I just heard from the shop that my '81 300TD is suffering from blow by. I haven't heard yet what that means to me and my baby, though. If it were a 1965 Vespa, I'd know exactly what it means, rebore, rings, and first oversize piston and a couple hours of work. What does it mean for a 1981 300TD?

Thanks.

Mike

All of us suffer from blowby to some degree.

In reality, there is nothing you can do about it short of rebuilding the engine...........so..........why be concerned?

If it gets to the point where the compression has dropped significantly and the engine won't start cold........then you've got some decisions to make.

Search the forum for "blow by". Lots of discussion in the past. Bascially just keep going till it won't go anymore is my approach. My 240D has some, what I guage as moderate, but there is really nothing to do but drive it and then rebuild it when it won't go anymore.

Just keep up the with oil and maint. Some reports here of many happy miles with know blow by, including mine. Mine is still starting well, even in colder temps. so I've decided not to worry about it.

Good luck,

Clay

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2002 E320 Sedan 93K Designo Mocha Black Metallic!
1995 E320 Wagon 205K Black Wagon
1982 240D 183K SloPoke

I believe each of these cars are the final production year for that model.

It sounds like mine is pretty knackered. It starts fine when it's cold, but doesn't idle well till it's warmed up. It hesitates quite a bit from a stop too.

Mike

ALL piston engines have blow-by. Even 2007 model engines with 2 miles.

Unless it runs really bad or is difficult to start (After the glowplugs are checked and the fuel system is good) keep driving.

If you loosen your oil filler cap with your wagon running and let it just sit over the hole, you can get an idea how far along you are in the wonderful world of 616/617 blowby.
*If it just sits there, you have very little.
*If it just tea-kettles alittle bit, than you have moderate blowby, but can still probably run well and cold start.
*If it poofs the oil cap off of the valve cover, than you have crested the hill, and are rolling down the back side, picking up speed.........

My wagon tea-kettles the cap with pretty good vigor, buy it starts very easily, runs perfectly, and uses no oil at all.
Like others have said, drive it until it doesn't function correctly.
I'm guessing the shop has checked your glow plugs, adjusted your valves, verified timing chain stretch, and timed your IP. Those are the responsible steps to take before saying the engine has too much blowby and needs major intervention......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

one of mine blows it right off instantly. it never had a block heater- in the wintertime I just used thinner oil and it started fine. I added the inline heater hose version this past season and kept right on with the 15w-40 through the cold.

Basically do what everyone suggested, drive it till its done, then replace the motor ( cause its cheaper than rebuilding!) and keep on going

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

My car has had the same amount of blowby (cap will move around slightly when engine is warm, doesn't really hop or anything) for the past 40k that I've had/driven it, and it starts fine down to subzero temps in the winter, without a heater, even better with one. I use 15w40 rotella oil year round, and never have a problem. If my engine keeps up its track record it should hit and surpass 300k no problem.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

That sounds good to me. How much should I expect to pay for a replacement motor? Where do I get one? How much to get it installed?

Thanks.

Mike

as what I do, check out junkyards and do the oil cap test on one there (most wont have keys so unplug the shutoff valve vacuum line, jump the glow relay for a few secs then jump the starter to fire it up) I'l bring the car home and pull the motor myself usually then let them have the carcass back later so no title is needed if none is present.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Your best source is to watch local public car auctions and Craigs List cars section for wrecked 300TD's. As long as they were not rolled or run head-on into a wall, wrecks are a great source for a good running engine and a cheap parts car at the same time.

The average price I've seen for a running junkyard engine is $400-800 depending on what it comes with (Turbo, manifolds, alternator, injection pump, etc.).

Also note that you have a 300TD. If you do want to replace the engine with a used one, it must be from a 300TD. It's got a cast-in mount for the suspension pump that the other diesel models (300D, 300CD, 300SD) do not have. You can see that pump mount in the upper right of the picture.

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Good question, you will really need to decide what you want when the time comes. As others have said, you can buy a junk engine for around $500, and you will get whatever you get. If you are going to pay someone to install it, you are taking a bit of a risk. Also, it will be harder to find a TD engine than a D engine.

You can buy a good reman engine for around $6K (plus labor), or a cheaper reman for around $4K. Also, you can have your engine rebuilt. How long are you planning on keeping the car?

Especially ones with two miles. It takes a while for piston rings to seat.

actually it sounds like you may have glow plug issues.

rough running that clears up after a minute or two accompanied by bluish smoke is usually a dead glow plug or two.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Forever ... I had my Subaru wagon for 10 years and 165k miles, my Prius has 100k+, and our 1995 Suburban has 170k.

Mike