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  #1  
Old 08-07-2006, 07:43 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
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Which window regulator is better??

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1UO15Z3SZ1V9165FYH&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1987&product=O3040-16665&application=000022667

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1UO15Z3SZ1V9165FYH&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1987&product=O3040-74255&application=000370345

Which one would be better for a 1987, W126.125? My front window is clunking again, if it doesn't break before the car goes into storage I'll swap it out this winter.

Already broke once, replaced it with one from the 420SEL's door, now its clunking again, used one lasted less then a year. I don't want to mess with it again, espcialy since this is the drivers window, it gets the most use.
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2006, 08:25 PM
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Brose is what's in most of the cars. What exactly is wrong with your regulator?
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  #3  
Old 08-07-2006, 08:53 PM
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Have to learn to get your finger off that "up" button about 1 millisecond before the window runs out of travel........otherwise........you'll be buying another one next year.
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:16 AM
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Yep, but she clunks anyway. You would think the windows would be smart enough to not stress the regulator so.

I suspect one of the joints is becoming lose. I'll investigate when it breaks, seems like I fix one window a year.

I should just do what I did when the regulator on the rear window of the SD blew apart. I pulled off the door panal and wedged a large chunk of wood under the window. Problem fixed, well unless you want to roll the window down!
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  #5  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Yep, but she clunks anyway. You would think the windows would be smart enough to not stress the regulator so.

I suspect one of the joints is becoming lose. I'll investigate when it breaks, seems like I fix one window a year.

I should just do what I did when the regulator on the rear window of the SD blew apart. I pulled off the door panal and wedged a large chunk of wood under the window. Problem fixed, well unless you want to roll the window down!
somthin aint right, hows the tracks look? are they lubed? i have never had a broken reg. on the sd. now the 190e is another story
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:33 AM
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Mine all seem to be working ok so far....(0 problems in over 3 years of having the car! Knock on trim wood... ) On the '83 the passenger front motor had to be replaced, it was DOA when we got the car, motor was coroded and toasted, but the regulator was brand new! Then the rear driver window blew out its little nylon slider, had it replaced and its been fine since.

My passenger rear one does go "skip" breifly on its way down, but its always done that and it hasn't gotten worse.

My drivers one has started to make a random "chink" noise when it goes up, but it still goes smoothly and hasn't gone critical yet. I am hoping it makes it to winter so I can leave it alone till spring.
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  #7  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
You would think the windows would be smart enough to not stress the regulator so.

You would think the driver would be smart enough......


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  #8  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
Mine all seem to be working ok so far....(0 problems in over 3 years of having the car! Knock on trim wood... ) On the '83 the passenger front motor had to be replaced, it was DOA when we got the car, motor was coroded and toasted, but the regulator was brand new! Then the rear driver window blew out its little nylon slider, had it replaced and its been fine since.

My passenger rear one does go "skip" breifly on its way down, but its always done that and it hasn't gotten worse.

My drivers one has started to make a random "chink" noise when it goes up, but it still goes smoothly and hasn't gone critical yet. I am hoping it makes it to winter so I can leave it alone till spring.
take the door apart and watch it when you roll it down, you may save yourself some money.
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  #9  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Have to learn to get your finger off that "up" button about 1 millisecond before the window runs out of travel........otherwise........you'll be buying another one next year.

there is a tiny temp switch inside the motor to prevent too much damage if held down. not saying it wont do damage by holding it down.
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2006, 12:39 AM
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My Drivers front Reg in my SD is currently broker, I had a busted check link that would catch the window everytime it'd go down, eventually putting enough fatigue on the slider pivot tht the whole pivot broke off, I repaired it with some glue (special 3M glue) and it was fine for a while, but then it snapped again not too long ago. thankfully it broke on it's way up and didn't give the arm a chance to over center and reverse itself..when it does that, it will want to go down no matter what direction your pressing.....

and my rear drivers reg is skipping, but that might just need the rubber mallet treatment again
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2006, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by kmaysob View Post
there is a tiny temp switch inside the motor to prevent too much damage if held down. not saying it wont do damage by holding it down.
Really? I tore the old motor apart from our '83 and it didn't appear to have any thermal protection device in it...not that I saw anyways....seemed like it was just the brush assembley....the permenant magnets (wow are those powerful, I use them on the fridge! ) and the center core of the motor....

They're pretty heavily built motors though, they'd need to be held in the stall position for probably 10+ seconds to do permenant damage.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'89 420SEL 168k - mine (OC-170,000)
'93 190D 2.2 - 223k - mine (OC-222,700)
'01 E320 Wagon - 149k - mine (OC-154,000)
'05 C240 4matic Wagon - 153k - wifes (OC-154,500)
'01 E320 - 162k - Dad's (OC-163,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 116k - dad's (OC-121,500)
'02 E320 - 193k - Brother's (OC - 192,000)
'09 E350 4matic Sedan - 84k - Brothers (OC-85,500)
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2006, 01:13 AM
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Hand crank.

Did gray-market cars have crank windows? You 126 folks probably wouldn't be interested in anything manual, though, huh?

Jay.
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2006, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by babyjames View Post
Did gray-market cars have crank windows? You 126 folks probably wouldn't be interested in anything manual, though, huh?

Jay.
..........yeah, reaching over your shoulder to lower the LR window would be a PITA at 75 mph........
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  #14  
Old 08-08-2006, 02:57 PM
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It isn't about which one is better. It is about which one is in your car. They are not interchangeable. If you have Brose you must use Brose. If you have Reitter you must use Reitter. Questions like this are why all of us on line vendors have way too many returns.
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