now.

I did not find any kinf of tool kit, so you might be right about it being gone. What did it look like, and what was included in it?

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