soo i decided to get my 240D from my friends house, i stored it there until i got moved in to my new apartment. the battery was dead, so i had to jump it. i also noticed that my oil dip stick tube had come loose again. i had jb weld'ed it, because it would not seal to my oil pan. so i have to figure out how to fix it again. the original seals that i ordered would not seal at all. that is a problem of its own.

so i drove home and it would not turn off when i got there. i could not use the shut off lever either. it would lower the rpm, but not die. i pushed all i could, and ended up disconnecting the fuel line to get it to turn off.

so i know that i need to repair the vacuum pump, but i only have the weekends to tinker with it. i have the kit to repait it, but before it would only take long for the locks to go down.

can anyone let me know what causes the emergency shutoff not to work? is it something other than the vacuum pump?

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

How do you know it's the vacuum pump, not a vacuum leak? Do a search on vacuum leaks and you will find lots of info about tracking down leaks.

If the shut-off lever doesn't work it's probably something loose or out of adjustment in the linkage. Next time you push the lever grab the linkage and pull it a little further in the same direction. The shut-off lever has nothing to do with the vacuum, it's a separate issue.

I am still very new mb 240d owner(since the end of April), and twice in the last 10,000 when I turned off the engine (in the cab), the engine would not shut down. I then tried a couple of times and the engine did finaly shut down.

because of this web site, I came accross a couple of facts, 1- vacuum does the shut down, and 2- there is a manual shut off in the engine compartment.

But, like above, I push the manual shut off and the engine just slows down.

Q. how to adjust the linkage and/or ip so that the manual shut down works.

bob
1981 240D 180,000

The shop manuals have info on adjusting the lenghts of the throttle linkages.
http://mb.braingears.com/
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/Index/617Tindex.html
The section you will want to read is 30-300. Hope this helps.
Also check out Diesel Giants Vac Troubleshooting guide
http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_diesel_maintenance_tips.htm
Might help in tracking down vac leaks.

__________________

when i bought the 240D, the PO said that the pump needs rebuilding. there is some oil in the vacuum line and it leaks a little under the driver dash. i want to get the car to drive and turn off again, so hopefully i can just fix the turn off thing via the linkage and rebuild the pump on the weekend.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

Now, seriously, are you going to take the diagnosis of a PO without properly testing for the problem?

If so, then you won't need our advice..........correct?

If you have oil leaking into the vac line that goes to the shut off diaphram it's leaking. When you replace that diaphram plug all the other vac lines and see if it shuts off. If it does you probably dont need to rebuild your vac pump.

True...Just too add a warning, If oil gets up into your "ignition" switch you'll have a bunch more work to do, I would fix the problem ASAP. Pull the brown vacuum line from the vacuum shut off switch on the aft end of the IP and apply suction (suck on it or use a Mity Vac) while the car is running. If the car doesn't shut down the switch is tits up. If it does look for a problem with the vacuum pump.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

so that you can begine to learn and understand the various vacuum using components of your 240D. It appears clear that your IP shut-off valve has failed and thus the oil under the dash... and this same oil carries on down and eventually contaminates every vacuum line all the way to the vacuum pump.

While you are replacing the IP vacuum shut-off valve, I recommend that you put a cheap "see-through" fuel filter in this line where it is readily visible in the engine compartment. Alto put another such filter on the vacuum vent line that ends under the dash. This one is to keep dirt out of the vacuum system. Dirt plus oil means that the orifices in the Ts that split the vacuum off from the vacuum line between the pump and brake booster... these small orifices are partially obstructed [ at least one of these anyway].

I see your 240D has >700K miles but count your blessings that it is simple in comparison with the '85 300D [Calif. Model]. Everything you learn on the 240D will be helpful when you have to work on the more complicated vacuum systems of the 300D.

Think of it this way, you can learn a great deal of IMPORTANT things about how that 240D works and these guys here will be more than happy to help!
I know... they have helped me.
Sam

If you plan to replace the vacuum shut off switch on the IP, do a search here for "vacuum shut off" "run-away" "warning". Read thoroughly all of the procedures, precautions and preparations you will need to prevent serious damage to your engine.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

and to help you short through the chaff a bit, start out by using this link:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=853699
It will give you 9 THREADs that have the IP shut-off as their main subject.
Don't forget to do the same with the term "run-away" and "run away"... and make sure you understand what is happening. I just replaced my IP's shut-off valve on the 240D and yes you do have to be watchful and learn about how the valve connects internally to the IP so that you install the new shut-off valve correctly. I did not find re-connecting the new one difficult!

Sam
P.S. - This link was found by searching on "

(1) you go to ShopForum
(2) you go to the Diesel Discussion FORUM
(3) you go to "Search this Forum"
(4) you go to "Advanced Search"
(5) you put in your search term/phrase in the "Key Word(s)" box
(6) click on the "Entire Posts" box and change to "Search Titles" only
(7) go down to and click on the "Search Now" box.

And for instance with "shut off", you can go back and then try "shut-off"... and also go back and compare searching just in the title with searching the entire posts. Learning to search can be very IMPORTANT to using this MercedesShop forum's huge database of information!

Hope this helps,
Sam

When the vacuum pump died (hole in diaphragm) on my '80 300 TD, I found that the manual shutoff worked fine IF the manual idle adjust was turned all the way down. If not, it wouldn't quite shut off.

thanks for all your advice. yes i have searched the forum, and read up some stuff on the runaway problem. i had little time to search the net, because i had to show up to work at 3:30am. just wanted to know what some initial ideas could help me figure things out faster.

__________________

Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

After reading the above, I remembered reading on one of our FORUM's THREADs that you should keep ~ a 2-foot length of flexible vacuum hose because in an emergency you can connect it to the IP shut-off valve and actually suck enough vacuum to shut the engine off... that is unless the shut-off valve is so far gone that your lungs will not do the job!
Sam