Beginner, New, Diesel, WVA, Tips, Help!

[JimZ]

Hello all-
Brand new to the forum and drove home my 1983 MB 300SD Turbo today!

I bought this car with plans to convert to WVO as soon as I save up for a greasecar kit, and I have a feeling these older diesels are getting more and more popular for this purpose. I've been searching through this site for the last week for tips on how to maintain a MB diesel car - and I'm purposely being vague and wordy with my subject line and descripition for other newbies who bought their first diesel for WVO conversion to easily find this in a search.

So far by reading posts here I have plans to throw some pool noodles under the driver seat and run a diesel purge. Thanks everyone!

In the 20 minutes it took to drive my (new) car home today, I noticed several problems that I have questions about. I have searched for these problems but there are so many posts on here, I'm hoping to start over for all the beginners that are buying these cars now for WVO conversion.

Here is everything wrong with my car, and some general diesel questions. I'm sure some are common and can be found by searching this site, but it would be really helpful for us beginners to find it all on one thread!

Problems:

1. Seat springs are shot. Pool noodles, got it, but what about the back seat?
2. Car smells pretty rank. Horsehair, charcoal in a bucket, Febreeze, suggestions?
3. Can't unlock the driver's side door from the outside.
4. Dash lights are out.
5. No owner's manual.
6. A LOT of play in the steering wheel.
7. The back seat and the shelf (?) - where the speakers & first aid kits are - came apart. Hard to describe, pictures to come.
8. Ignition is touchy. Have to get the key in the right spot.
9. When driving on the highway, the tachometer goes haywire - all over the place - or it doesn't work at all.
10. After I've been driving for a bit the oil gauge will go to the top when I'm accelerating and to the middle when I take my foot off the gas.
11. The clock doesn't work.
12. The leather is a little scummy.

That's all I can think of right now, but I've only owned the car for about 4 hours!

Now, general questions.

1. Do diesel pumps not have sensors that will cut flow when the tank is full? (like regular gasoline pumps)
2. Glow lights and other things former gasoline drivers don't know about.
4. Cold weather start advice.
5. Turbo. Is it working?
6. Because I'm going 0-60 in about 5 minutes.
7. What's with all the black smoke? Anyway to reduce that?
8. And really, any tips at all for someone who has never driven or owned a diesel before. Even the most basic stuff is necessary!

Also, remember that I am a extreme beginner, and there are probably others like me who are new to diesel engines and old Benz's looking for ways to fix these little problems. A lot of the posts I've read say things like "Easy for a beginner! First locate your torque-o-metric crank case hose shaft duct injector valve." Describing what the part looks like rather than just the Greek name would be really helpful! Links to posts on here would be awesome, instead of "do a search for dash lights." I did a search for dash lights and there were so many posts and none that outright solved the peoblem.

I'm sure this bugs for some people who know what they're doing, but I really want to learn this car. I don't want to go to a mechanic - I can't afford a mechanic!

So, thank you in advance for the help! I can't wait to drive.

-Jim

[techguy512]

Originally Posted by JimZ

10. After I've been driving for a bit the oil gauge will go to the top when I'm accelerating and to the middle when I take my foot off the gas.

Normal. Scratch this off your list.

[Cephallus]

Originally Posted by JimZ

1. Seat springs are shot. Pool noodles, got it, but what about the back seat?
2. Car smells pretty rank. Horsehair, charcoal in a bucket, Febreeze, suggestions?
3. Can't unlock the driver's side door from the outside.
4. Dash lights are out.
5. No owner's manual.
6. A LOT of play in the steering wheel.
7. The back seat and the shelf (?) - where the speakers & first aid kits are - came apart. Hard to describe, pictures to come.
8. Ignition is touchy. Have to get the key in the right spot.
9. When driving on the highway, the tachometer goes haywire - all over the place - or it doesn't work at all.
10. After I've been driving for a bit the oil gauge will go to the top when I'm accelerating and to the middle when I take my foot off the gas.
11. The clock doesn't work.
12. The leather is a little scummy.

1. I fixed my broken springs by stabilizing the breaks with 1/4" copper tubing (fridge water line). just cut a 1" piece for each break...slide it over one side, push together, slide the tubing over the break. Squeeze with pliers to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.

2. My solution on all of my cars is to completely gut the interior. Carpets out, everything. Wash 'em really, really, really good. Wash the exposed floors with cleaner (get out the old coffee and kiddie pee smell).

3. Common for these to wear out. Good thing there's central vacuum locking, eh?

4. Check fuses? And I mean check them with a continuity meter, don't just visually inspect them. They'll fool ya. If the fuses are good, check bulbs...then start chasing ground points. Pulling the cluster is a little big of a pain...

5. Available online

6. Steering linkage is the most likely culprit...worn tie rod ends. The good news is that it is diy-able with a few inexpensive tools.

7. Waiting for pics.

8. As in won't turn without wiggling, or won't start unless you rotate it to a specific spot? If the former, be careful - if it deteriorates to the point that it stops working entirely and you lock the wheel, it's an expensive fix! The good news is that replacing it is a relatively simple diy...

9. This may be a few things...but the fact that your dash lights don't work makes me suspect that it may be a bad ground. The only time I've had that happen is when my voltage reg on my alt went out, though...so it might take some detective work on your part.

10. Normal. As long as it rises when you hit the gas.

11. See #9 and #4...

12. Lexol is my favorite...cleaner and protectant. Get ready to put some real elbow grease into it.

[jwhughes3]

most everything was covered so I'll add some useful links for your reading pleasure...


http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_diesel_maintenance_tips.htm

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/

http://www.mbca.org/houston/links.htm

http://diymbrepair.com/

http://mbz.org/

http://www.dieselbenz.info/

That should get you started anyway.
Welcome and good luck.

John

[JimZ]

Was pretty bad this morning. My arm was tired and I was drenched with sweat (it's about 100 degrees in Philly) before I finally gave up. I tried again a few hours later and got it to work after about a minute. It is a "wiggle the key around" issue, and the wheel was locked. When I turned the wheel to the left or right as far as it would go, the key finally turned. Coincidence? You tell me. But now I'm worried about not being able to start my (new) car and having to drop a few hundred dollars to fix it. Yikes.

Does the tutororial in the DIY Articles section "Replacing the Ignition Switch
on the 1989 190E (W201)" apply to my W126? Do I have an airbag? Again, it's a 1983 300SD Turbo.

Also, I'm going to do the pool noodle thing, but how do you get the backseat out?
And the key won't turn at all in the driver's side door. Is this a vacuum issue or a broken lock issue? I feel like a real tool getting out of my (new) car, walking around to the passenger side, opening the door and reaching inside to lock it up. Links are cool if someone knows where instructions are on this site or elsewhere.

Thanks for the responses! I can tell this is going to be a very valuable forum.
-Jim

[dannym]

There are on-line manuals here:
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org
and here:
http://mb.braingears.com/
There you will find info from removing the rear seat to rebuilding the engine.
You will find info on adjusting the slack in the steering. But as it was already mentioned you should check your tie rods and other steering components firtst.

This area here is helpful too:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
This one in particular may be helpful to you:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123SteeringCoupling

But now I'm worried about not being able to start my (new) car and having to drop a few hundred dollars to fix it. Yikes.

You bought a used car. Why is this suprising to you? I'm sorry to be the one to break the news to you but you should plan on spending a little money to get it into proper working order.

Congratulations on your new ride and welcome to the forum!

Danny

[rrgrassi]

Get a Haynes manual and a MB shop manual on CD. Yes, get both. All manuals do assume that you know the basics of auto maintenance and repair. There are diagrams and pictures the will show you where the whachamacallits and thingamabobs are located.

DieselGiant does have some DVD's you can buy as well. I have seen one, and they are very imformative, and are a great step by step visual/audio reference.

[andmoon]

Look at each issue like a game, hobby...etc. I get worried if there is nothing more to 'fix'.

[Cephallus]

Originally Posted by JimZ

When I turned the wheel to the left or right as far as it would go, the key finally turned.

This is how the wheel lock works. Once it locks, you have to turn the wheel about 5 or 10 degrees in the direction you locked it in order to turn the key.

Do I have an airbag? Again, it's a 1983 300SD Turbo.

Does your steering wheel say "SRS" on the front pad, or do you have the wheel that's got a hole in the center with an acrylic mercedes symbol in it? Former is airbag, latter is not.

Also, I'm going to do the pool noodle thing, but how do you get the backseat out?

Look for little tabs where the bottom of the seat meets the chassis. Push them in, pull the seat up.

And the key won't turn at all in the driver's side door. Is this a vacuum issue or a broken lock issue? I feel like a real tool getting out of my (new) car, walking around to the passenger side, opening the door and reaching inside to lock it up. Links are cool if someone knows where instructions are on this site or elsewhere.

The key not turning is a broken lock. If you unlock the car from the trunk, the locks should all open. If not, then you may also have a vacuum issue...

[SD Blue]

Originally Posted by andmoon

Look at each issue like a game, hobby...etc. I get worried if there is nothing more to 'fix'.

Yes, those that have nothing more to fix, no longer hang out here.
(But I think it is because they sold it.)

[JimZ]

So I've found that after I turn the car off, if I DO NOT TOUCH the steering wheel, when I go to start it back up it usually works on the first try. If I turn the wheel after I turn the car off, the wheel locks, and when I try to start it back up the key won't turn. Is this an ignition switch problem or something with the wheel lock? What to do, what to do...

Also, does anyone know which of the 3 seat flex cables is for the front-to-back motion of the driver's seat?

Planning to clean the ol' banjo. Is it easy enough for a beginner? I feel like I should have a little more pick up and a little less black exhaust. We have really short, scary merges onto the highways here in Philly -- more of a stop and wait than a merge -- and I have to put my hazards on every time.

Pool noodled the back and driver's seat. Worked like a charm, now instead of peeking over the steering wheel, my head is about an inch and a half from the ceiling!

Also, once it got really dark I could see that my dash lights actually do work -- just incredibly dim! I'm going to try to pull the instrument panel and change the lights, but I've read a couple posts on here that said even with new lights it's pretty dim. I only want to have to pull the thing once, so does anyone have suggestions to guarantee it will be bright -- and is there anything else I should probably do while it's out, being that it's a 23 year old car?

Thanks everyone!

[SD Blue]

Yes, the banjo bolt cleaning is definitely easy enough for a beginner. There is one at the rear of the intake manifold and on the alda (each end of the system). Also, if you find considerable blockage, the overboost pressure switch may need cleaning as well.

For the steering lock, I used the lube that comes in a small spray can with a small pointed plastic tip on the top. It does a little better job of cleaning out the lock assembly, I think, because of the pressure. From my understanding, graphite lube is definitely not recommended on this system.

For the dash lights, a couple of cautions. Do NOT put larger bulbs in the sockets. A PO did this on mine and melted part of the dash assembly surrounding the bulb. Cleaning of the small prism, etc.. will help and repainting the pointers has been reported as making a big difference. (Personally, I like a little less light from the guages as it improves night vision outside of the car.)

[JimZ]

Thanks, SDBlue!

One question: Do you spray the lube directly into the the ignition (where the key goes)?

-Jim

[aklim]

Originally Posted by JimZ

So far by reading posts here I have plans to throw some pool noodles under the driver seat and run a diesel purge. Thanks everyone!

1. Do diesel pumps not have sensors that will cut flow when the tank is full? (like regular gasoline pumps)
2. Glow lights and other things former gasoline drivers don't know about.
4. Cold weather start advice.
5. Turbo. Is it working?
6. Because I'm going 0-60 in about 5 minutes.
7. What's with all the black smoke? Anyway to reduce that?
8. And really, any tips at all for someone who has never driven or owned a diesel before. Even the most basic stuff is necessary!

I'd change filters and take the injectors out and have them cleaned and tested. With 110K on my clock, I have one dirty injector. I took them out and had them cleaned and tested and one failed. Took it apart and cleaned it and it passed wonderfully. IMO, the only thing Diesel Purge MIGHT be able to get to is the IP. Injectors I will have removed, tested and cleaned. It costs me about $60 to get it all done plus my own labor and some misc parts. So, if you are intersted, someone will come up with a procedure for you. If not, you can try the DP way and see if it really helps. I doubt it can do as much for you as a disassembly and cleaning IF the injectors are not at pop off pressure and with poor spray pattern.

Yes they do. I have heard that someone has ripped off the "rib" that prevents you from using the big rig pumps. I did it on my Ford Excursion and it works wonderfully. Wife doesn't want the MB fooled with or she might castrate me if something goes wrong.

Well, it is hard to tell without doing a load test but you can do a resistance test to see if it is still working as far as the glow plugs go. Are you having any starting issues now? Easier to tell in the winter.

Make sure your block heater works and hook it to a timer and set it for 3 hrs before you need the car if it is really cold and you have to be sure that it starts.

Follow the hose from the filter to the turbo. Take the hose off at the turbo and see if it freely spins and whether there is any play in the shaft. The thing you are looking for is the fan blade.

It might be the turbo but unless you check it out, you will never know.

Probably not wise to worry about it till you make sure the car is running well. You might have to crank the ALDA down but that is another story. Get it running well first.

Have a set of filters and tools to change filter handy. Fill up from major stations unless you have to.

[SD Blue]

Originally Posted by JimZ

Thanks, SDBlue!

One question: Do you spray the lube directly into the the ignition (where the key goes)?

-Jim

Yes, I inserted the plunger tip into the ignition switch (where the key goes) and after several shots and working the key, it now works real s-m-o-o-t-h.

(Note: I understand that if you still have to jockey the wheel back and forth and turn the key several times to get it to unlock then the lock mechanism is suspect. If so, then repair it ASAP as I hear it can be a very expensive repair when the mechanism locks up.)