Torque for W210 Front Caliper Bolts? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

deltajetfixer · #1 08-25-2006, 05:56 PM

Can someone with a copy of WIS please verify that the front caliper bolts are torqued to 115Nm?

Thanks!

aklim · #2 08-25-2006, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deltajetfixer

Can someone with a copy of WIS please verify that the front caliper bolts are torqued to 115Nm?

Thanks!

AFAIK or can see from WIS, it is 115 NM. $39.95 plus tax please.

deltajetfixer · #3 08-25-2006, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

AFAIK or can see from WIS, it is 115 NM. $39.95 plus tax please.

Thanks. I'll start consolidating my pennies.
I'm hoping to get ALL the pads and the two front rotors replaced this weekend. I'm trying ATE Super Blue for the new fluid. Sounds like it's gonna be a purty color blue.

nhdoc · #4 08-25-2006, 09:35 PM

It's a very straightforward job on these...much easier than on the W123 in that you don't have to take the hub off the spindle, just pull the caliper off and remove the hex bolt holding the rotor to the hub and "tap" with a mallet to break free the rust. Wire brush the hub before fitting the new rotor so it will seat right. We did both sides in about 90 minutes on my '98. I opened the bleeder when I squeezed the piston back into the caliper to prevent backwashing the fluid into the system, then, when it was all done I sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir and refilled with fresh and vacuum bled all 4 wheels to flush out the old fluid completely to finish up the job and be set for another 2 years.

deltajetfixer · #5 08-25-2006, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc

I opened the bleeder when I squeezed the piston back into the caliper to prevent backwashing the fluid into the system.

That's a good idea. I've never done that at the bleeder but will try it when I tackle mine.

aklim · #6 08-25-2006, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deltajetfixer

That's a good idea. I've never done that at the bleeder but will try it when I tackle mine.

I always do that. Also, if the bleeder doesn't come loose, try the heat wrench. Use a 6 point socket not a wrench or you might round off the bleeder. Ask me how I know. If the heat wrench doesn't work, heat again. Then melt some candle wax onto the threads. Seems to work.

nhdoc · #7 08-25-2006, 10:43 PM

Opening the bleeder when squeezing back the piston is recommended for all cars with ABS. You don't want any contamination that may have accumulated in the caliper to flush back into that ABS pump! My '98 has a spotless braking system thanks to the deligent dealer maintenance of its PO, but some cars will have several years of stuff in there and the caliper is the low point where it all accumulates.