Sorry, a second engine shock bracket.

there you go!

i had a suspicion that was what you meant.

just couldnt resist the little jibe though

hope it goes well for you.

tom w

Just had to read back a bit. :P Any more info on how to add the additional engine shock bracket? Thanks.

What years were the turbo engines avalable? I think it was '78 and up for the 300SDs, but what about the 300D and TD?
Was it hard to modify the throttle to work woth the new engine?
Thanks.

The turbos are in these vehicles:
SD 78-85
D,CD 82-85
TD 81-85

I had to cut the mount that held the rubber damper off the firewall and bolt it over the 240's old damper location.

Thanks. I may have a bit more trouble with the linkage, My body is a '79 with the older style linkage I believe. Guess I'll have to wait and see.

Well it looks like I may be attempting this project sooner than expected, in a few weeks rather than a few months. I will have 6 days to put the new engine in before I have to leave town. Should I still go for it, or should I just go with another 240 engine. I have a few leads on both engine types, but have not bought one yet.

I still have a few questions lingering. Should I pull and install the engine/transmission as a group?

What new parts should I install while I am in there besides a new clutch and motor mounts? Where can I find a clutch alignment tool?

How do I add a second engine shock bracket?

What is the best way to shorten the shift linkages?

Thanks for the help.

i can comment on the second bracket. just look at the bracket's location on the 300 inner fender. then duplicate it with a short piece of angle iron. and paint it so it wont rust.

six days seems marginal to do the job. if you have two complete cars to work with you may be ok. if not you will be stymied by a missing part or three or six and i would think the six days will not be enough.

good luck whichever way you decide to go.

tom w

Seperate is less work in and out, IMHO.
An alignment tool from a mid 90's Chevy S-10 should work.
Cut and re-thread with a die.

Did you find a source to cut the driveshaft?

No, I haven’t found a shop to do it yet, but I think I should be able to find a place to do it in the greater Portland area (where the car is). I guess if I can't finish the project, I'll just have to come back later to finish it. I have found a 79 turbo engine for $300. The car has 300K on it, so I plan to run a compression test before I buy.

I have the input shaft from an old Volvo trans for alingment, same spline, pull and install eng and trans as a unit.

Well I got myself an engine hoist today, I think I'll try to pull the dead engine tomorrow. I started labeling wires and vac hoses. My shop manual says to pull the engine/transmission as a unit, but I am still undecided. Will I even need to pull the transmission out or can I just scoot it back 4 inches after I have the drive shaft and shift linkages shortened?

Is there any trick to pulling the engine that the shop manual would not cover?

What should I do about the transmission mount since the transmission will now be 4 inches farther back?

Thanks again everybody. -Bryan

You will also need and adjustable spreader bar epically if pulling eng and tranny together, which is the WAY easier choice.

Jack one rear wheel up so the drive shaft can be turned and cut it lose leaving the flex plate on the tranny. You may need too loosen the "collar" at the U joint but it'll proly just go back when you pry it away from the tranny. Its a good idea to mark both sections at the U joint should it accidently get separated (dont ask how I know:) )

Leave the tranny mount (cross member) ON the tranny and just remove the two 17mm bolts, which is easier than fooling with the rubber mount at this point.

An impact wrench is handy for cutting the flex plate lose also turning the adjustment nut on the spreader bar.

Have a fun day:)

oh, I will! :wacko:

Well put a deposit on an engine out of a 116 300SD. It is missing the alternator and some other parts, but looked to be in good shape. I could not access the starter with my jumper cables to run a compression check, but the yard said they would test run it in front of me before I buy it. Because this engine is between half and a third of the cost of the other engines I have found I think even if it's compression is a bit low it is a good price. I checked the turbo and it spun freely and had no play.

Will I be able to use the alternator, and crank pulley from the 240 engine?

Off to the garage to finish yank the 240 boat anchor. :)