My Parallel Flow "Condensa Advencha"
 

Some folks have asked me to document my parallel flow condenser install experience - with part numbers, etc.

Overall, the job was fairly simple given the fact I had an extremely competent AC shop nearby to fabricate hoses, bend tubes, etc.

In the first photo below, you see the old OEM tube and fin condenser. Lots of bent, mangled fins and bug carcasses clogging up the works.

Second photo shows the new parallel flow condenser, Frigette P/N 203-355. This is a 15.5 x 20 aluminum parallel flow condenser with input and output O-ring fittings on the same side. This was chosen because the finned area was approximately the same as the OEM condenser, and the mounting holes closely aligned with the OEM mounting points. Mounting brackets/straps were fabricated from sheet aluminum. Note that the inlet and outlet tubes were bent to approximate the OEM shape, and thus present the fittings for hose attachment in a similar location to the OEM unit.

Third photo shows old and new condensers side by side.

Next photo shows the only major incompatibility between the two condensers. The OEM vapor inlet is a #10 fitting. The Frigette condenser uses a #8 inlet fitting. Welding would be necessary to fabricate a metal tube with #10 on one end and #8 on the other. It's easier to fabricate hoses with different fittings than tubes, so a #8 to #8 tube was used, and a new manifold to condenser hose was built to change the fitting at the condenser end to #8. Total cost $20.

Picture 5 shows the new condenser mounted in the car with the fabricated aluminum brackets. No metal cutting was needed to fit.

Total cost for the condenser, tubes, hoses, etc was about $170.

Cold air? Priceless

Bob
'82 300D

Tech Guy,
Very nice write-up.

Where did you get the condenser from and who made your special a/c lines?

R

Carlisle Auto Air - North San Antonio location....

Thanx...the wagon's a/c is on it's last legs. When it dies, I really want to do the 'full meal deal' pulling the evap and cleaning or replacing it, installing a parallel flow condenser etc...and, maybe even converting the stupid CCU to a manual control out of a 240.

Good deal, you sticking with R12 or going to 134A with this?

Staying with 134a since that's what it's running now and the 134a fittings are already installed.

Here's the whole deal. Completed on July 9 and working well since then:

1) Reman R-4 Compressor (didn't want to deal with stepped ports)
2) Condenser and hoses as above
3) New Dryer and exp valve
4) New exp valve housing
5) All new O-rings with Nylog Red
6) 170ml Castrol 500 viscosity Mineral oil
7) 1/4 oz universal UV dye
8) 2.6 lbs R-12

As I look at the white intermediary tubes, it appears they are flattened somewhat, is that correct? If so wouldn't that increase the backpressure regardless if the condenser is parallel or series flow?
Not having these adaptor pipes is the only thing that has prevented me from converting my 300TD to parallel flow (and from R134A back to R12!:rolleyes: )

The parallel flow condenser seems like it would improve efficiency, but I just converted my stock 300D system back to R-12 and it blows very cold. The point is, a stock R-12 system should be more than adequate under most conditions.

Colorado = OK
Texas = not so much!

I have read where you can't flush a parallel flow condenser. Leathermang suggested an inline filter in front of the condenser in case the compressor lets go. Sounds like a good idea.
I'll give him props, even though he chides my Freeze12 usage.....;)

Yes, there is some minor flattening but I don't believe the flow was in any way
measureably reduced. Pressures were good on both the high and low side and
during charging there seemed to be plenty of flow at the sight glass.

I elected not to worry about it....

I discussed inline filters with the Carlisle guys. They had them in stock
and they could have made some money selling me one. They seemed
indifferent to it.

The condenser itself was less than $100. The filters were in the $40 range.
In this case, the insurance seemed a little expensive.

OK, thanks for clarifying about the flow, I recently used a pipe bender on some 1/8 in gas line, it wasn't sized properly and the pipe wound up flat in a few spots.
As for the filter, I've seen them a lot in fixed (commercial) AC systems and wondered if there was any need for them in an automotive AC. I still want to go parallel flow.
symbolguy has a CD selling on eBay that shows the conversion process. I watched a similar video for the W123 chassis and it fired up my desire:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230012733623&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.search.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3Ffrom%3DR40 %26satitle%3D230012733623%2509%26fvi%3D1

How do you assure you get a reman compressor without Stepped ports?
Can you tell me what exact p/n or identification you used to order it? For a late 123 chassis - I am slowly crossing that same road, I hope we don't have any more heat waves here before I get to the AC)
thanks! DDH

I went to Advance Auto and had them open it. I expected stepped ports so I wanted
to be sure the multi-colored seal rings were included. When they opened it, it was
the old style non-stepped port R-4 with simple neoprene seal rings.

SOLD! $108 with a $10 core.....