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  #1  
Old 08-06-2006, 03:26 PM
clint77002's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 102
124 won't start...vacuum issue

I got in to start my wife's 87 300D but no dice. I poped the hood and realized that the shutoff lever was all the way down. After about 5 minutes, it went back up to the "run" position. It appears that the vacuum is not released when the the key is turned to the number 2 position. I can pull the vacuum line from the engine shutoff (on the IP) and the car will start but run a bit rough. When I reattach the vacuum line, the vacuum lever drops to the stop position and the car immediately dies.
I tried to remove the ignition tumbler but cannot get it off.
I will attach pictures of the ignition tumbler within the hour.
Here are my questions:
Does it sound like the vaccum shut off valve (from fast lane part number: D2020-11741) is bad?
If so, how do I replace it? I've looked through the archives and cannot find how to R&R this item.

clint

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81 300D N/A 130K miles (Nelly)
87 300D Turbo 80K miles (The Scalded Dog...because it runs like a scalded dog)
95 e320 Wagon 104K
2003 Sprinter 47K miles.
1999 Tandem Bicycle
One beautiful low miles wife (who likes diesels) (that's my wife holding the sign)

My son and I fixing Nelly's odometer
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2006, 07:56 PM
sixto's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,793
Sounds like you're on the right track investigating the switch. If the shut-off lever stays down when you disconnect the hose from the shut-off valve then it's a problem with the shut-off valve on IP innards.

Sixto
... stay tuned
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  #3  
Old 08-06-2006, 09:37 PM
clint77002's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 102
Almost fixed..but now more trouble.

After removing the brown-blue vacuum line from the shutoff valve (on the IP) the engine will start. To kill the engine, I just reconnect the line.
I pulled the lower, driver's side dash panel off and examined everything. I guess during the examination of the tumbler, things got realigned. Now, it starts and stops as expected.
HOWEVER,
In the process of pulling and relacing the dash, the hood release cable will not open the hood. I suspect that it came of of the latch, at the front of the hood. ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH.
I now cannot get the hood open!!!!!!!!!!
Does anyone know how I can open the hood now? I pull the cable until it stops (no resistance until the very end of the pull) and then it will go no further.
The good news of all of this is that we FINALLY got some rain, albeit a small shower.

Thanks,
clint
__________________
81 300D N/A 130K miles (Nelly)
87 300D Turbo 80K miles (The Scalded Dog...because it runs like a scalded dog)
95 e320 Wagon 104K
2003 Sprinter 47K miles.
1999 Tandem Bicycle
One beautiful low miles wife (who likes diesels) (that's my wife holding the sign)

My son and I fixing Nelly's odometer
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  #4  
Old 08-06-2006, 09:52 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Boonville Indiana
Posts: 2,342
Opening Hood

Does the hood pop up a little like it is supposed to.... sometimes you need to bounce on the hood a little to get it to pop up.... if it pop up that little bit then you can use a coat hanger or a welding rod... just bend the end of it and you can reach in the slot and pull on the latch... If you can't get your hood to pop up by bouncing the hood then you can take the lever apart on the inside of your car and use a pair of pliars to pull on the cable from inside the car...Jim
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James A. Harris

Last edited by jim16671836; 08-06-2006 at 10:29 PM. Reason: Adding Information
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  #5  
Old 08-06-2006, 10:55 PM
clint77002's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 102
I got the hood to open. I took a long hack saw blade (could not find my long handled screwdriver....someone's been in my TOOLS!!!) and opened it by pusing the lever in the direction of the cable. Here is what is going on:
I pull the cable from the hood release (front of the car) and I cannot feel any movement in the cable in the cabin. I pull the cable in the cabin and no movement in the cable at the hood. As I recall, the cable on the hood and the cable in the cabin are connected via a wheel...sort of a wheel coupling. Does this sound right? Anyway, the cable from the hood is not connected to (nor in any way influenced by) the cable in the cabin.
I cannot find any "wheel" or coupling in the FSM.
Am I correct about the "wheel coupling"? How do I reconnect this cable?

clint

(My loving wife just told me "no one has been in your tools"...so I must have misplaced it).
__________________
81 300D N/A 130K miles (Nelly)
87 300D Turbo 80K miles (The Scalded Dog...because it runs like a scalded dog)
95 e320 Wagon 104K
2003 Sprinter 47K miles.
1999 Tandem Bicycle
One beautiful low miles wife (who likes diesels) (that's my wife holding the sign)

My son and I fixing Nelly's odometer
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  #6  
Old 08-06-2006, 11:51 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Boonville Indiana
Posts: 2,342
No Wheel Coupling

The cable is a one piece item with a small end that is connected to the lever... looks like a smal flat round piece that goes into a slot in the interior lever.... You either have a broken cable or the cable has somehow disconnected itsself from the lever... Remove the lever from the side panel and see if the cable is disconnected... if it is then you might need another cable or you might need another lever... Jim
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James A. Harris
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  #7  
Old 10-18-2006, 11:08 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 78
injection pump stop lever on 87 300d

Clint - I have this exact problem - stop lever is down , ergo car won't start.

When you examined the vacuum system and in so doing got it to work OK, can you tell me a bit about what you fixed to get it to work?

thanks, Jim

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