I need a new fan clutch for my 92 300D 2.5 W124 with a 602.

From what I am reading here, I can use a 606 fan clutch and it will bolt straight onto the metal fan from the 602?

So all I need is the fan clutch, right? possibly the bolts? Are they different or just difficult?

Thanks.

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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles

huh? The thread says you need a 606 clutch and plastic fan. I don't see anything that says the 606 clutch works with the old metal fan. Someone mentioned an M103 clutch with a metal fan, but I think you might need to be careful about which M103 clutch you'd buy.

If the bearing is OK, you could just re-fill your existing clutch with silicone fluid. Takes more time but it's much cheaper.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

Yes, my bad.Shows how confused I am...

To clarify - I have a 602 that needs a fan clutch and wanted to know if the 606 fan clutch (98-99 E300D) is a drop in replacement if I keep the old aluminum 602 fan?

But I am all ears on the silicon replacement theory - I haven't heard that before. Can you tell me more, or tell me where to read up on it? thanks.

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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles

Using the search feature I found a list of things undersilicone including several on the subj of Breast Implants but here's one example of what you want to read about:
Viscous fan clutch - rebuild

the darned Viscous Thermoclutch can be critical to proper cooling especially when using AC so I don't mess with them really and replace them.
I even had a replacement go out less than 18 months afterwards Grrr

As for drop in, I doubt the plastic fan will work with the old clutch, better plan on replacing both items as a set. I plan on doing this on one of my 603's sometime (meanwhile the old fan and clutch are still working fine) besides I don't have working AC because the condensor is out of the car so it really gets a good charge of cooling air and runs cool all the time

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

Refilling worked fine on two M103 clutches for me - details are here:

http://***************/forum/showthread.php?t=806

You are right, clutch operation is critical, but a failed (empty) clutch is doing almost nothing. Overfilling the clutch will just make it engaged more than it should be. I got it right on my second try. The first time I put a little too much fluid in. I'm assuming he's trying to save some $$$ here, otherwise he'd just go buy a new OM602 clutch to begin with.

I talked to Phil 4 days ago and got my 606 upgrade stuff today, I'm doing the same.
BUT Does anyone know if the engage and disengage temps and RPMs for the 606 upgrade parts are compatible with the 603 engine/radiator combination??

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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine)
Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi!

I'm pretty sure the 603/606 items are compatible. I would not be so sure about the M103 clutch, which is used on an engine that spins past 6000... it may still be coupled at 4k, which you don't really want on a low-revving diesel.

For the record, I use the correct clutch for my 603 engine, per the EPC...

When my shroud came loose on a long drive once, my metal fan shredded it to pieces, and the fan was unscathed and continued to work....I doubt a plastic one would have survived. I like my metal fan.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
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'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I've had the M103 one for the longest, can't comment about it unlocking but I have no overheating issues which is nice. I paid only $30 new for it on clearance so I have no complains... this was also before I knew the 606 ones would work on the 603.

Oh well.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Nice upgrade! Much better then $300 for a 603 clutch/fan. When I replace mine I'll probably go that route.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

No cooling problems with that combo in the 93 SD. Seems to me that the fan is on rare occassions locked at cooler temps than I'd expect. Cooler ambient and gauge temps, that is. That or there's some other noise from under the hood that sounds like a fan. Could be the electric fans but I believe I've heard the sound with AC off. I didn't hear the sound with the old combo.

I reused the bolts that attached the old plastic 9-blade fan to the old 603 clutch. Maybe you only need new bolts with the tighter 603.961?

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

I've been planning on doing the upgrade on my '87 603 sometime but no fan yet (I snagged a new 606 viscous clutch on eBay for $20)
The bolts are different from the metal fans that came on the 603's that is where you'll need new bolts I presume the metal fan is thicker but haven't seen one yeet. I got the bolts at the dealer if anyone needs the p/n's let me know
Incidentally, I noticed in the heatwave we had yesterday (Sixto, we call these 85+ deg days a heatwave in the Bay Area, right?) anyhow my fan clutch was engaging because I could hear it, normally at lower temps I never hear the fan engaged, you have to be attuned to hear the roaring sound it makes. I should have pulled over stopped the engine and checked how the fan felt turning it by hand. Maybe I'll do that next time.
I did observe my temp gauge stuck on about 90C, no matter how hard I drove even in some stop 'n go traffic it didn't climb like my other 603 with A/C. This I am sure is due to not having a condenser installed ahead of the radiator, its a straight shot for maximum air flow and no A/C to throw heat back on things.
Its amazing how cool these diesels run without all that stuff (I'm sure the new Behr radiator helps).

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

I don't know where you were enjoying 85*F yesterday. The outside temp gauge of the SD registered 96*F when I got in the car after work and dropped to 94*F by the time I got home. Engine temp gauge went a tick above 90*C sitting in traffic. It used to go over 100*C in traffic with the 9-blade fan, limp clutch, green coolant and 3.5 with bent rods. Does a WVO blend play a role in cooler idling?

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

A good clutch should keep it in the normal 90-100°C range. The fuel used (VO, etc) should not affect engine temps at all.

I respectfully disagree. If you fill your fuel tank with water, the engine will not overheat.
;~)

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