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601 Timing Cover R&R...should it be so scary?
There's a 190D for sale locally with a cracked timing cover. I looked at the shop manual and it looks like a pretty big job..probably a whole day to R&R it but doable...I think the car could be had for a few hundred dollars and is a relatively low mileage (140K) in decent shape otherwise...assuming the worst, is it worth trying this?
The seller says he had welded the crack and sealed it with RTV as a temp fix so it is drivable for now...is the R&R of the timing cover all that scary?
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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When Dave had the timing chain cover crack on the 603, he pulled the engine to do the repair.
Apparently, there are issues that are more difficult than they appear (on the 603 in any case). Do a search.......he's got a thread on it. |
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Quote:
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Marty D. 2013 C300 4Matic 1984 BMW 733i 2013 Lincoln MKz |
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The front two head bolts aren't really head bolts... they just clamp the head to the timing cover, not to the cylinder area. They are little M8 bolts with a low torque spec. I pulled the engine because I also wanted to change the oil pan gasket, and it just looked like way too much work to do the job with the engine in place. I'd probably have spent the next few months getting my back straightened out at the quackopractor. Much easier out of the car, if you can do that.
I also pulled the head, which is required to replace the long "banana" timing chain guide. If the timing cover is coming off, I'd replace all the guides, and probably the chain too - it will never be easier. Do it all once and you're good for the next 200-400kmi. |
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Too Late! I bought it!
Gsxr,
Any other recommendations. I have to fix the blinkers and solve the shut down issue (won't turn off with key). Where does the blinker fuild go? Thanks, James |
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Also
It also makes creaking sound from the driverside when turning the wheel. I've heard lower balljoint. What do you think?
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#7
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Can you pull the front cover of a 603 without dropping the main oil pan?
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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squeeking creaking
I've got that too when I turn the wheel at low speeds. Will be curious to hear about your diagnosis, solution... I'm guessing ball joints as well.
Kevin 1979 240D manual 1984 190D manual |
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The shutoff problem is vacuum related... most likely either a broken or cracked line, or a bad (leaking) vacuum shutoff pod on the injection pump. The creaking noises are pretty likely to be ball joints, but inspect the rubber bushings up front first - particularly the sway bar bushings & brackets.
Finally, yes the 60x timing cover can be removed with the oil pan and head in place, however you have to be careful not to damage the oil pan and head gaskets where they contact the timing cover. Personally, I didn't want to take the chance of leaks there, so I pulled both the head and oil pan, changed the cover, then put it all back together with new gaskets everywhere. Yeah it was a lot of work, but I have ZERO leaks now - woo-hoo! |
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My head is coming off, so seems like the oil pan won't be an issue.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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So far so Good!
I have the new timing chain and oil pump chain on order. The hose that goes to the top of the Injector pump was not connected. I did not have to losen the oil pan. I did notice that the oil pan gasket is not there. I will use silicon for the entire mounting surface of the timing cover. A new water pump, lower balljoints, fluids and filters, thermostat, and maybe new upper and lower radiator hoses and radiator. Can anyone provide a picture of the front of their 2.2? I have a few small brackets that I need to locate.
Thanks! |
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#13
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I've used RTV for lots of things, valve cover gaskets, waterpump gaskets, oil pan gaskets, transmission pan gaskets, etc. Not a single leak problem, yet. You do have to be careful in how clean the mating surfaces are, and be careful of how you apply the stuff. Also, remember to let it cure overnight before adding any fluids and attempting to use the vehicle.
Also, there are some cases where a normal gasket is required for proper clearances. In this instance you are better off not using RTV, and if you do, use a very thin film, and place the parts together, but do not torque them dowm until the RTV has cured fully. If you torque it down, the gasket will slip, and you will have nice gap and leak. And, never use RTV as a head gasket.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K |
#14
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RTV is great but Mercedes specifically calls out a different sealant for the timing cover. You can use whatever you want of course, but I used the MB stuff (an orange anaerobic sealant, Loctite #574, MB# 001-989-89-20-10).
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So there's no gasket for the timing cover? Just the MB sealer?
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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