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#1
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another temp. question
Car runs warm, up to 100, when idling and will not cool down on its own after running at city street speeds. I take that back, it will cool to about 97.
60,000 miles ago, the waterpump was replaced. Last year, the radiator was rodded, but looks new to me. It is not the thermostat, which I just changed, nor the fan clutch, that was changed last year as well and operates as it should. I am not losing coolant. Should I do the citric acid flush, or just go ahead and replace the waterpump again? I want to go to the TEXAS GTG saturday, but this may prevent it. |
#2
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100C is a little warm, think I would try another T stat and check it in a pan of water on the stove, Make sure the arrow is pointing ahead (or up), doubt it would help to change the water pump. Maybe your gauge is reading a little high, can you hold the upper radiator hose for more than a second or two, (when its showing 100C) if you cant its proly close to right. Anyway, I'd try another T stat.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#3
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Is your aux fan working?
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD (OM642) |
#4
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I'm guessing that the ambients in LA are close to 100°F.
Around town, an engine temp. of 100°C. is nothing to be concerned about........especially in those temps. The SD can run all the way up to 98°C. after a highway run and then slowing down for local driving and the ambients here are mid '80s. You can drive it all day long at 100°C. without any issues, provided that you have a proper coolant ratio and a working expansion tank cap. Remember, the red zone begins at 120°C..............110°C. is the point where you start to be concerned. |
#5
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i differ
i beg to differ... i dont let mine get up to 100c... one time it did
and it blew off the neck of the radiator... remove the thermostat and the temp will fall to 90... If you live down south and your running your ac then you will probably have to do something to stay around 90... |
#6
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Thanks to all of you for your responses.
Steve - I tested the new t-stat on the stove prior to installation. No-bluescreen - Aux. fan works properly. Brian - Thanks, I will keep your advice in mind. It rained for the better part of the day today, temps only in the high 80's. Engine temp. still was high. Usually, it can be well into the mid and upper 90's with high humidity and the engine temperature remaining a fairly constant 85, regardless of driving speed, A/C usage etc. These engine temps are unusual, but for now, I might just go with it. Blueranger - You're scaring me! But thanks for the warning. |
#7
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I should note that I had issues recently where my 82 300D was running up to 100C, but it was only on the highway and only with the A/C on. I did the following and now she runs a steady 90 in all conditions.
1) Replaced the fan clutch with a new Behr fan clutch 2) Replaced my stock 6-blade fan with the new 9-blade model 3) Replace the thermostat with a new thermostat 4) Drained old coolant out and replaced with new at 50/50 mix 5) Sprayed radiator and A/C condensor with garden hose to rinse off grime The two expensive items were the fan blade and fan clutch. I am very satisfied with the results. Judging by the grime that was on my old fan clutch, I think it's a safe bet that all of the gear oil leaked out of it.
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD (OM642) |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Make sure you have the newer 1.2bar cap.
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#10
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Please check your temp sender, have had few VDO ones go bad on me and give me insanely high reading, also the vehicle earthing.
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99 Gurkha with OM616 IDI turbo 2015 Gurkha with OM616 DI turbo 2014 Rexton W with OM612 VGT |
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