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#1
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Tools for pulling intake on 603
which tools and what size sockets exactly do you guys use to pull your intakes on your 603's? This will be my first time. I plan on pulling and cleaning the injectors, replacing injector nozzles, replacing glow plugs, and tweaking the ALDA.
Also, is there anything that I should keep in mind here that might prevent me from doing something stupid or harmful to my engine? Thanks a lot and wish me luck! P.S: Where can I get the gaskets for the intake manifold? I can't seem to find them on Fastlane. Am I blind?
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1987 300D wvo on the way! |
#2
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10mm, 13mm combos as well as sockets. 5mm allens.
While it's out, take your intake to a machine shop to have hot-tanked to get that crap out of it. Search for my name as a poster to see how much crap is inside them... ALDA is good around 1 to 1.5 full turns CCW.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#3
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tried pulling a couple inj's tonight on my sdl,your gonna need about a 1 1/16th inch deep socket for the inj's but not just any socket,i had 3 different ones and none of em woyld fit past the return nipples.14mm on inj nuts.
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#4
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It's a 27mm deep.
I thought the hard lines were 17mm?
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#5
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The hard lines take a 14mm wrench.
Get a deep 27mm or 1-1/16" socket from Home Depot. The cheapest they sell. Better made deep sockets have all sorts of internal gusseting that interferes with the return nipples. Cheaper sockets don't have that interference. I thought the intake manifold bolts took a 6mm hex bit. Those darned injector line bosses get in the way of a ratchet extension. Use the longest bit with wobble tip. In fact I use a long hex key and vice grips. There's no published torque spec so I tighten by feel. This is the parts list of injector line clips courtesy of gsxr in case yours no longer keep the lines from chafing - 8 @ 601-078-04-86 rubber shim 2 @ 601-078-02-41 3 line clip 6 @ 603-078-01-41 2 line clip 3 @ 601-078-26-41 solo clip Glow plugs? Sixto |
#6
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Are those part numbers for the clips for FastLane? I can't find them.
What is so questionable about glow plugs?
__________________
1987 300D wvo on the way! |
#7
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Those are MB part numbers. Any parts guy worth his salt will know parts by these numbers.
It's easiest to replace the glow plugs with the intake manifold off the head. Sixto ... stay tuned |
#8
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Yes, do the glow plugs while the head is off. Unless they're pretty new.
Try to find a 350SD/L GP relay then you can get the extended glowing plugs too. This is what I'll do next time I need plugs.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#9
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Quote:
I bought one intake manifold gasket from ********az and then later bought a backup from MB (Caliber Motors). The MB gasket was thicker and of a different material. I would buy it from MB directly. You will also want to buy a replacement crossover (or charge air pipe as the service manual calls it) to intake manifold gasket. The ones that MB has are also improved from the original design. edit.. Had a phone call in the middle of my reply so didn't see the part numbers posted above. The clips are cheap so I would buy a few spare of each. They aren't the easiest things to get on. It helps to have curved needle nose pliers. You will also want to buy some spare plastic injector line clips and rubber injector line pads as they tend to disintegrate when removed from the injector lines. gsxr has good photos with part numbers here. There are also pictures of the clips installed if you browse the directory and look at ..clips1, 2, 3. I believe the service manual shows 25Nm for intake manifold tightening. That's at 14-1310.pdf, which you might be able to find on the braingears website. |
#10
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I'd rather just score the proper tool, where can I order it?
Lots of work to just remove them with the std allens
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#11
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Flag down your local Snap-On truck and buy this:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog With that tool, and a 6 inch extension, you can have the manifold off in about 10 minutes. |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Thanks!
I have a few more questions:
1) What exactly is a wobble fitting? 2) I can't find the crossover to intake gasket (the round one) on fast lane. Where can I get it? 3) Will I have to disassemble the entire throttle linkage when I remove the IM? Thanks!
__________________
1987 300D wvo on the way! |
#14
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Quote:
2) It's unlikely you'll need the green o-ring at the mixing pipe end of the crossover pipe. Probably a dealer item. 3) No. You'll have to detatch a couple of ball linkages - one from the throttle pedal, one from the cruise actuator. Sixto ... stay tuned |
#15
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I bought a complete set, metric and english, of ball end allen wrenches for ablut $10. Each wrench has a plastic handle which makes it easy to turn.
Using the new allen wrenches made replacement of the manifold much easier to replace than it was to take it off without the new allen wrenches. I took my manifold to an auto machine shop for hot tank cleaning and I was told they can't hot tank aluminum because the solution is caustic. They used something else and it came out clean but the aluminum was much darker. They offered a bead blast to brighten it up but I didn't think it was necessary. P E H |
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