stalling after highway driving - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

annemarie · #1 08-20-2006, 10:54 AM

Need some help. After running at highway speeds in my 82 300D for a while (say, a half hour) the car has been stalling out as we slow down and exit. It takes a few cranks to get it going again, and it runs really rough as we start moving. This doesn't happen when we're going fast for shorter periods.

We did a WVO conversion but haven't been running it on oil. It's been diesel only because we haven't gotten around to actually filtering oil yet. After we did the conversion, the car lost all pickup and would decellerate at highway speeds. After we replaced the transfer pump, that issue was resolved. And now this new issue.

Any advice?

jonschwenke · #2 08-20-2006, 01:06 PM

I'd need to know the specifics of your veg setup, but it sounds like you may be sucking air from somewhere. Since you aren't running veg yet, can you run the fuel lines as close to stock as possible (bypass selector valves etc.)to eliminate the veg system na dit's installation as a culprit. Also, it may be possible your stock tank vent line is clogged causing vacuum in the diesel lines. Further it could be your stock fuel filter/s.

Good luck

JEREMYC · #3 08-20-2006, 01:30 PM

Did you mess with the rack damper bolt any? I know that if it is screwed in too far, it can cause an engine stall at deceleration and decline of rpm's. Just an idea.

annemarie · #4 08-20-2006, 10:10 PM

We noticed today that the rubber hose that runs from the transfer pump to the injector pump seems swollen. We're guessing that at high speeds it's filling with fuel and when we slow down, it's too large for the amount of fuel that's going through it, so it's sucking air. Do you think that's even a possibility? Sadly, we haven't had a heck of a lot of time to poke around, so we're kind of winging it at this point.

Oh, and the conversion is a standard Greasecar kit...for now.

Brian Carlton · #5 08-20-2006, 10:11 PM

I second the opinion on the need to back off the rack damper bolt slightly. It's probably impeding the movement of the rack when it gets quite warm.

Palangi · #6 08-20-2006, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by annemarie

We noticed today that the rubber hose that runs from the transfer pump to the injector pump seems swollen. We're guessing that at high speeds it's filling with fuel and when we slow down, it's too large for the amount of fuel that's going through it, so it's sucking air. Do you think that's even a possibility? Sadly, we haven't had a heck of a lot of time to poke around, so we're kind of winging it at this point.

Oh, and the conversion is a standard Greasecar kit...for now.

There is a hose coming off the fuel filter which is supposed to be swollen.

My guess would be that something is amiss with WVO conversion, possibly an air leak somewhere. This same story has been repeated on here many times.

annemarie · #7 08-20-2006, 11:05 PM

As usual, my ignorance has gotten the best of me. I don't know what the rack damper bolt is. Any more guidance?

I really need to get myself a shop manual.

JEREMYC · #8 08-21-2006, 10:42 AM

Do a search on rack damper bolt or rack dampner bolt. There is allot of good info on it already. It is located on the backside of the injection pump. Very small movement per adjustment is recommended. There is a post somewhere on here that has a pic of it.

annemarie · #9 08-21-2006, 09:34 PM

Thank you so much!

IndianaJo · #10 08-22-2006, 07:47 AM

Put on New rubber hoses every 15 years - this includes all the fuel system, engine compartment, and the 3 back on top of the fuel tank. Also the 3 brake hoses, very important safety point. If you want the vacuum system to work, new hoses under the dash, in the floor, in the doors.
My mercedes 240D kept clogging or water slogging the primary fuel filter, up near the engine, three of them on one trip to Colorado. This is a bad design, much better on Ford Pickups, for example. I replaced the tiny primary filter with a Goldenrod 465 - 10 Micron filter mounted in the right front of the engine compartment near the air conditioner tank. It's hung from a bed frame piece bolted to the coil spring tower. Its a one quart filter, transparant so you can see air if you are getting it, has a drain valve in the bottom to let the water out. Its such a big filter, I burn (settled, top part) used motor oil and industrial oil just by pouring it in the main tank. You buy these at the farm supply near the gas tanks and pumps, TSC or Orscherts for example. Get a filter wrench while you are there. $32 with wrench. Use metal (copper) tubing across the engine compartment, too much rubber hose is a fire hazard.