Incompetant Mechanics - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stevo · #16 08-11-2006, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I
So, if you still cling to the theory that you are paying good money and you expect knowledgeable and precise diagnosis and repair on your M/B, you're simply deluding yourself.

LOL, I agree

I've learned enough about the 240D, to do most of my own work but the most important thing I learned is "if there is something I would'nt attempt (tranny rebuild for example) I would find somebody that knew MB trannys and would pull it and take it to him. Or if it was a valve job for example, (and I couldnt borrow the tool again) I'd take him the head. Point is, I would be doing something thats proly not his favorite part of the job.
Plus I'de be able to inspect the "whatever" before it got put back in the car.

davidh · #17 08-11-2006, 06:13 PM

what and where is this alda valve i see mentioned more than once ? hard shif on a 300d 1983, from the deep south. here in cold country maybe i need to find that seal . . .
thanks,
davidh

softconsult · #18 08-11-2006, 06:30 PM

Here is a cut and paste from my post to another list.

Subject is non-functioning mirrors on the '97 S320 I just bought.

There was a problem with the mirrors that I knew about before I bought the car. In essence, they were dead.

GM of the Mercedes Dealer assured me that the mirrors worked when they sold the car to the independent lot. I later discovered the very last Dealer invoice that listed re-gluing the console switches.

The ham handed tech that did this managed to do several things.
He smudged glue on the wood console in two places where he obviously pressed the console wood into position. He broke the plastic clip that holds the wood at the rear near the console. He did not put the screws back, because they are difficult to reach. I can see the empty holes with a mirror. And finally the classic slop job. He didn't hook up the plug to the mirror switch. I can see making the mistake, but you really would think they would at least try all the switches before pronouncing the job complete.

I got the wood out enough to see it and plug it in. Mirrors folded back and folded forward properly. All better!

I should complain to the Dealership, but like a lot of things why bother?Nothing would ever come of it.

Steve White
Johnson City, TN
'97 S320 107K
'93 E300 Sportline 252K
'92 E300 Sportline 244K
'01 Chrysler Voyager 79K
'96 Toyota Tacoma 120K

softconsult · #19 08-11-2006, 06:36 PM

Oh the other thing the Dealer did was ignore the Serpentine Belt for 67,000 miles. For all I know that belt had been on there for 107,000 miles. It was dry, and cracked every 16th of an inch. Totally ridiculous.

So much for Dealer Serviced!

Needless to say this was the first thing I took care of.

The later models of the M104 have a revised belt tensioner. All it takes to
relieve tension is a ratchet and a socket. Took about 5 minutes to get the old one off and around 10 minutes to get new one on . It's a tight fit and you have to figure out the correct pulley sequence.

Steve

networkboy · #20 08-11-2006, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

Then I find myself another shop. Firstly, I try get to know the techs and advisor and then I go there till I do, bring them pizzas and what not.

I use Beer

Last mechanic I had working on my truck (for jobs I was too lazy to do) he and his son knew when the job was done there was a 12 pack of Sam Adams on the way! Never had a better mechanic, better shop rate (only charged me 3/4 book on many jobs), or more truthful advice. Too bad someone offered him over a mil for his old shop (prime real estate), so he retired. It's an antique store now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidh

what and where is this alda valve i see mentioned more than once ? hard shif on a 300d 1983, from the deep south. here in cold country maybe i need to find that seal . . .
thanks,
davidh

Almost a verbatim ditto from me on this one

Hatterasguy · #21 08-11-2006, 07:01 PM

I have never had to bring my car into the dealer. But I have talked to the parts guys about various problems, they are usualy close or right on. I'll give them credit they may not be 603 experts but they know the W126 well enough.

Lots of MB shops lack the knowledge on these cars that we as a group seem to have. I think its simply because where they may see a diesel MB a few times a year, we deal with them every single day.

iNeon · #22 08-11-2006, 08:44 PM

I'm glad a few of you have competent dealer staff. When I was at the dealership buying injector return hose($20 for 2.5 feet!?!) I inquired about getting a jar of touch-up paint in classic white. I told him the color code was 747(it is 737) but he did not even endeavor to find out what the code was or if they had or could get it-- He told me point blank "I don't know anything about those old cars and you need to know what you want before I can get it for you."

If they weren't the *only* MB dealer in the city.. I wouldn't go back. He had a frikkin computer right in front of him! Give me 2 minutes on the internet and I could find it my damned self-- let alone a computer with complete service and parts catalogues in it already!

**rant mode off**

300SDog · #23 08-12-2006, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidh

what and where is this alda valve i see mentioned more than once ? hard shif on a 300d 1983, from the deep south. here in cold country maybe i need to find that seal . . .
thanks,
davidh

Thats a good question David, I'm wondering that too. Hopefully somebody will answer instead of yapping and crabbing about everything else.

dkveuro · #24 08-12-2006, 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

And people wonder why I watch the techs. I gather up what info I can here, bring it to them and discuss the repairs then I watch them do it. If it doesn't fix it, they have some real explaining to do. This is for when I lack the tools to make it happen.

Do you let people watch you at work and make comments on your performance ?

And those with Mercedes dealer problems ?
http://www.mbca.org/pages/Star/articles/Ulkann_Interview.pdf

.

aklim · #25 08-12-2006, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkveuro

Do you let people watch you at work and make comments on your performance ?

I think my boss did.

Jmana · #26 08-12-2006, 09:25 AM

Regarding the alda and the shaft seal that dries out causing the alda to not work: the location of the alda is above the IP, on my 87 300D it's between the rear of the ip and the intake manifold. On other models is much easier to access. You need to take the alda off to check if it's sealed up. There is a 24 mm nut on the bottom that I think needs to be turned clockwise (if I remember correctly). Once this nut is loosened, you screw off the alda from this nut. To test it, just blow into the metal nipple where the rubber hose went in. Don't hold your finger over the base where the shaft is. If you blow and air immediately escapes, you have a bad seal, which will cause very poor power (especially at low rpms) and hard shifting in low gears because it messes with the vaccuum somehow. If your seal is shot, you need to take the alda apart, which can be difficult as the 4 screws are threadlocked into place. You need to put it in a vice, find a perfect fitting phillips bit, then put that bit in a socket (I think it's 1/4 inch) so you can get more leverage by using a rachet. You will more than likely strip the head of one or more of the screws. IF that happens, just take a drill and drill right though the screw, you can use a skinny bolt and nut to put it back together. So once you get the thing apart, you will see two metal saucer looking things. The one on top that's attached to the adjustment screw can be left alone (hopefully you didn't try adjusting it to the point where the screw came out of the saucer). The saucer on the bottom is the one that has the shaft attached to it. Pull it out, and you will see a little rubber gasket on the alda housing. Take this out (likely it will fall apart), and then match this up to a proper fitting O ring. I used a metric sized o ring. Then take a little grease to lube up the shaft, and put it back in place making sure the o ring stays in place, and the shaft moves freely. Now you will need to take a LITTLE bit of gasket sealant and put it around the rubber seal that seals up the two halves of the housing . Then put the two halves together, either with the original screws, or with bolts. They don't need to be crazy tight like they originally were. Now you're ready to put the alda back on and enjoy a full powered engine! You may need to adjust the alda after performing this, especially if it was adjusted out all the way prior to fixing the seal.