Off topic carburetor question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimmyL · #1 07-21-2006, 03:20 PM

I always go to yall first.
Car is an '87 Chevy Nova!

Which in fact is a Toyota Corolla with a bowtie.
My neighbors are having severe money issues, and are trying to get this running so their 17 year old son can get a job and help out with bills.
It has sat for about 5 years! Ouch!!
Well, I removed the spark plugs, squirted some oil down the cylinders, checked and added fluids. Had put in some gas conditioner, and a gallon of fresh gas (only 9 gallon tank)
Car would start with carb cleaner, but wouldn't idle or run. I found a dirt daubers nest on rear of carb, keeping some kind of arm from actuating.
Well, it now starts and idles almost perfectly. However, when you depress accelerator to try and rev the motor, it immediately bogs. It will die if you keep trying to increase rpm's, or if you let off it will go back to idle. It also has that "bogging" noise of course when this happens.
It is a little carburated 4 cyl.
Carb cleaner has doused this little carb, but of course no help other than being able to see it.
I'm open for suggestions, and they are desperate. Like happens so often to us, they see me always working on my cars and think I can fix anything.
Ha!
Jimmy

Also, if anyone local or semi-local has a cheap under $500 MB, such as 240 automatic or NA 300D that is a beater but runs, I'm toying with the idea of buying it and letting them use it. If wrecked, I can always use the parts, and if it has issues, I can handle most that aren't too severe.
Good Christian folks, and I would love to help them if possible.

dieseldiehard · #2 07-21-2006, 03:30 PM

take top off carb look for float damage, rust, etc. Rebuild kit.
Check spark (remember that thing called a timing light?)

I suggest you Post this on the gasser thread maybe more people there with gas engine experience.

Good luck with finding a cheap 240D they are either worn out at that price (even free) or not worth fixing.

andmoon · #3 07-21-2006, 03:54 PM

Have not looked inside a corolla carb but if the principle is the same...your jets need to be cleaned out...many motorcycles go thru this in the spring after being put away wet in the fall.

kerry · #4 07-21-2006, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andmoon

Have not looked inside a corolla carb but if the principle is the same...your jets need to be cleaned out...many motorcycles go thru this in the spring after being put away wet in the fall.

Got to agree. Idle jet passagway is open, main jet is plugged. There's probably a lot of varnish in the carb from the gas evaporating. The issue is whether you can access and clean the main jet without completely dissasembling the carb. If you can clean the main jet, that may work but if there's a lot of varnish it may clog up again. You'll probably need some kind of manual or diagram to figure out where the main jet is.

JimmyL · #5 07-21-2006, 04:19 PM

Please don't move this thread off to some obscure forum, as mine in Tech Help was.......

New2MB · #6 07-21-2006, 04:32 PM

This is a common problem on motorcycles, it'd be best to yank the carb and soak it.

After 5 years of improper (my assumption) storage it's going to need a good cleaning.

Just don't stick a wire into the carb, it could change the size of the jets and then you'll need a new one.

pmckechnie · #7 07-21-2006, 04:34 PM

Jimmy
Try this, it has worked for me a few times (and not worked at times).
The tube that is cut off at a 45 deg angle and open on that end is the bowl vent line. Spray carb cleaner in it using the little red tube that comes with it.
Get as much in it as you can and then let it sit overnight. Next day give it a try and see if it runs better. If not do the same thing again. You can try it again but if 2 times doesn't fix it, 3 or 4 times probably won't either. Sometimes it helps to spray the carb cleaner in that tube while trying to rev the engine, BUT BE VERY CAREFULL DOING THIS AND KEEP YOUR FACE AS FAR AWAY AS YOU CAN AND HAVE A FIRE EXT HANDY IF NEEDED. This will help clean the jets.

whunter · #8 07-21-2006, 04:49 PM

Massive varnish in the carburator from the gasoline evaporation.
Checked your local price for a rebuilt carburator.

Phil is checking on a rebuilt carburator and/or kit now...

whunter · #9 07-21-2006, 05:02 PM

This has worked on hundreds of gassers for me.

Find something to seal the carburetor (like a runaway diesel).

Raise the RPM as high as you can; then seal the carburetor at wide open throttle.
This will cause massive vacuum draw through all jets.
The engine will flood/choke out.

I would not do this more than thirteen times, and generally twice fifteen minutes between is enough.

The jets will not be very clean, but should begin working enough for a teen to drive.

Pete Burton · #10 07-21-2006, 05:06 PM

I'd try to fix it without taking it apart first if I could. Besides the obvious checking for vacuum leaks (18-21 inches steady is good), look for a stuck accelerator pump. When you mash the throttle, the linkage should move the pump lever. If the lever is already stuck down, the car will just fall on its face as soon as you give it gas.

JimmyL · #11 07-21-2006, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

When you mash the throttle, the linkage should move the pump lever. If the lever is already stuck down, the car will just fall on its face as soon as you give it gas.

I think that lever is the one the dirt daubers had secured in place with their mud hut! It wouldn't even idle until I found that and cleared it up. Fixing to head next door. Car is in direct sun with NO SHADE!!

I was gonna drag it up to the road with the tractor, and get it over to my house, but the wife just isn't up for that....
BTW, I was being fairly well swarmed by red wasps yesterday, and knew there was a nest somewhere. I worked for hours yesterday with a fist sized nest behind passenger side headlight!!

Will have carb cleaner and Raid with me today......

kmaysob · #12 07-22-2006, 01:34 AM

i would have to agree with everyone here. its probly rebuild time. i have seen this happen too many times. you will need to pull it apart and spray carb cleaner through all the passages. even better would be to soak all metal pieces in chemdip for 15-20 mins. (that stuff is nasty) then clean with carb cleaner. any idea what brand the carb is?

dieseldiehard: the diesel discussion seems to be the only section on here other than od that everyone doesnt have their noses in the air. thats why most post non diesel questions on here

JimmyL · #13 07-22-2006, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmaysob

dieseldiehard: the diesel discussion seems to be the only section on here other than od that everyone doesnt have their noses in the air. thats why most post non diesel questions on here

There is simply too much knowledge in the folks on this forum for me not to want to ask questions here. I trust the answers from the posters of this forum, that's all.
ALSO, I got more and better answers here than a Toyota Corolla forum I registered on and posed same question. Doubt they had any diesel advise.
(can you believe there is a Corolla forum???)

mbzkid · #14 07-22-2006, 05:19 AM

In your photos, I can already see alot of crud build up. I suggest trying all the and tips posted in this thread. The car should start to run better, then you should definatly pull the carb off and atleast clean it.

Also replace the fuel filter and make sure the fuel pump is running and pumping fuel to the carb. Your problem is probably the carb, but you should do this eventually anyway.

I only have experience with motorcycle and Weber carbs, but it looks like you could atleast pull the carb apart while its on the engine. I'm not sure though. Once it's apart, you can maybe blow air through the jets and check the float assembly. Don't drop any small parts into the throat (throttle) of the carb, because they could head straight for the engine.

SirNik84 · #15 07-22-2006, 05:42 AM

I own an 83 Toyota Tercel. It is powered by a staged 2bbl on top of a 3A engine. If I’m correct that car has the same staged 2bbl but it has a 4A. The only difference is the 3A is a 1.5L and the 4A is a 1.8L. Anyway. Those carbs are a pain in the rear. There is something like 25 vacuum lines. Before you dive into a carb rebuild I’d suggest you check all the hoses for cracks, check the check valves, they can crack as well. On the upper radiator outlet from the engine there is a temperature valve with 4 vacuum lines on it... that thing can get cracked as well. It is also very easy to damage when you are pulling off the stuck vacuum lines, so if you do have to pull the carb be very careful.

This may sound very simple, but if you pull the carb be sure to label all the vacuum lines, because even with the factory manual I had a very hard time getting all the hoses installed in the correct places.

Best of luck.

If you need anything let me know I love my little Tercel... I’ve owned 3 of them and I’m only 22... I got my last one for 80 bucks and it’s a great little runner now.

Nik