Is there an accurate method of checking the engine fan clutch to see if is working properly? I am concerned that it might not be working as it should while on the highway.
Thanks in advance,
Frank

Do a search for "fan clutch". There is a visual way, with the engine running, turn it off. If the fan keeps spinning, then the fan clutch is toast. It should stop either immediately, or with in one revolution.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Frank,

I had an 87 SDL that I was concerned the fan clutch was too loose. It was replaced once and still seemed loose. At shutoff even when very warm ( 100* +/- on the guage) the fan would spin to a count of "9"... That is thousand 1, thousand 2... up to 9. The temp never got above 105* and only for a short time under heavy load. So in reality the clutch may have been ok and I was too chicken.

I did the toyota fluid refill and probably overfilled it. Once again when hot, did the shut off and it stopped in "thousand 1" or less. Over a year it leaked a bit and went to not quite "thousand 2".

The tighter fan meant about a 5* change in readings on the dash gauge. Also a quicker reduction in temp after a highway run, then stuck at an exit light, then pull away. The tighter fan reduced temps much more quickly. It was a bit noisier in all operating conditions.

Chuck

Just replaced mine on my 190DT, loose bearings seemed too much risk.

Reading the manual, I believe it was to run the engine around 3000rpm and the fan should come on between 190-195F, I'd have to re-read. The manual also said that the fan would not exceed a certain RPM in any conditions, I believe it was around 3500rpm?? So it is apparently centrifugally self-limiting, explained to me why it didn't roar like my LandRover fan at higher RPM. A fairly quiet fan really IMO for a cast-metal fan.

- Jeff Miller