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  #46  
Old 09-06-2007, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
Resurrecting this old thread rather than starting a new one. Am SERIOUSLY planning to do this to my 603 if it will work, my clutch is shot again.
Your clutch is shot "again"? How old is it? Make sure you don't have other issues (t-stat, radiator, etc) because if there's not hot air flowing to the face of the clutch, even a NEW clutch won't engage. Just make sure your clutch is truly bad before replacing it...



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  #47  
Old 09-06-2007, 12:43 PM
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The one that came with the car was bad, so we put a new one in. It worked for a while. That's the one that's in it now. I actually had something to do with the failure of this one, I think... remember when I bumped the white oak in January trying to get to school? We drove it home from that one to start fixing things, and didn't notice until we got there that a fan blade had just hooked in the radiator enough to prevent its movement. I think I roasted my own clutch doing that and we're just now realizing that it's truly dead. It definitely freewheels when the engine compartment is hot enough to lock it up.

We bought a replacement (unfortunately from somewhere else) that turned out to be defective from the moment we bolted it up to the car... still waiting to see if that refund works out. it was brand new... planning to wait on that issue to be settled and then buy the 606 parts (prob. from here) and stick them in and hope it works.
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  #48  
Old 09-06-2007, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
We bought a replacement (unfortunately from somewhere else) that turned out to be defective from the moment we bolted it up to the car... still waiting to see if that refund works out. it was brand new... planning to wait on that issue to be settled and then buy the 606 parts (prob. from here) and stick them in and hope it works.
Again, the probability of a brand new clutch being defective is pretty slim. My sister's car ('87 300D) has an issue right now where the fan clutch won't engage, even with engine temps at 110°C, plenty hot - right? I swapped the clutch with another one (known good, from my parts car) and that one didn't engage either. Well, checking things with an IR thermometer showed that although the engine is boiling hot, the hot coolant isn't getting to the upper radiator hose. We're suspecting a faulty t-stat (on order, due today) preventing proper flow - that will be changed first. Next up is the radiator. Like I said, the air temp hitting the front of the clutch has to be HOT before it will engage...

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  #49  
Old 09-06-2007, 04:45 PM
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Upper hose almost burns you to touch it, as does the top plastic bit of the radiator. Hot coolant is definitely getting everywhere.
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  #50  
Old 09-06-2007, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bustedbenz View Post
Upper hose almost burns you to touch it, as does the top plastic bit of the radiator. Hot coolant is definitely getting everywhere.
OK, that's good... but how hot is the radiator directly in front of the clutch? And, have you blown out the radiator AND condenser fins with either compressed air, or water?

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  #51  
Old 03-09-2008, 03:11 AM
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I replaced the fan and clutch on my 87 300TD with an 11-blade combo I found at the junk yard. They work great and cost me a few bucks and an hour and a half searching the yard and pulling what I needed. That allen bolt is a pain to get out though! Since the heads in these cars are prone to cracking when overheated (mine did with the previous owner), is there anything else we can do to keep the engine cool? Anybody install a temp activated buzzer?
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  #52  
Old 03-09-2008, 04:50 AM
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I just did the very late m606 water pump (larger diameter impeller - metal) but that requires a late housing (you must buy OE) and then machine and tap a few holes.
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Current Stable:
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Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #53  
Old 03-09-2008, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 300TODD View Post
I replaced the fan and clutch on my 87 300TD with an 11-blade combo I found at the junk yard. They work great and cost me a few bucks and an hour and a half searching the yard and pulling what I needed. That allen bolt is a pain to get out though! Since the heads in these cars are prone to cracking when overheated (mine did with the previous owner), is there anything else we can do to keep the engine cool? Anybody install a temp activated buzzer?
I never installed a buzzer, but I have considered trying to set up an idiot light in the dash (there's a space next to the glow light), that would trigger with the high-speed electric fan at 105°C. Usually I just keep an eye on the temps when it's really hot outside, or when climbing a long grade. These cars should normally remain under 100°C when the cooling system is perfect.

The radiators tend to get corroded internally (not visible), which reduces thermal transfer. I had a dealer radiator only last 5 years before temps skyrocketed, after changing everything else with no results, a new radiator dropped temps from 110°C down to 90°C in Sacramento summer heat. Go figure. Make sure the radiator & condenser fins are clean (blow out with compressed air and water, from back to front) and also pull the electric fan to clean out the crud behind it. Anything that impedes airflow will hurt, and can also prevent the fan clutch from engaging.

The plastic coolant reservoir tank should be replaced if it's original. There is an updated tank which has a silica pack inside, which helps control the corrosion. The new tank is about $50 wholesale, part # 124-500-18-49.

Side note... if you haven't yet read my 1987 300D/TD "buyer's guide" (sorry if this is a duplicate post), you might want to check it out - it's at this link:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt

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  #54  
Old 03-09-2008, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
I never installed a buzzer, but I have considered trying to set up an idiot light in the dash (there's a space next to the glow light), that would trigger with the high-speed electric fan at 105°C. Usually I just keep an eye on the temps when it's really hot outside, or when climbing a long grade. These cars should normally remain under 100°C when the cooling system is perfect.
You should be watching your gauges at least once every minute. I installed a relay with a switch for the aux. fan and I just turn that on when it gets above 100 °C

Cool buyers guide.
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Current Stable:
1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey.

Former Mercedes in the Stable:
1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now)
1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold
1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold
1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold
1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold
1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020)
1992 500E 156k mi sold
etc.
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  #55  
Old 06-09-2008, 04:23 PM
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clairification

The fan clutch for the OM602.911 and OM603.91 is P/N 603 200 00 22 The bimetal spring is silver grey with a silver colored sticker.

The fan clutch for the OM602.96 and OM603.96 is P/N 603 200 04 22 The bimetal spring is metal-colored with a red imprinted part number.

The OM602/3.911 are non-turbo motors, anyone Know how the non-turbo fan clutch would hold up on a turbo motor?


Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguirjf View Post
Latest Results...

Fan Clutch P/N 603 20 00 022 listed for 95-97 E300D

Fan Clutch P/N 606 20 00 122 listed for 98-99 E300D turbo

Fan and Fan Clutch Assy P/N 603 20 00 422 listed for 90 300D

Fan Clutch P/N 603 20 00 022 must be required for the 90 300D

Anyone know why the change from a metal fan to a plastic fan?

Is there a service bulletin someone can provide?
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Last edited by pmari; 06-09-2008 at 06:49 PM.
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  #56  
Old 06-21-2008, 09:29 PM
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Keeping a fan clutch upright during shipping?

I'm thinking about putting the 606 fan and clutch on my 603. Having both cars side by side in my garage makes it easy to compare; the 603 has about half an inch less clearance between the fan blade and the radiator (1-1/4" vs. 1-3/4") than the 606 but the 606 plastic fan should not flex so much as to hit the 603 radiator.

One question about buying a new fan clutch: the manuals and threads here all say that when you take the fan and clutch off of your engine, you should store it standing up, that if you lay it down the silicone will drain out. How does this apply (or not) to buying a new clutch and having it shipped in from East Wherever? Clearly, the box may end up in any orientation during shipping. Yet no one reports having a problem. Am I missing something?

Jeremy
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Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
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  #57  
Old 06-22-2008, 01:51 PM
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Does anybody know if this type of water pump,

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=2E70WNSVV2EE0TH1G1&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1984&product=G3000-95807&application=000383042

can be a drop in fit to a 617 engine and will a 606 fan clutch with an 11-blade plastic fan blade fits on tha european water pump above?

I would love to upgrade the cooling system of '85 300D Turbo W123 with 617 engine to be equipped with a clutch and fan blade of a W210.

The link above is a european water pump that I found at the Buy Parts button, Fastlane.
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  #58  
Old 06-23-2008, 06:40 PM
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I read the same thing in the manual about storing the fan clutch standing up, mine came from buymbparts packed in a box standing up.
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  #59  
Old 07-03-2008, 07:14 PM
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You get what you pay for.

OK, so my new fan clutch arrived in a box lying down. Some of the silicone had leaked but not a lot, by the look of the stain on the box. Hopefully it will work. It was an eBay cheapo, probably made in China, no part numbers or made-in-wherever marked on it.

The 603 engine in the 124 chassis has about half an inch less clearance to the radiator than the 606 engine in the 210 chassis but I don't think there will be a problem.

The screws that attach the plastic fan to the 606 clutch are M6x1.0 Allen-head cap screws about half an inch long (12-13mm). I'll probably use a little blue Loc-tite on the screws, wouldn't want them to come off.

I notice that the 606 fan has "polarity" -- the fan blades are closer to one side of the hub. That closer side goes towards the engine so that the nasty blades stay a bit farther from the radiator. The order is fan blade, then clutch, then water pump.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #60  
Old 07-03-2008, 07:31 PM
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Thumbs up

Be careful with them, I got a "Behr" for my 560... turned out it's made in you know where and is stuck fully locked.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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