cr*p, busted oil pan on way back from lunch, help!
 

What all is needed to replace oilpan? I will have to change mine in the car park at work as they cant get a tow truck down there. I cant even tell its specifically oil pand but thats where it looked like it was coming from. When I turned off the engine it really started dumping.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/122057-617-engine-replacing-oil-separator-check-valve-upper-oil-pan.html?highlight=oil+pan+separator+dave

This post will cover the tools you need. Also you'll need a new oil pan and gasket. Also a jack and some jack stands to raise the car.

Dave

Assuming you just broke the low oil pan:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41V50RTDRL&year=1983&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=All&part=Oil+Pan

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41V50RTDRL&year=1983&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=All&part=Oil+Pan+Gasket

It sounds like you need to get under there and clean things up so you can see what's going on.

It's not to bad of a job, just make sure to buy the allenhead socket and not the standard wrench, your hands will thank you. :rolleyes:

Did you hit something ? pans dont usually develop massive leaks just sitting.maybe get a can of degreaser and try to get a better look before you tear into the pan.Maybe its an easier fix,good luck Johnny

I bottomed out on in a way that felt very unwholesome. I even noted at the time that it didnt "feel right" considering the amount that was pouring out it more than likely is the pan.

Just came back up from the parking decks. Its definetely a large whole in the pan.

Question: Will the pan from my 300TD fit? Both are NA engines?

Sorry to hear that, dude! At least you did not get a siezed engine from the ordeal! I wonder, can you make, or have made a metal skid plate to bolt underneath like most 4x4's have? We have the same problems here in Tx with crappy side roads. There are lots of places here in Greenville where you see pavement gouges, and oil trails soon after.:mad:

Would it be possible to clean area with carb cleaner then jb weld it,reservice the oil just to get you home where you could permantly fix it,I remember Dale Jarrett did this in a nascar race a couple years ago.just a thought,johnny

When I said the whole is big its like .25 cent big. I'd rather just fix it in the parking deck.

Yeah I understand.Just make sure you use some jackstands,the higher you can get the car the more room you will have.Good luck,Johnny:)

Use permex cold weld epoxy... great stuff, cheaper then JB.

put it on stands, clean the area with brake cleaner, and then permex away... Then refill the oil, and be on your way


~Nate

While you are at it, using the perma tex or jb weld, see if you can punch, not drill, 4 small holes, and using self tapping screws, attach a patch piece made from a bottom of a coke can, or a lid from a tin can. Since you have to replace the pan anyway, a few more holes will not hurt. A guy here at the shop had a rock put a hole in his oil pan of a POS Ford, and did this to get the car home.

Is the hole in the bottom ferrous metal sump or the aluminum part bolted to the block?

Sixto

I thought they weren't allowed to add oil during a race.

Sixto

Be sure to check the oil pump real good as the suction sets right on the bottom of the pan. I had 240 that had a badly dinged pan, the oil pump was broken and hanging there be a "thread".

I change the oil without jacking it up. I'm thinking you can change the lower oil pan without jacking it up.

I'm sure it's possible, but it would be a whole lot easier on a couple of jack stands or ramps.

I believe the only thing they aren't allowed to do is change drivetrain components - engine, transmission, or rear end. Anything else is permissable (not 100% sure about the rear end though). Fluids are allowed, it's just that normally, the 16 quarts of oil they hold is enough.

I believe that was at Pocono 2-3 years ago, btw.

Skid plate
 

The W123 skid plate is Mercedes part # 123 520 03 42. Phil has them for $142 and free shipping. Mine gets installed this weekend.

Jeremy

BTW, how did you manage to bottom out a W123? They have huge ground clearance under the pan. :confused:

Mines a Euro? Bit different? Awefully squat down front compared to my 300TD? I was following a brinks truck and I swore it bottomed out too. The hole was circular, not a gash, about nickel sized. I guess thats what I get for drivinng a weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee bit to fast (wee is the sound *I* make) on atlanta roads.

Thanks for all the help guys. It was easy as pie. Left work at 5:45, time to go to autozone and get 5mm socket, go home change, go to parts car pull pan (which was dented but serviceable), go back to work, pull old pan and install new one was around 3.5 hours. Got home around 9:45 including trip back to work to get something out of car. Not exactly fast but the procedure itself was pretty quick. I still need to get a new pan, the one I pulled wasnt nearly as nice as the one in dmorrisons links. I have antoher oil leak or two I need to fix and then I will clean the engine real well. The wierd thing about this sedan, cosmetically its a POS, but I SWEAR mechanically it is pristine. Very little blow by, handling is super tight, stops on a dime, and accel is pretty fantastic to 100mph. The only minor issue is going into second gear (4spd man). As soon as it can get a paint job I am joing to really put some elbow grease into it and get it all fixed up.

Good to hear you got it fixed. Maybe yours is lower in the front than mine. :confused:

PO had the camber WAAAAAY out. Maybe that accounts for some of it? Sure makes lane changes suprisingly (to much sometimes) quick.

give a little pause in neutral before going into second and maybe use a little heavier oil in the tranny.

tom w

Little pauses suck! I am going to try the heavier oil and if that doesnt work I will pull another 4 spd from pull a part. But I'm guessing this is a fairly common issue as my buddies 240d does the same? Is there a FSM for the transmission?

If you have a pit under the car.

Well, I don't really think of there being huge ground clearance under my oil pan. matter of fact, seems like there are new scratches on it every time I'm under there. Which is weird btw, as I never bottom out, or even come close.
I also had front end rebuilt :mad: along with new shocks, and it sits up ridiculously high, and pan still is an inviting target....

They always seem high to me, I can easily change the oil without lifting the car. Also, the pan is pretty much in line with the front wheels, so you would have to straddle something pretty big to smack it. AFIAK, I've never scraped mine on anything.

Glad to hear your engine is ok. Years ago the same thing happened to my Beemer and Marine-Tex actually worked fine untill I could afford a new expensive aluminum pan. At 17 there were other many other things to spend money on;luckily the Benz pans are cheap in comparison and probably more durable. Most interestingly, I had a 1977 240D with manual windows,sunroof,& 4 speed.This car had a stock bolt on anti-skid plate.I would love to get one for my current 123 for any possible off-roading. Even though it weighed a ton it was worth the protection.Maybe it was a euro option only? Anyone know where to get one?

I know. That is what is weird about the new scratches.....