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  #1  
Old 08-31-2006, 08:55 AM
speedy82's Avatar
Raccoons killed a Honda
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 130
Question Need link to replace brake booster

Mornin' all,
If someone has the link, would you please send it my way? I need to replace the brake booster on Mr. Speedy. Much appreciated.
maria

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1980 300SD (Mr. Sparkles), 1976 450SEL, 1982 300D turbo, 1989 VW Cabriolet morphing into a td cabriolet , 1997 TDI Passat, 1996 piece of Jeep,1993 F150, 1990 F250 7.3L...i think that's it, for now.
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:06 AM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: W. WI
Posts: 307
I have not done this repair, but in reading other posts the 4 bolts under the dash are fun to get at.
Before you remove the booster, verify the 'o' ring between the MC and booster. You do not have to remove the brake lines to do this, just take care and pull the MC away from the booster.
Also look in the booster & verify if there is any brake fluid in the booster.
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  #3  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:31 AM
Craig
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Does this link help?

http://mb.braingears.com/123_DISK2/program/Chassis/43-350.pdf
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  #4  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:48 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
You don't specify which chassis. I have done both- the W123 is just a warm-up for the W116.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #5  
Old 09-01-2006, 12:03 PM
speedy82's Avatar
Raccoons killed a Honda
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 130
Smile Need to replace brake booster

I had tried to get into the skinnerbox but could not and was getting discouraged. Craig: Kisses for the link!
I have both chassis W123 & a W116. I am doing the work on a W123 this Labor Day weekend. Should be fun. Thanks again to everyone for the advise. I will indeed check for spilt brake fluid in the booster. Honestly, I would not be surprised. Speedy has never had the most stellar brakes. Fortunately with living in the farmlands...who needs brakes anyway?
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1980 300SD (Mr. Sparkles), 1976 450SEL, 1982 300D turbo, 1989 VW Cabriolet morphing into a td cabriolet , 1997 TDI Passat, 1996 piece of Jeep,1993 F150, 1990 F250 7.3L...i think that's it, for now.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2006, 01:23 PM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
Posts: 3,069
Maria-

Sorry , I guess you did specify the "Mr Speedy" chassis....

My advice on the W123: get a number of those 1/4" wobbler socket extensions. Two of the four nuts under the dash that hold the booster to the brake bracket are near impossible without them on a teenie 1/4" drive on a skinny 13mm socket. If you are a petite woman maybe it won't be so hard to fit in there- otherwise consider removing the driver's seat.

You probably can remove the booster on the W123 without taking the lines off the master cylinder, but be careful not to kink the lines. Let us know how you made out.

Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2006, 01:41 PM
Surf-n-Turf
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Hey Speedy, are you absolutely sure the problem is the booster? I had a problem with the brakes on my 240D which I thought for sure was the booster. I replaced the calipers and bled the brakes before I tackled the booster and I'm glad I did. It solved the problem. I went from no brakes to awsome brakes that easily. Also make sure when you fill the resorvoir with fluid, you fill it to the top. On mine, it wouldn't fill the front chamber unless you basically overfilled it. But that might just be the case in my '81 W123.

Also, I'm thinking that if the o-ring between the master cylinder and the booster is bad. You would have other vacuum related problems. Such as not being able to turn the car off with the key. I also agree with rs899, those booster nuts under the dash are a bear to get to. Good Luck.
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2006, 02:32 PM
speedy82's Avatar
Raccoons killed a Honda
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ottawa, Illinois
Posts: 130
Need link to replace brake booster

I am not absolutely sure but I have my suspicions on the brake booster or at least the integrity of the o-ring. There had been leakage from the m/c because the underside of the m/c placement on down to the bottom edge of the booster has a stream of rust. I have the intention of replacing the m/c primarily as I did an emergency brake master cylinder transplant from Bleutus, my other W123 last weekend. He wants his m/c back. The brakeage did improve but nothing to clap about. I do have brakes (although not much assist) and I did pump the brakes before killing the engine (to quickly test the vaccuum issue). The engine dieseled for nearly 2 seconds before shutting off. The reservoir is full for both channels and the lines are good. I requested the link to have the instruction just-in-case. If by inspecting the booster for fluid, replacing the m/c, flushing the system (again) does not improve my brake situation, I will look more into the caliper situation. I went into the braingears site but was not able to get into any of the actual instructuals on calipers. If by this weekend I have not narrowed it down further, I will take the car to my mechanic. At least for this long weekend, I will have the time & the daylight to be able to focus on what is going on with my brakes adn to do an inch by inch inspection. And yes, I am very small but freakishly strong Thanks again to all for all the advise.

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1980 300SD (Mr. Sparkles), 1976 450SEL, 1982 300D turbo, 1989 VW Cabriolet morphing into a td cabriolet , 1997 TDI Passat, 1996 piece of Jeep,1993 F150, 1990 F250 7.3L...i think that's it, for now.
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