81 300d how to tell true milage???
 

81 300d 135k miles on odometer and carfax only goes back to 82...any suggestions before I make any offers

Mileage is not really a key, deciding factor on these 500K+ bad boys. Check the actual condition of components. I would be more concerned with service records. Good luck. BTW..Low mileage is also not a good indicator of a well taken care of vehicle.

thanks for the reply. I don't think anyone kept up with the records on the vehicle. it's got the common problems like:
a/c doesn't work
center vents no work
drivers window motor runs but no action
shifts odd in second but might be vac prob or slipping?????
paint is ok not excellent.
door locks are inop also vac prob

I just thought the low miles might be a nice car (sleeper) for what it is

Yep, sounds like a W123. Drivers window is broke because the ACC doesn't work. I see lots of W123's here in Florida and 80% are driving with windows down because of the ACC system in these cars. All things can be fixed, however. Just depends on how much you love that car.

If you decide not to purchase it I may I may be interested.

I will let you know if I decide not to buy. My biggest concern is that the tranny shifts odd in 2nd gear. revs high like it is slipping. but like everything else could be something simple like vac syst.

Indicators of accumulated milage in my experience. No seat wear should be evident until 200 k in my opinion. Factory oil change booklet should still be in dash at 135 K. Engine should be fairly tight still but does depend how much the car was flogged to some extent at 135k. Generally speaking one is better off to buy a fairly good example initially if it can be found. Nothing like having a good pre purchase inspection done by someone really knowledgeable with 123 diesel cars. In my opinion only about 25 percent of the older 123s I see have perhaps the valid milage displayed on their odometers. May be even less in reality. With so many things obviously wrong with the car you are describing I would be very careful or pay very very little for it.Remember also it is a non turbo so resale is lower than turbo varients I believe. Past owner or owners obviously cared little about it. You found too many issues initially and there may be a lot more hidden. Buyer beware is not an archaic expression. These cars come with the famous curb and gutter warranty. Once you purchase and drive over it the cost of repairs and everything is yours. :D Patience is required to find what you really want sometimes. You live in Atlanta so even getting the air conditioning up might be expensive. Not negative just reality in some cases. Nothing replaces having a good look at the car personally if really familar with this model. Cannot be done in a printed format. Never forget there are an abundance of cars out there. Not a lot of really good ones but they also are out there as well. Just my two cents worth.

hey thanks for the info. btw is $700 bucks ok for a ride like this....??

My information was subjective of course. So much depends on your scrounging ability and doing the work yourself. If it was a genuine 135 k mile car it might be worth it. That car needs a really comprehensive look at to decide in my opinion. For the transmisson problem I would consider a replacement might be required. If it was something simple just consider it a bonus. The window problems can be dealt with quite cheaply with salvage parts. The air and climate control problems might be expensive or might not as well. Again count on the worst. If repair is fairly cheap another bonus for you. At 700.00 you still want to get an accurate feel of what you are getting into. Again just my opinions and I have not seen the car or driven it so they could be all out in left field so to speak. .

thanks for the input anyhow....not sure what I am going to do just yet.
when I drove the car it seems like it would get you around just fine...however, who knows how long it would be before this potential prob would need addressing...

A car with a lot of problems is no bargain even if free. The second gear flare may actually be the biggest sign of a serious (= expensive) problem.

If you have the time and skill to repair all of the problems, known and unknown (or are willing to learn), it might be a good deal. To have the work done professionally will probably cost more than it would cost to buy a car without the problems.

Jeremy