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#1
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Stripped engine mount screw
I futzed with the driver's side mount first and stripped the screw, it is not completely rounded-out but the 6mm allen socket won't turn it, it catches a little and then keeps going-- I did it because I used a standard bit at first because I didn't know we had metric!
How can I remedy this? Do they make a 6.5mm allen socket? Would that work? The passenger's side and the T-mount were fairly straight forward, but this driver's side mount has me up-in-arms! How do I get to the screw underneath the heat-shield on that mount? It seems well hidden! The rest of it went without a hitch and I may even attempt the rear sub-frame mount now that I've made a cheater pipe-- Boy did that make it easier!!! Pictures following-- The old mount is an original Mercedes-Benz part and I'm wondering if this shows 153k miles worth of wear? I'm still trying to figure out if the mileage is accurate-- I'm thinking the car has a bit too much blow-by to only have 153k.
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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
#2
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Remove the heat shield first, then remove the screw.
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#3
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*SO* smart!
hahahaha I never even thought of that.... But what about that roundish screw? I'd almost run out and do it now if I thought I could before dark!
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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
#4
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A 1/4" SAE allen bit should be slightly larger than a 6mm (6.35mm.) Or sometimes you can jam a Torx bit into the bolt head. Make sure the recess in the bolt head is clean and the bit bottoms out. Hammer it in if necessary.
Last edited by tangofox007; 08-18-2006 at 07:53 PM. |
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This happend to me. I took a chisel that happend to have a 3/8 inch stock and i shappend it and then ground down (bench top grinder) the sides until it was about 7mm then i duct taped it to a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and then ductaped that to a 24 inch 1/2 drive extention. this way i have one hell of a long shap chisel. i then beat it into the head of the allen bolt. atfer only about 4 smacks with the hammer i had it fermly mounted into the head of the bolt and i was able to break it loose with a 1/2 wrench turning the 1/2 inch extention. (the extention and adaper were stacked up backward. that way they wraped around the 3/8 shaft of the chisel) it took me about 3 hours of fussing and cursing at that bold to come up with this idea.
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1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
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#6
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I saw this thread and laughed only because the same thing happened to me this weekend. Luckily I got to replace the broken mount first, unfortunatly it was on the worse side, and have to remove all the manifolds on the passager side to get to it, on my 300 SD. Oh the life and times of a Diesel owner.
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#7
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I had similar problems when I did my mounts, except the stripped one was the passenger side--the one under all that manifold etc.
I tried grinding down larger hex bits, and pounding them in, I tried the same with a torx bit. I also tried to JB weld in a smaller nex bit. The method that finally worked for me was to weld in a smaller hex bit. Sort of tough to strike an arc in that confined space, but it eventually worked.
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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags |
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How do I access the drivers side rear screw and where is a good source for replacement screws?
I may scout at the u-pull-it yard, but I'd rather not scrunch underneath a car on gravel The drivers lower screw was almost stripped when I got to it, so I'm thinking it wasn't my fault the other one was stripped!! It cannot be the first time the mounts have been changed-- and they are genuine Mercedes-Benz parts-- I'm a happy boy! I must've gotten one from a good owner! I do remember the first set of filters were OE as well... even the small fuel filter!?!?
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http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg |
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