thinking of doing a standard rebuild need your input - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieseldiehard · #16 08-17-2006, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr overkill

think the work cheap came out wrong

the motor work would be done by me and the machine shop done by a shop that does all my motors for me and my custome
what i ment by cheap is that 220 is nthing really for a maintained motor so it would only need to be freshned up thats all

nope dont know yet smokessssssssss like an asss at first i thought it was a ip but now its pointing to a hg or a head (hopefully a hg)

when these heads crack how do they/where do they and are they repairable?

Whats the smoke smell like? If its oil smoke then its possible the turbo blew its bearings, ask Brian Carleton for his first hand experience w/ a 350SDL turbo and using oil!

mr overkill · #17 08-18-2006, 05:08 PM

it has a veryyyyyyyy heavy diesel smell

like i said im gonna have to weigh the options i know i can walk away with it for like 900 if it fails the coolant pressure test and it is the head then thats an easy 1,000 for a head and about 500 for parts so now im up to 2,500

i fould a few 300 sd 's but not sdl's are the sld that much more loaded ?

how do i find the casting # on the head? be nice to know it for when i look at the car again and then i can see if its the "****ty" head or not

thanks for all the advise so far

engatwork · #18 08-18-2006, 06:02 PM

The machine shop owner that I used on the last engine (617) suggested boring and going oversize which I did. I was impressed with the machine shop and the owner. For rebuilding the head, boring the block and polishing the crank the bill was right at $600. They came highly recommended by a 30+ yr MB independent.

dieseldiehard · #19 08-18-2006, 06:02 PM

as some one described the casting location:
"The casting number is on the drivers side, near the front of the engine between the first and second cylinders at the top. You will find a MB part number in the format 603 016 XX 01. The XX is the casting number"

A heavy fuel smell? I would suspect the inj pump or timing way off. Does the engine have any nailing sounds when idling?
If it smells of antifreeze that would make one not want the car, ok, well maybe it just needs a head gasket but with so many failed #14 cyl heads, that would drop the cars value pretty fast if white smoke that has that characteristic sweet smell its going to be costly.
If you have a mechanic that works for cheap (or can DIY) and a few thou$ to buy parts and if the rest of the car is really fine then its probably an investment worth thinking about.
OTOH, I have two W124s w/ #14 heads and still running strong. I did have the top end rebuilt on them though. There are still plenty of #14 N***ty heads still running at well over 300K miles.

mr overkill · #20 08-19-2006, 12:17 AM

didnt have it running more then 15 seconds cause it smokes sooooooooooooooo bad but it didnt have a sweet smell but a diesel smell

like i said im gonna go hopefully this weekend and pressurew test it and see the casting # if its the #14 head and i have no pressure then its mostlikely a cracked head

dieseldiehard · #21 08-19-2006, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr overkill

didnt have it running more then 15 seconds cause it smokes sooooooooooooooo bad but it didnt have a sweet smell but a diesel smell

like i said im gonna go hopefully this weekend and pressurew test it and see the casting # if its the #14 head and i have no pressure then its mostlikely a cracked head

Don't jump to conclusions, a pressure using a leak down test (head in place) can NOT confirm a head leak. Only that there is a leak and it will be hard to say where it is until you remove the head for a visual.
You need to have the head removed for a Head pressure check, they mount it to a flat plate with a rubber gasket around it and see if there is any leaks. Very good test of the head alone.

if when removing the head you see a visible indication of a leak in the gasket material then you still should have the head pressure checked before reinstalling it. And always have the head skim cut for flatness while its off.

I don't know why the fuel smell though, did you say there is no Nasty Trap Oxidizer on the exhaust? Lack of air would make it run rich. A plugged trap prevents the engine from breathing = rich smell and no run or run poorly. BTDT. I had a plugged trap that made the engine smoke and it would barely stay running. ALways suspect the NTO if there is one!

mr overkill · #22 08-19-2006, 09:30 PM

im not jumping into anything im just saying that if it fails the pressure test and i dont see any visual leaks then i can say ok that the head has to come off and have the head checked and at that time i can see the cond of the head gasket(look for spots of leakage)

im just saying that if it passes the pressurew test then i can point towards a ip out of time or a bad ip thats all