can't get braingears site to come up so here goes.how many and where abouts are the bolts to loosen the inj pump on a 603??i can see the square nut right next to the adj bolt,but it looks like the bolt would be behind the vac pump!does the vac pump have to come off to set timing??

The pump doesn't have to come off to set timing. You've seen the bolt near the adjuster. Follow to the front of the engine to find the head. Look down between the block and the IP to find another square nut then follow to the front. Feel around under the IP for the third square nut then follow to the front. Or feel for the 13mm head bolts around the pump.

There's a fourth bolt at the back end of the IP. Should be obvious.

If you adjust timing then find a pool of engine oil near the driver side engine mount, you disturbed an old brittle o-ring between the IP and block. Now the pump has to come off...

Sixto
... stay tuned

o.k thats what i needed to know.i'm kinda wondering if my knock,which really isn't a knock like a rod knock but more like what people refer to as nailing.is timing related,the previous owner had the t-chain replaced sometime before i got it.and from some of the other stuff i've seen done on this thing.they probably didn't mess with the pump,so a new chain would make the timing advanced.gonna pull the plug today and see if i'm right.

The new chain would bring the timing back on spec. Most folks don't adjust the timing on these engines.........when the timing is late.........the chain is the culprit and it's typically replaced at that point. It's not at all like a 617.

The IP timing is not your issue.

And, you have absolutely no reason to loosen those retaining screws until you check the IP timing with the RIV lights.

If you're still curious, you can rent one of the tools from the tool rental program.

as i said just for my peace of mind,i'm gonna set the crank and pull the bolt to see if the lug is where it should be,if it's not i see crazy banana rents the riv tool,that will be the next thing,i think first off i'm pulling the #3 inj and checking out the prechamber,everythings been loosened up so i can have it apart in 10 minutes or so.

The lug is within 2 degrees of where it should be. You'll not be able to discern 2 degrees with a mirror and a flashlight.

I haven't heard from Crazy Banana in awhile. If you get no answer, M.B. Doc will also rent the RIV lights.

You're looking for a completely intact ball and shaft assembly sitting in the middle of the prechamber. Use a strong flashlight and check it out thoroughly.

well just looking down from the top,i took inj 3,4,5 out and 4,5 the ball looks somewhat square on the tip with rounded edges,also they had a black steel color to em,the #3 the ball was more rounded but not to much more then the others,also it had a somewhat whiteish gray appearance to it.sizewise they looked pretty much the same.you say the balls should be in the middle of the prechamber,that is not my case they are all sticking maybe a 1/3 the way into the center.i do have some pics but don't know how to download i could send em to ya?as for the pump,if the timing mark on the crank is the pointer towards the top,just eyeballing it the lug thru the bolt hole on the pump looked dead center,so i guess i'll have to check out mb. doc about that riv tool.

The crank pulley has degree marks like a gasser crank pulley. With the IP lug centered in the reference hole as best you can, what is the reading on the crank pulley?

If you can consistently trace the knock to a particular cylinder then I doubt IP timing it the root of the problem. I'm inclined to think the problem is something specific to the pump chamber or rack setting for that cylinder.

Sixto
... stay tuned

well i set the crank at 14 atdc.and the lug in the pump was dead center.i'm almost to the point that it could be pump related.as i mentioned in my other thread on 603 knock.the #3 line has a distinct pulse to it where as the others you can feel a little pulse,and i mean the #3 line is twice as noticable as the others.