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  #1  
Old 08-20-2006, 11:57 PM
Fuzzball's Avatar
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Location: Central Texas
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Dang Vacuum Parts

Why is it these vacuum parts are only able to last about 22 years????

I've been having some issues and lately they have gotten worse (on SWMBO's 84 300D)...

First, I lost the brakes on the way home one day. Considering the brake warning light had been flickering, I guess I'm lucky it wasn't at speed when I really needed them....but at the same time, the car got finicky about shutting off and locking. SO, I knew I had a vacuum issue. before I could buy the mighty vac and use it, the problem went away (and I did a brake job!). Needless to say, she stops like a new vehicle with just a touch on the pedal.

Then in the last couple of days it went from being fine to not shutting down at all. The brakes still work ok, but the locks got slow and I had to resort to the "Stop" lever under the hood (what a pain in the hood !)

So, tonight I decided it was time to find the problem.

Checked here first, after taking the nut off with a 19mm wrench....I pulled 18 solid the entire time I was connected. (yes, that's a brand new hose, I broke the last one... ) I also take 18 pounds at the end of the two hoses coming off the valve on the main line.



Then I pulled the multi-connector off the green unit here....and I pulled 23 pounds ( ???? )



Then I tried to check the feed going to the locks and look what I went and done




but checking the vacuum off the line with the broken piece on it and I had almost nothing....

And, when I removed the rubber from the Green tube above, I had almost nuthin there too...

Check out this splice job on the line coming from my Banjo bolt:



And finally, what's missing from this part???? Seems as though I should have a connection made at that rubber hose going somewhere.



So, now I need to get that one yella valve, then start all over....

Anyone see anything glaringly wrong here? (Besides the part I broke?)

By the way, does anyone else weep diesel from this line?




Thanks for lookin!

__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

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  #2  
Old 08-21-2006, 12:34 AM
Craig
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It looks like you have a few little issues, first you need to replace the old 3-way and 4-way vacuum connectors:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41VN00Y6VJ&year=1984&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=All&part=Vacuum+Hose+Connector

You also need to replace the injector return lines that are weeping:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41VN00Y6VJ&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1984&product=E5000-103594&application=000016757

The part with the disconnected line appears to be the over-pressure valve that should be in the line between the intake manifold (banjo bolt) and the injection pump. Has yours been bypassed?
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  #3  
Old 08-23-2006, 05:17 PM
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So, is this the part that I broke?

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1R814XCQ31VP10ZU23&year=1984&make=MB&model=300-DT-001&category=O&part=Vacuum+Check+Valve
__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif
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  #4  
Old 08-23-2006, 06:06 PM
Craig
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From the photo, I thought you just broke the rubber connector, not the check valve. Did you break the nipple off the check valve? If it's the yellow one with only one connection on the engine side and two connections on the firewall side, it's the line that feeds the door locks. This appears to bee the correct one:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=1CQ0J3JZ41VP12JTNA&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1984&product=O4040-16683&application=000024045

You may want to call Phil to make sure.
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2006, 06:55 PM
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Location: Central Texas
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Thanks for your help Craig, I really appreciate it. If you look at the 3rd and 4th picture, that's where you'll see that I broke that check valve.

Dang car started "Not" stopping when the Stop lever was pushed. My wife called me in a panic that she couldn't get it to stop....

Finally got it stopped after trying for over 5 minutes...while all I could do was listen over the phone from work, 24 miles away...

Anyways...I'm gonna get this fixed or give up my tools....that's it!

Appreciate your help.
__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif
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  #6  
Old 08-23-2006, 07:17 PM
Craig
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If you temporary block the line to the broken check valve the car should shut off correctly (unless you have another leak), the only function that should be affected is the door locks.

The linkage is probably out of adjustment, preventing the stop lever from moving the IP linkage all the way to the shut-off position. If you watch the linkage when you push the stop lever, you can manually pull the linkage further in the same direction to stop the engine.
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  #7  
Old 08-24-2006, 12:47 AM
cdplayer's Avatar
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Wink cdplayer

My first Benz was 300CD. It wouldn't shut down either. And the door locks were in operable. Learned alot at the junk yard. Traced vacuum lines for miles. Found one leading to the back of the ignition lock cylinder. Bought a new lock cylinder. Problem solved. Hope this helps.
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2006, 01:25 AM
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Fuzzball,

Seems like we are having the same issues (with the exception of the brakes.) I have already ordered lots of parts and plan on getting under the hood this weekend. I'm heading to the pawn shop tomorrow and see if I can find a good deal on some vacuum gauges and such.


Thanks everyone else for their assistance as well. I just can't shake the fact that I was born a gearhead and insist on fixing my own cars. This site really makes it much more easier. Even cooler is that I can remember fixing cars and having absolutely no clue as to where to find the firing order for a small block chevy (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2......yes I have since MEMORIZED it!!!)
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  #9  
Old 08-25-2006, 02:41 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 716
Craig, I stuck a golf tee in the 4way and the car shuts down now...thanks!!

This tells me that my main problem is either that valve or the doors or reservior. Gives me something to search for.

CD, I hope I don't have to get that involved.

OSB, I hope you get your tools soon..I've had the Mighty Vac for a month and just now got to using it.

I'll have this problem fixed by Monday....cause I really need to find the AC leak in my SD!!

__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif
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