I ordered a new AC Delco a/c compressor from Performance for my '83 300D. Since I don't do a/c work I took it to an indi mechanic with a good reputation for these cars. He installed the compressor, drier, expansion valve - all purchased from Performance for a little over $300. Total cost for labor was over $700.

After 2 days the compressor quit working. The mechanic found a leak where the hoses connect to the compressor. He says the seals that came with the unit don't fit right and he spent 4 hours looking for seals that fit, to no avail. I called Performance. They said use the green and copper ones that came with it and they have had no problems with over 80 sold this year. I went by the mechanic and looked for myself. It is obvious to the naked eye that the hose fitting doesn't fit flush with the compressor with the seals in place. The mechanic thinks the indentions in the compressor are too shallow and I have to agree that's what it looks like. He has already thrown away the old one (I forgot to ask for it back) but wants to find one to compare with.

Anyone seen this problem before? If the compressor is the fault I guess Performance will exchange it. The cost of labor is the thing. I guess I'm out another wad of $$ for re-install. Should I expect the mechanic to charge for the time they spent figuring out the problem? I have to admit that seems fair but what a POS. Any advice would be welcome.

This sort of thing is exactly why I like to work on my own car when I can. I'm not a mechanic but I do charge my clients by the hour so I can sympathize with the mechanics. I guess I should have let the mechanic supply the compressor rather than buying it myself. I don't think I saved much on the unit. They threw the drier and expansion valve in for free but that bargain is going to cost me plenty.

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1983 300D 308,000 mi (Daily driver).

Should have bought your compressor here from Fastlane

Fastlane has this information posted for your compressor:

Note: GM radial R-4 version
Compressors having stepped ports require the the following seals be installed in the following manner : The large brass seal is only for the suction port. The green seal is to be used on the discharge port. The short(er) of the two sleeves is to be used in conjunction with the green seal. This centers the seal, which is essential to prevent leakage. The two other seals in the kit are not applicable for Mercedes. These seals will only be used in compressors having a stepped port configuration. See 24 342

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I shopped here first. Always do. Better deal appeared to be at Performance. That being said, I think I should have bought it from the mechanic.

The mechanic showed me that info on seal usage. But he couldn't use the sleeve because the fitting on the hoses has a sleeve already connected to it. ???

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1983 300D 308,000 mi (Daily driver).

It is standard operating procedure for smart professionals to check for leaks not just by pulling a vacuum...but by putting the system under pressure with nitrogen/( and a few ounces of R22) because a seal can hold in one condition ... but if any seal movement is allowed not seal in the other condition.
This is approved procedure by the EPA since it makes more sense to lose a few ounces of R22 making sure the system is not leaking...than wind up in the position you find yourself.
The original MB AC manual shows regular orings for that Delco... but it appears that GM used other arrangements later making the Delco (stepped ?)... and that has been discussed lately here on this forum...
Check Aircondition.com for more specifics concerning pressurizing for testing.

The original compressors seaaled with regular o-rings; the hose manifold made contact with the compressor. That is not the case with the newer type seals. The seals are thicker than the recesses in the compressor. There should be about a 1mm gap between the hose manifold and the flange on the compressor.
If the gap is even on both the suction and discharge ports, it is likely that you have the correct seals and the problem is caused by something else, like a warped hose manifold or improper torque on the bolt. Or contamination of the ports and/or seals.

Don't be too quick to point the finger at the parts supplier. I am fairly certain that any new compressor that the mechanic would have obtained would have been the same as the one that you supplied. It's always easy for shop to blame owner-supplied parts, whether they are really at fault or not.

Another possible issue with the newer compressor confuguration is that the hose manifold is positioned slightly more rearward than it was with the original compressor. This can cause the manifold to tilt slightly and prevent a good seal, especially if the bracket on the manifold is not shimmed to account for the slight difference in position.

The mechanic just called. He found a green seal that is slightly thinner than the one supplied. He's drawing a vacuum now and will get it back to me tomorrow if all goes well. Keeping my fingers crossed.

He didn't mention $$ but I think I'm going to pay dearly for a GD FU seal. I wonder if he reads this forum?

Thanks for the replies.
Mark

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1983 300D 308,000 mi (Daily driver).

With the correct seals the hose flange will not be flat against the compressor. You should be able to see the edge of the seals between the flange and the compressor.

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Jim

I don't mean to blame Performance, by the law of averages some parts are going to be bad. My point is that if I had bought the parts from the mechanic it would be his problem, not mine.

I didn't mention that the old compressor wasn't the original part. The P.O. put a rebuilt one from NAPA on in 1997. He paid $100 for it and got 7 yrs of good use. I say 7 yrs because I've had a leak for 2 yrs before the thing went out. I just kept putting R-134 in it. He knocked $1K off when I bought the car for the bad compressor. I'm paying that now.

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1983 300D 308,000 mi (Daily driver).

Sounds like you got hitwith the stepped port compressor. The re-man I bought from O'reilly's was flat. The brand new ones have the stepped port.

I hope it works out for you!

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RRGrassi


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Tangofox007 said that too. The mechanic showed me the fitting and the problem was that it was thicker on one side than the other. I thought he meant that it needed to be flush but I might have misunderstood. I'll check on that. Thanks for that info.

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1983 300D 308,000 mi (Daily driver).

The seals are going to be thicker on one side versus the other but when the correct seals are used the flange should be parallel with the back of the compressor. If memory serves me correctly you use the green one and the gold looking one. You don't use the red one.

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Jim

The discharge port is 4mm deep; the green seal is 5.5mm thick. The suction port is 1.5mm deep; the gold (yellow) seal is 3.0mm thick. The difference between the seal thickness and port depth should be 1.5mm. If the wrong combination of seals is used, the "delta" will not be the same on both ports and a poor seal is guaranteed. Unfortunately, using the correct seals does not necessarily guarantee a good seal.