ATF. It's already filtered so I don't have to pour something from a fuel can (or old filter) in there and possibly cause problems, IMO it's better than having the pump run partially empty without the lubrication of fuel while it cranks to prime, and it doesn't have to crank for a minute or two to prime (post 617 engines).

Has to be better for the engine.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I wasn't implying there was anything invalid about the ealier posts....just interested in additional opinions.

__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife

Conn,

Rubbish. I've used this same method for years on every diesel I've owned, from my 190DT which is still running strong in the hands of a relative, my current 300SDL and E300D and several friends 300SD's currently a continent away. It will harm nothing and in fact can do some good. It's more important that the filters be filled and most diesels aren't that picky about what you use so long as it's reasonable. You can use LubeMoly or other type of fuel system purge, any of the available diesel fuels (within reason), ATF (at least up to Dextron III), so long as the viscosity is not too great and the liquid is from a clean container of known quality so as to not poison the fuel system or filter (most of the fuel will end up back in the tank through the return line).

Caution is a valuable trait in all mechanical endeavours, but methinks it is pure paranoia to poo-poo 'ol ATF or the other fluids mentioned.

-bh

I have used ATF to fill the filter also, and have dumped it into the fuel tank w/o any problems. done it for years.
Everything else has been dumped into these engines, ATF is probably a good thing.

This ATF controversy has been going on at various times. this is like the oil threads, what is the best kind of oil? or oil filter.

there is a WVO thread going on now, where the guy added ATF to clean out his engine or???? interesting read, about ATF pros and cons.
run some aTF to clean the ip, car sluggish then not reving under load...Long story


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

"Rubbish" is when folks recommend a procedure that they have no viable means of evaluating for safety or effectiveness.

I keep a jug of Power Service around for filling the secondary.

__________________
1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

No means? I've torn down the engines where these procedures were used, in particular on my own cars and the motors and injection pumps were clean and the wear nominal. If that isn't the definition of effectiveness, is there another?

-BH

If you think that the addition of 8 oz ATF every 20k miles is capable of producing measurable differences in wear results, then the problem lies with a different type of effectiveness.

Fuel systems in these old MB's is designed for a diesel formulation that does not exist anymore. Lubricity from sulfur at 15ppm is a far cry from what was used in 80's and 90's. Use of ATF to fill a FF is probably providing a short term lube effect to the IP that will quickly be negated by running diesel with no additional lubricity additive. According to the Spicer report TCW3 Two stroke oil has a higher lubricity rating then ATF, IMHO probably a better choice for filling a filter then ATF (also an excellent choice as a low cost lubricity additive for fuel if Stanadyne, PS, or Bio are unvailable or deemed to expensive)
On my TDI before every 2nd OC I hook up a temporary fuel can and run engine on pure Diesel Purge (1 can) to clean the IP, also add max does of Stanadyne at every fuel fill-up.

There is a study that measured lubricity improvement from various additives. Many reduced lubricity. Several had negligible effect & are essentially worthless. Stanadyne Lubricity is one of the better products measured in lubricity enhancement and low cost. I add 1 oz/10gal in both the SD and 24V Cummins. The Cummins is more sensitive and expensive to repair.

A war of words rages over the merits or lack of adding 2-stroke oil to fuel. Regardless, it is more expensive than Stanadyne Lubricity.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I read one of those reports last month or so, about diesel lubricity. I don't remember where that thread is now but it did recommend using some kind of extra lubricant due to the lack of it in new diesel fuels. It included canola oil (SVO) which is what I add to my tank every once in a while.

__________________
[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
[SIGPIC]




1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

I believe you missed my point. While I agree that a few ounces of any concoction added intermittently to the system will make little measurable difference, the use of ATF to fill the filter after filter change is not incompatible with overall good practice and will at the very least maintain the mantra of "do no harm."

My overall care regimen is what has resulted in well kept motors and appurtenances. The use of ATF in the fuel filter has caused no ill effect and a minute bit of detergent from said fluid, while unable to clean truly mucked nozzles by itself may aid in ridding the system of gunk provided in combination with other measures.

As a proponent of the use of Biodiesel (impressive solvent and lubricating qualities), the fuel system on my cars is overall cleaner than many of my peers with otherwise identical cars and similar maintenance regimen. While the use of ATF in the fuel filter should in no way signal that it be used exclusively with each filter change or as some kind of miraculous cure all, it is an acceptable substitute for fuel oil, purge, etc.

It is the task of any reader to make their own decisions based on reading through this thread and others like it. There are genuinely destructive practices and issues with fuel quality that a diesel owner needs to be much more concerned with than whether or not ATF was added to the fuel filter during the last change.

-BH

That problem won't be solved by adding some magic brew to the fuel filter every 20k miles.

That's a pretty radical departure from your previous statement. We have gone from "the definition of effectiveness" to the presumption of doing "no harm."

A questionable practice is not transformed into a good practice because even worse options are available.